machster

I am having trouble inserting the replacement shock into the rear of the car. I have compressed the spring and reassembled the entire strut but cannot get it fully inserted. when I get the top of the assembly into the fitting, I cannot move the shock up enough to fit into the bottom mount. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Has anyone had experience with the LUK brand flywheel for their 996? They are currently selling this for about $400.00. This is signifcantly less expensive than the Sachs version.

I have a couple questions about the transmission removal on a 2003 C4. First, how high does the rear of the vehicle need to be jacked to get the tranny out? and how does the proceedure differ from a RWD car?

I replaced the vent valve and now I cannot get gas into the tank. I saw a post with an image referencing a slot in the vent valve where a switch is to be inserted. I am not seeing any switch under the wheel well that could be inserted. I don't see how this matters. It appears to simply be a holder for something.Please help!

Take a look at this

 

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/50264-success-finally-fixed-hard-start-while-hot-fueling-issues.html

The last couple trips to the gas station resulted in the car not wanting to start. I had to pump the gas a bunch of times and then it would start. Between fill ups is fine. Also, i am hearing a resonating sound when RPMs are lowering coming from the area of the gas cap. I swapped out the cap and it is still making the sound. Furthermore, i am getting two dtc codes of P1128 and P1130

The problem is fixed. Sunset Imports suggested I look at the Vent Line from the Manifold. Swapped out with a new one and the problem is gone.

The last couple trips to the gas station resulted in the car not wanting to start. I had to pump the gas a bunch of times and then it would start. Between fill ups is fine. Also, i am hearing a resonating sound when RPMs are lowering coming from the area of the gas cap. I swapped out the cap and it is still making the sound. Furthermore, i am getting two dtc codes of P1128 and P1130.

The last couple trips to the gas station resulted in the car not wanting to start. I had to pump the gas a bunch of times and then it would start. Between fill ups is fine. Also, i am hearing a resonating sound when RPMs are lowering coming from the area of the gas cap. I swapped out the cap and it is still making the sound. Furthermore, i am getting two dtc codes of P1128 and P1130

2001 base with a manual trans have a left and a right axle listed.

I see the different part numbers. I have a spare axle and it appears to be identical to the opposite one. I would like to know if they are interchangeable.

These parts have different Porsche part #'s. Are they interchangeable? They appear to be the same.

Year, transmission, and model?

2001 Boxster manual tranny. Thnx

base model

These parts have different Porsche part #'s. Are they interchangeable? They appear to be the same.

Year, transmission, and model?

2001 Boxster manual tranny. Thnx

These parts have different Porsche part #'s. Are they interchangeable? They appear to be the same.

Thanks for your input. I used the Sir Tools puller. I was able to use a Dremel with a cutting attachment without damaging the hub.

I have pulled the hub to replace the bearings. When the hub separated, the front half of the bearing is still attached to the hub. How can i remove this from the hub shaft?

I am replacing the rear bearings and would like to know if the bearing needs to be inserted with a specific orientation. I have a 2001 Boxster. I am unaware if the car uses bearing speed sensor magnets. I was told some Boxsters have them and require proper bearing placement. Please advise.

Not on your car. That is correct, but only for later models than yours (2005 987/997 and later). The later car's bearings can only go in one way so that the wheel speed sensors work correctly. On the newer cars that have integrated ABS sensor wheels into the bearing, you need to make sure that the sensor side goes next to the sensor itself Most bearings come marked in some fashion, but you can also obtain a $15 tool that will tell you which side is which:

It's ATE part number 760130, and is sold by Amazon.com and others for this exact purpose.

I am replacing the rear bearings and would like to know if the bearing needs to be inserted with a specific orientation. I have a 2001 Boxster. I am unaware if the car uses bearing speed sensor magnets. I was told some Boxsters have them and require proper bearing placement. Please advise.

Not on your car. That is correct, but only for later models than yours (2005 987/997 and later). The later car's bearings can only go in one way so that the wheel speed sensors work correctly. On the newer cars that have integrated ABS sensor wheels into the bearing, you need to make sure that the sensor side goes next to the sensor itself Most bearings come marked in some fashion, but you can also obtain a $15 tool that will tell you which side is which:

It's ATE part number 760130, and is sold by Amazon.com and others for this exact purpose.

Thanks for your response!

I am replacing the rear bearings and would like to know if the bearing needs to be inserted with a specific orientation. I have a 2001 Boxster. I am unaware if the car uses bearing speed sensor magnets. I was told some Boxsters have them and require proper bearing placement. Please advise.

My understanding it that the Bilsteins (like PSS10's) have built in springs.

Or go the ROW M030 route for about $1,150 and get all new sways, springs, bushings, and struts, vs the $900ish for just struts from TR.

Thanks. I will look into the Row option. I see that the reviews are pretty good.

I think I know what everyone will say. But I will ask anyway. Will I feel a significant improvement in ride quality by replacing the Struts?. Currently, every bump is a earth shaking experience. Money is tight and I want to know if it is worth doing now. I have been looking at the Tire Rack standard Bilstein struts, and reuse the current springs.

I have a crack in the intake system allowing air into the engine. I am having trouble identifying the part # to replace. Please take a look at the image. What is the white valve looking component just to the left of the intake manifold?

Thanks

I have replaced the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing. I have attached the transaxle to the engine and have had difficulty getting the clutch slace cylinder back into the housing. I can't seen to compress the piston enough to get the bolt hole to align. Also, should I be able to press on the release lever through the opening in the housing?The lever does not seem to want to move forward. Any ideas?

I an replacing the Clutch and RMS this weekend. I will be removing the transaxle without removing the shifter brackets. How do the cables unclip from these assemblies? any other helpful tips? I did purchase the RMS Arbor from Sirtools. I will be selling this tool once the project is complete.

Um, I am familiar with the oil seal arbors that Sir sells for Porsche, and to my knowledge they do not have the correct one for the PTFE RMS seal. Which arbor number did you purchase?

I have the P250 tool. The seal fits nicely on the tool.

That may be, but I think that tool is for the seal design prior to the PTFE seals used now; if it is, it will set the seal at the wrong depth, which is critical. I think you need to check with Sir to be sure it is machined to set the PTFE seal.

THANKS FOR THE INPUT. I WILL CHECK WITH THEM.

I an replacing the Clutch and RMS this weekend. I will be removing the transaxle without removing the shifter brackets. How do the cables unclip from these assemblies? any other helpful tips? I did purchase the RMS Arbor from Sirtools. I will be selling this tool once the project is complete.

Um, I am familiar with the oil seal arbors that Sir sells for Porsche, and to my knowledge they do not have the correct one for the PTFE RMS seal. Which arbor number did you purchase?

I have the P250 tool. The seal fits nicely on the tool.

I an replacing the Clutch and RMS this weekend. I will be removing the transaxle without removing the shifter brackets. How do the cables unclip from these assemblies? any other helpful tips? I did purchase the RMS Arbor from Sirtools. I will be selling this tool once the project is complete.

The upstream and downstream O2 sensors have different length pigtails on them. Do you see any problems with using four of the same O2 sensors with the longer pigtails? I have a MAXspeed aftermarket CAT and the wires are barely long enough on the shorter O2.

Has anyone here had any experience with the Bosch O2 sensors from Autozone? They show that they are direct fit for Upstream and separate models for Downstream. They are about $125.00 each.

What is the best way to re-torque the nut to 340 lbs?