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Greg Moirous

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About Greg Moirous

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    Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Quebec
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1957 Triumph tr3
    1987 Austin Mini
    1993 Austin Mini 1310
    1999 Boxster 986
    2002 MG-TF
    2005 Range Rover
    2006 BMW 530i
  1. The Boxster is alive!! Here is what I did: changed the battery (I tried to start, but she still didn't crank) jumped 30 and 87, tried to crank: nothing. put 12V on 87 (15Amp power supply), tried to crank: Nothing put 12V on 86 and 87, tried to crank 1 time, nothing, tried a 2nd time....and voila, it cranked and even started!! Weird thing, the starter "sticked" for a few sec after I switched the power supply off. Put the relay back on, she starts right up. I even let her get up to temp and took her for a spin. Stopped the engine, waited 5 min and started right back! Not sure what happened??? like something was stuck and forcing the 12V helped?? or a 1st sign of Ignition switch going bad (the replacement is on its way). Thanks Ahsai for the schematics and answers!!
  2. Since I dont even get 12V at 30, jump wire will not do anything between 87 and 30 right? From your schematic, cranck switch is really just the physical switch? ( I was under the impression it would be all the imobilizer etc..). If it's the case, and the DME is only controlling the feed between 85 and 86, then the issue is fuse or ign switch...
  3. Just find it odd that the ignition swift brakes with no sign (key turns freely, never had an intermitent issue before)... But again if the fuse was bad other stuff wouldnt be powered. Where is it located exactly? could be an easy check. Could it be the key itself? not answering to rfid for ex??Unfortunately cant seem to find my spare to try it. And could it be the alarm/lock system not giving me the 12V?
  4. weird..never had an issue with it. key turns freely no hard point or issue...
  5. well I dont get anything on the starter relay. Nothing on 30 when trying to crank and nothing on 86. where is the 80amp fuse?
  6. OK Relay 7 is Start Lock relay. Which pin should I get power to? You're right that sounds just like the fuel pump getting started. Also the fuel pump stops when I turn the key to pos 2 (trying to crank) and resume when I come back to 1 (after not cranking) a few sec later. Like it is disabled on pos 2?? I have various OBD readers... ELM327 etc..
  7. Well...all fuses seemed fine. I even swapped all of them for same Amp ones. Jumped the clutch switch, still no crank. :( There is a buzzing sound when you turn on the ignition (something is waking up) to pos 1 of the key. That buzz stops as soon as I try to crank (pos 2 of the key)..not sure if it was already like that before???
  8. Thanks. In this case its not even cranking/spinning anymore.. ?
  9. Yes I tried to change it but stripped the bolt. The head is still attached to the bolt, just the hex is stripped (was hexagone and is round now). I tried restarting it after replugging and it started right away. You have a good point... would the car not even crank if the sensor was bad or too far from teeth or even unplugged? or would it crank and not start?
  10. Hence the beginning of the story and try to change it...when it was cranking but not starting...
  11. Hi guys, I'm at a loss here... For a couple of years my beloved Boxster started to developp the infamous "not starting when hot" symptoms. Engine would start right up when cold but crank and not start when hot (at a gas station...after a short stop etc..). I dealt with it for a while and this year after getting her out of storage for the summer I ran out of battery because I drained it trying to start too many times on the grocery store parking lot (engine warm)...that was enough for me to decide to change the CPS. After a short battle, the CPS bolt is stripped and I decide to put everything back and enjoy my Boxster as is. Before putting the wheel back on, I checked and the engine fired right up (glad I didnt screw up anything). Now the car is on the ground on its wheels and she wont even crank! I read a lot of things about clutch switch, ignition switch, even fuel pressure... before starting to throw parts and time at it I wanted to make sure it's not something else I missed!!??? It would be real bad luck to have a switch fail just within 5 min of putting the wheel back on? What can I diagnose before starting throwing $$$ ??
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