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Capt.Evan
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Everything posted by Capt.Evan
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Thanks for that suggestion. The connector will likely not match up, as it only has one switch and the driver side connects 4 to the wiring harness, but I could try.. I am trying to imagine a wiring diagram where the key-in-the-door-lock window feature would run through the interior switch, where if one went bad, so would the other. It started working again today, with one brief failure, but it is just a matter of time. If the brains are in the motor assembly, that is likely the culprit. Just need to fix it before the wife gets in line at the carwash on a forthcoming cold winter day. :censored: Evan -
After earlier intermittent problems that seemed to be fixed for 5 months, the driver window is now stuck down. When I had the trouble before, you could wait 10 minutes, and then it would come up fine for awhile. I had tried the reprogramming route a few dozen times, but the problem always came back. Finally took the door apart back in April, and the regulator was very stiff but appeared in otherwise excellent shape. I worked lubrication into the cables and slides, and got it working very easy and smooth. Back in and no issues until now. It even travelled quite a bit easier than the other windows, so I would not think the regulator is faulty. Neither the driver's switch or the key in the door lock will work, which would appear to rule out a switch problem? All other windows work fine, and even when fully closed, make an audible motor effort if tried to close further. The driver window does make that motor effort to go further down, but no noise when attempting to raise. As noted before, the driver window stops 5/8" lower in the door than the passenger window. Seems I must now replace the motor, although it is odd for a 12v motor to only work in one direction? Does the motor have logic built in which could be messed? Any help is appreciated, as I don't want to just throw parts at it. Evan NOTE: Just went out and tried after 2 days sitting, and it went up like there was nothing wrong
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2006 S Platinum with 110,000 miles. Bought the Duratec software and cable. Had a fault on #5 coil back in April, and replaced it. Ran well again for several months, until #8 and #4 showed intermittent issues. Bought 7 more coils and all new plugs, and replaced them all. Wow!!! I thought the throttle response was good before, now she seems to be pulling extremely hard at the reins. What fun to drive, and no idea new plugs and coils could make such a difference. You always hear that plugs, with unleaded gas, will last forever.....case and point, my 2000 Silverado 5.3 at 266k still getting 17mpg and strong with original plugs and wires. I must also offer a heartfelt thank you to those of you who buy new, and give many of us a chance to enjoy these "broken in" machines within our means. Thought I could catch up some day and order my own, but nay, the new prices continue to run beyond me. It is indeed a privilege to take over their care where you have moved up. And thank you, Loren, for putting up with us. Evan
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Morning Loren. Per your recommendation, I have removed the door trim panel. I found no "smoking gun" wire or connection issue. After removing the inner panel fasteners, I have 4 rivets remaining across the top. The panel does not flex enough to get at the regulator, per an earlier post, unless he bent it at the top. It appears I will have to remove the door seal to free the panel, or will it just hang by it? Could you share any service manual pages to enlighten me on procedure? This window stops 5/8" lower in the door than the passenger side. If there is a pot that reads window position, per the relearning process, I wonder if the lower position is at the limits of the pot or position sensor? Any shared wisdom would be appreciated. Evan
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The problem keeps coming back.... goes down fine but will not come up for an indefinite period. I would guess I have re-learned the window limits a dozen times now. Seems to work after that, but it may last a month, a week, or a day. Lately I have been able to stop it on the way down. Earlier the switch was ineffective at stopping the window from going all the way down. Any thoughts. Evan
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That did the trick. Thanks and my apologies for not reading the manual about such a thing. I am used to US car manuals which say very little, other than take it to your dealer. Evan
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Thanks Loren, I will try that later tonight. I must have my notifications not set properly, because I have no idea there is a response for me unless I go back and open the post. Are there email or text options to advise of an inquiry response, or simply that more content has been added to a thread? Sorry, just new here. Evan
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No I have not. Thought that was required with a battery disconnect. Is that simply the hold at the top for 4 to 5 seconds?
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New member here, after lurking for years. I have searched the site for comparable window issues with no success. Our 06 Cayenne S driver's side window will go down without issue, but not back up. At first I thought it was going down too far, as it is easily 1/2" lower when fully down than the passenger window, so we were simply stopping it short of full opening for awhile. Now at times you cannot even check stop the automatic down, and when you can, it still will not go up promptly. To close it, you simply need to leave it alone for a few minutes, and then it goes up fine. Smooth and quiet operation when it works. No hesitation in coming up even, when fully opened. That would seem to rule out the regulator? Is there some potential thermal property to the switch or a relay, a sort of power window menopause, as indeed she is getting older? Now that it is warmer in Michigan, the time required to "leave it alone" has lengthened, adding to the thermal speculation. Any assistance is appreciated, and thank you for all the untold help and shared knowledge past. Evan NOTE: When this happens in line for a 33° winter car wash, with 5 cars waiting behind, it propagates into true marital stress.