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longrowe

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Everything posted by longrowe

  1. Yours isn't in too bad of shape. Mine completely crumbled when I removed the nut. The part numbers above are correct. I just replaced all four of mine, both front and rear
  2. Luckily my car is a 996 not a 993. But I will keep that in mind. I noticed when you turn the key, the fuel pump does pulse momentarily. So this morning I turned the key on then off a couple times before starting. The car started normally. So my guess is that the fuel pressure is bleeding off. Now to check to see if it is the fuel pump or the regulator.
  3. I have ordered a fuel pressure tester. Unfortunately, tool stores are not that prevalent in Bahrain so it will be a week or so to arrive. I did jumper the fuel relay and the fuel pump does spin up, so that is encouraging. If the pressure is bleeding off, does that mean a fuel pump replacement or is there a check valve elsewhere in the system?
  4. Hello. I have a 1998 C2 ROW TIP Coupe. Just lately (past week or so) my car is taking a while to fire up. Like 5-6 seconds whereas it used to start almost instantly. This is only on the first cold start (morning or having sat at work all day). Once it starts, if I turn the key off and re-start, it fires up immediately. Sitting at a gas station, fires up immediately. Only when it sits for a long period will it have a long cranking time. I hooked up the durametric and there is only one fault, in the transmission, P0740 "Solenoid valve torque converter clutch". The car only has about 50,000 miles but everything on the engine/drivetrain seems original. I cannot see in the history where the coils had been changed. I had a major service done when I purchased it since there was a significant gap in the maintenance history. That was 1500 miles ago and the plugs were changed at that time along with the other "major service" items. Other than the hard cold start, it runs flawlessly. Any idea where to start looking? Could it be the fuel pump even though a re-start is no problem?
  5. Porsche only sells are harness repair kit for each axle side. For the Left Rear - 996 612 953 01 Repair Kit Harness -- US MSRP $128.89 For the right Rear - 996 612 954 01 Repair Kit Harness -- US MSRP $128.89 This is exactly what you need to repair the broken wheel sensor/brake wear sensor cable. Spent 3 hours working on this and I have a speedo/TC/ABS working again. I replaced this: With this: The cable comes from the rear driver wheel well just forward of the shock mount Runs across the back of the seat to a junction under the rear seatback center hinge Forward then across the front of the rear seat To the drivers side wall then down to Junction X2/4 which is on the floor just behind the drivers door I had to remove the rear side panel, both rear seat, pull up the carpeting for the rear seats and was able to peel back the floor carpet to do what I needed to do.
  6. Thanks Loren! Time to bite the bullet and see if it will do what I need.
  7. For those of you who are curious, I attached a piece of the wiring diagram the show the cable I need. It is a plastic/rubber block connector bolted to the wheel hub (each wheel hub has one) then the cable runs to location X 2/4 in the rear footwell for the rears.
  8. Well, operating on the premise that "it can't get any more broke" I went at the plug with a razor knife. The plastic crumbled apart and I was able to get the broken wire out. A little bit of solder, some electrical tape, and I have TC, ABS and a speedometer again. I still need to replace the cable as this is a short term fix at best. So if anyone has any ideas of a part number (short of having the OPC replace it) I am all ears.
  9. 1998 RoW C2 coupe My ABS light and TC Off light came on yesterday. This was quickly followed by my speedo reading very erradically. I checked for error codes and found a problem with the rear left speed sensor. Upon further inspection and a little trouble shooting, the speed sensor is OK but the connector that the speed sensor and the brake wear sensor plug into is cracked. That is causing a short in the connection. I really have two questions. 1. Is there a part number for this specific cable? 2. Is it possible to replace this cable somewhat easily? On the electrical diagram (sheet 10) you can see the cable goes from the wheel housing to location X2/4 which is into a white 30 pin plug. This should be located in the rear left footwell. Does anyone know exactly where this is? Is it under the rear drivers side seat? Any help that anyone can give would be most appreciated!
  10. Thanks. Guess I need to get back under there and look more closely the the springs. Hopefully I can find some markings.
  11. Ok. I measured the ride height at the bottom of the car. I am 4in (101mm) in the front and 4 11/16 (119mm) in the back. So I am sitting about 40mm less than stock. I pulled the front wheel and the shock part number is 996-343-041-04 which is the stock shock for my car. Soooo... when I go to order new shocks should I order Bilstein B6 for normal springs or a B8 for lowered springs? The service manual says there should be colored bands on the spring but those are long gone. Any guesses?
  12. I know the tires are incorrect. The tire placard specifies 225/40-18 and 265/35-18. That is another thing to change when the tires wear down.
  13. Hello. I have a 1998 RoW Carrera Tiptronic. I purchased used from a dealer about 2 months ago knowing there were a lot of upkeep issues. I am looking at updating the suspension as there is a clunk in the from end going over speed bumps. The OPC says new wishbones, control arms, shocks all around. Based on the age that is probably a good idea. The maintenance history is spotty and the OPC in Bahrain is the only one in the country. There are quite a few Indy's though happy to work on your car. Looking at what other people have posted about their fender height, mine seems way below stock. The fronts sit at 24.5 (622mm) and the rear is 25 1/8 (640mm). That is with a 1/2 tank of gas and nobody in the car. As I am looking to replace the shocks and reuse the springs, after I pull the wheel off, how can I tell what type of springs are on the car? I imagine I should be able to see a serila number on the shock itself and that should give me an indication. Can anyone tell me if I am heading in the right direction or if I am way off? Thanks. Couple of pictures below.
  14. Unfortunately, I do not think Bahrain is in your neighborhood. I do appreciate the offer though. I may try and find an Indy here that has one.
  15. I do have a aftermarket radio but the problem started well after the radio install. I do have the dreaded broken oddments lid (repair hinge is in the mail) but like I said, this "open condition" randomly started. Is there any way to check what is not being closed properly? Is it recorded somewhere the durametric cable can access? It is funny, three days in a row I got no beep when I locked the car, then about an hour later, alarm goes off. So I have to go out and silence it. Otherwise, almost every day for the past three weeks I get a beep from the lock. Besides opening and closing every movable door, Is there any way to tell where the "open" is? I thought it was the radio as well. I have tried taping off the alarm wire, connecting it to ground and heavily insulating the bottom of the radio. My car does not have the pressure switch on the side. The CR-31 that I removed a while ago had a small insulated patch on the bottom. I taped off this area pretty heavily and had not problems until recently.
  16. I have a 1998 RoW C2 Coupe, Tiptronic, 3.4L. When I lock the doors manually with key, or electronically with the key, I get the double light flash and a single beep. I ordered a Durametric cable and hooked it up to check the fault. When I checked for Alarm faults, none are listed. If I do not immediately unlock the car after I lock it, I will get random alarms all day. On the durametric, there is no part number listed in the details section for the alarm module. Does this mean the module is bad and needs to be replaced? Is there anything else I can check (given that the durametric shows no faults) to test the alarm module before I head to the OPC? Thanks!
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