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longrowe

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Everything posted by longrowe

  1. Ordering a new Y-cable will take 1-2 weeks so I figured in the meantime, lets try and put the old cable back in. I removed it, but maybe it is still good (since it was unrelated to my slow starter). Sure enough, 1.5 hours later, new cable out, old cable back in and the volt meter is at 13.5 with both AC and headlights and with the engine at or above normal operating. Sucks that the new cable went bad in 8 months, glad that the group here convinced me to swap out the cable in my 100F garage.
  2. Well that sucks. I guess that is next on the fix list. That is what I suspected as well but was hoping for a better answer. Thanks for the confirmation
  3. The idle RPM does increase when the AC comes on. I initially suspected the voltage regulator as well so I got a new one. No difference. I have tried swapping alternators also since the one in the car was a cheap one. No luck. I still get the same readings on the dash voltage meter with the stock alternator as well.
  4. I have a 1998 ROW C2 coupe tiptronic. For the past couple months (since it is hot enough to make AC mandatory) I have noticed that the voltage will start at 13.8 and then as I drive will steadily drop to rest at about 12.8/12.5. This is with the AC on. With AC and headlights, it is closer to 12.3 volts. The engine temp usually stay just past the 0 in 80C. If stop and go, it will creep to the high speed fan point but not to the 100C line. The issue I am having is that with the lower voltage, sitting at a stoplight, the idle will stumble and sometimes stall. If I keep the car in Neutral, the car will not stall and I can drop it into drive when the light goes green. This only happens when the temp is way up and the voltage goes down close to 12. I found Ahsai's electrical troubleshooting guide and measured the voltages today: Batt- to Alt case is 0.07V, Alt Out to Batt+ is 0.2V, Alt Out to Charge Post is 0.71V, Post to Batt+ is 0.12V, Alt out to Alt case is 14.00V. The battery is only about 2 months old and I replaced the Y-Cable in January because I had a slow, hot-cranking issue. That turned out to be a worn out starter which I replaced about a month ago. Cranks like a champ now, hot or cold. So I guess my question is what could my issue be? If I drive with no AC the voltage stays at 13.8 no matter the engine temp. Once i add AC, the voltage immediately drops to 13 and then creeps down to 12.5 ish. It doesn't appear to be the ground cable and the reading point to the Y-cable but it is not that old. The car drives excellent except for the odd stall when the voltage gets really low. Thanks
  5. Good to hear. I have a similar issues and what sucks is, I replaced my Y-cable about 6 months ago and my alternator about a year ago. I am also getting a low voltage at operating temperature. When I start the car, it will be about 13.5 volts. As I drive it, the voltage will drop to 12.6 ish. AC on or off, doesn't matter. I replaced the battery (3 years old) and the voltage regulator last week, but the problem persists. Any ideas? I have a '98 C2 coupe if it makes a difference.
  6. Pulled the sensor out and cleaned up the contacts, actuated the arm. Everything seemed to move freely. That must have done the trick as it is reading correctly again. Filled up and no problems with the gauge moving. We will see. Thanks for all of the input!
  7. Thanks for the confirmation that it could be the sender. Mine is inside the tank. I will open it this weekend and clean it up. We'll see if that clears it up.
  8. I have a 1998, ROW C2. Over the past two weeks I have noticed that the fuel gauge is not reading correctly. The gauge will read high (3/4) but as I drive, the gauge will slowly drop to the correct reading over about 15 minutes. As the car sits, either at work for the day or in the garage overnight, when I go to start the car, the gauge will read over 1/4 tank higher than when I shut it off. Then, as I drive, it will drop to where I think it should be (or remember where it should be). I plan to pull the sender this weekend and check the connections, but I don't think it is the float as why would it rise while the car is turned off? Is it possible to troubleshoot the cluster gauge? I have a Durametric so I will attempt the fuel level calibration when I have pumped down the tank. Or am I just fooling myself and the gauge is bad?
  9. Yep. I had that revelation this morning. Glad it is sorted out.
  10. Well that was anti-climactic. So, got home after stopping for a handful of fuses. Turns out, the driver's side turn signal wire insulation finally fell apart. Go figure after 18 years in the Bahrain heat. It had shorted the wiring which was blowing the fuse. Somehow, that caused the hazard fuse to blow and ALL of the alarm fuses. About 4 or 5. So, after fixing the wires so they weren't touching, and replacing a lot of fuses, everything seems back to normal. Strange that the turn signal bulb would cause this big chain reaction, but, electricity was never my strong area.
  11. 1998 ROW C2 Coupe. Mid-way through a drive around town I noticed the dash indicators for the turn signals stopped working. At my next destination, I checked the hazards and turn signals, no flash. I also lost the ability to have "one touch" up for the windows. Lock the car, go about my business. "One touch" down works, not up. So, I get home, sure enough, the fuse for the turn signals/window control is blown. Woohoo for my trouble shooting skills! So I replace the fuse, check the turn signal, fuse immediately blows. RATS! So I am guessing the signal relay has gone to the big parts bin in the sky. I run to the dealer (don't ask, Bahrain is a hard place to fix things) and of course, they do not have one in stock. So, I am ordering one from the US and it will be just as fast as ordering from the dealer, plus I need to order more fuses. Long story short, while I am at the dealer, I have removed the bad relay (so they can get the part number) and I attempt to lock the car. The alarm starts to continuously double beep. I unlock the door with the key because now the fob won't unlock the door. The car drives fine but I cannot operate the windows at all. They still drop when I open the door, but the console switches do not work. I am at work and when I get home I will put the bad relay back in to see if makes the alarm stop freaking out and the windows work again. Has anybody experienced this before? Am I operating under the correct assumptions? Replacing the relay should fix this issue?
  12. Struck out with buycarparts. They cannot find a matching part. I tried eBay.de and they only have used ones. Thanks for the input though! I may try Bosch USA and give my dad all my car info.
  13. Thanks for the link. They do not list this one specifically but I sent them an email in case I missed it on their site.
  14. I have a ROW 1998 Carrera 2 Coupe. I have an intermittent bad park assist sensor. It looks like from Porsche it runs from $160 -$200 depending on the vendor. I disassembled the bumper cover and removed the sensor to get a look at it. It has a Bosch part number on it, 0 263 003 010. Does anyone now if it is possible to order directly from Bosch? I called Bosch USA because they speak English but they wanted to call me back after they researched the part. They cannot make an international call so they suggested I call my local Bosch representative. If Bosch is like every other company in Bahrain, they will have NO IDEA what I am talking about. I can give all of my info to my dad and have Bosch contact him (in the US) but I wanted to know before I head down that road if anyone has successfully ordering directly from Bosch. Thanks!
  15. Replaced the VR with the Bosch one from my original alternator. Everything is working perfectly, no more fluctuation. Voltage is steady at 13.8V and 13.5V with AC and lights.
  16. Had the battery tested, came out at 84%, had the alternator tested with the AC and lights on, showed as "Good". I have the VR off of my old alternator that I can try and swap in. The old one had a mechanical issue (bearing) so the electrical portion should still be good. Never had any trouble with the old one charging correctly. They did not bench test the alternator, simply hooked up to the cables and did a test. The one I ordered was marked as "new" not re-manufactured.
  17. Hello. I have a 1998 ROW C2 coupe tiptronic that I just replaced the alternator on. The new alternator has been in only for two days but now it will surge between 13V-14V when idling in gear. If I am driving normally, it is just under 14V, steady. If I turn on the Ac/Radio etc. the voltage will drop slightly (as one would expect) but it holds steady. As I am sitting at a stop light, the voltage will surge up and down and the rpm will surge with it, not much but enough that you can hear the engine sound change. As I pulled into work and put the car into park, the surge stopped and held steady just under 14V. I put the car into D just to test, the surge can back. Back into P, the surge stops. From what I am reading, this is more than likely a problem with the voltage regulator, but why only when it is idling in Drive?
  18. I bought the Rein ones from autoatlanta. Mine were at 55,000 miles but 18 years old. You can see the difference between the used ones and the new ones.
  19. That's no kidding! Those guys are SLOW! Anyways, Pulled the door off, got the lock lever back in place and all is good. Also figured out that the "fits 996 and 986" door locks actually don't work on my 1998 model. The electrical portion would not activate correctly, thus the double beep when unlocking. I swapped the electrical part and used the newer mechanical part. Now it works perfectly. Thanks!!
  20. Rats. Now I see the slot in the old lock mechanism. Ok. Will tackle the door again tomorrow.
  21. Hello. I have a 1998 ROW coupe. I had a driver door lock that would jam when it was in the sun for a while. The window would drop, but the lock would not release. It would take several lock/unlock cycles before the lock would release. I just replaced the lock mechanism, and now, when you use the key in the door, it will not lock. The key fob can lock the door remotely, but the key in the door does nothing. When I lock the door, I get a double flash of the turn signals, the dash LED double flashes for 10 sec then goes to slow flash. When I unlock, I get the turn signal flash but the alarm horn beeps twice. Is there something I need to do to reset the door lock? Is there a "learn" procedure I need to complete to get the key to work correctly again? Thanks!
  22. This pertains to your model year: https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-2004-04-07/html/04-7884.htm
  23. I have been looking into this as well. I have a GCC 1998 C2 that I would like to bring back with me (I am a US citizen). It doesn't look easy at all. I saw this info on the Federal website: http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/import/ and I am hoping to get mine in under the 25 year old exemption. Saw the same information on the customs website: http://www.cbp.gov/trade/basic-import-export/importing-car. It looks like conforming a car will be pretty extensive as all the glass, lights fuel cell will have to be DOT certified As well as seat belts and any other safety equipment. Just a sec and I will post what needs to be replaced your car to make it conform. while no official, i found this site summed it up pretty well: http://jalopnik.com/here-are-the-four-legal-ways-to-import-a-car-to-the-uni-1682067632
  24. I think I will get some hookup wire and re-wire them. Thanks for all the replies.
  25. I have a 1998 RoW Coupe. Yesterday I pulled the left headlight to replace the parking bulb. When I pulled the socket out, the insulation completely crumbled off the wires. Completely. So I had three bare wires from the socket to the wire loom. Evidently, 130 degree desert heat for 15 years is not so good for wire insulation. Anyways, is there a way to replace just the internal wire loom without replacing the entire headlight assembly? I imagine both sides will be similar. The next best thing would be to manually replace all of the wiring. I have found a place that sells 20AWG wire with automotive markings. I can cut and solder in new wires and rebuild the harness but looking to see if anyone knows of a more plug and play solution that won't make my wallet cry. Thanks!
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