Stee

I found the ABS to unnecessarily increase stopping distances. I was told by a few friends who are more familiar with Rally driving that they usually pull the ABS fuse in these conditions to allow more lockup to create a buildup of snow in front of the tires and create a wedge. My issue is I can't find the ABS fuse. Does anyone know which fuse to pull to disable ABS? Thanks for the help.

Guys! Saturday Monticello Motorsports Club is having another Winter Driving Series event like last weekend (open to non-members). Come drive sideways in the snow! Writeups: http://axisofoversteer.blogspot.com/2009/01/winter-fix.html http://holunfie.blogspot.com/2009/01/mmc-onboard.html Videos: http://vimeo.com/user1016109/videos Pics: http://photoremski.com:88/gallery/main.php...0&g2_page=1 http://www.ponycars.net/wds011009.htm Link to more information about the Winter Driving Series: http://www.drivemmc.com/ If you're interested email the organizer Matt Gottlieb (mgottlieb@monticellomotorclub.com ) and pre-register to save $$$. If you can get a group of 3 or more guys together to pre-register, its $175 each. If you pre-reg on your own its $199. If you don't pre-reg and just show up, its $250. The format is basically similar to autox except it's on Monticello's South course (1.8 mile track). They release one car at a time at the end of pit lane. You are timed from when you are released until you cross the finish line at the end of the last turn before pit lane. It's very safe (probably safer than your average HPDE). The cars are spaced out ~30-60 seconds. The snow banks on the sides of the track act like giant pillow barriers. Trust me when I tell you that the smiles per $ is better than any HPDE or club race I've ever attended. Just look at those pics! Imagine an open snow covered track where driving sideways is encouraged!

Thank you for your help Todd. I spoke to the shop owner this morning and he did the right thing. He asked for the car back and said he would figure out what it takes to get it right. I will keep you posted.

I picked up my '97 Boxster from a local shop today after they performed a 3.4L swap and I have a few issues. First off, my redline is 6600 RPM(i thought the 3.4L was supposed to be 7100 rpm redline?). The dyno sheet they gave me (on a dynopack) shows 250hp to the wheels (right at the 6600 rpm redline!). The dyno sheet also looks to me like the 3.4L hasn't even hit its peak HP yet. I was told by the shop owner (after the swap was already complete! btw), that because of my older ECU (part # ends in .01) that they couldn't reflash my ecu. He said they were able to reprogram it with the stock 996 3.4L program, but were unable to overcome the 6600 rpm redline. Can that be true? If he couldn't overcome the 6600 rpm redline, then how did he get the stock 996 3.4L software in there? Is this car possibly running on the stock 2.5L program? Can anyone confirm this? What are my options? Can I get a GIAC performance program for the 3.4 motor on my stock ecu or do i need to get another ecu (and if so, what ecu do i need to look for?)? Also, the motor idles a little rougher than the 2.5L motor did. sometimes shaky idle, but not enough to move the tach needle around. the Torque curve in the dyno graph is extremely erratic (see dyno printout below). The excuse that was told to me by the Owner of the shop for this was that it was normal for all stock 996 manifolds to have torque curves like this. This doesn't make sense to me. Can anyone confirm/deny this? Some Backround on the car: It's got Fabspeed headers (the ones without the cats in them) and a custom L pipe without cats. It also has that Stebro extremely ltw race muffler. The intake is stock. It now has a 996 sport clutch and a ltw flywheel. It's a stripped out caged up race car that I'm building for NASA's GTS3. Any help would be greatly appreciated! -Steven Dyno Pack printout below: