yeeha68

I have come to a point where any suggestions are appreciated. I have a nasty buzz in the rear of the car. It starts at 40 MPH and grows with speed. It is not engine related as I can push in the clutch, or slip into neutral while moving and it does not change. It sounds and acts like noisy tires, but they are in good shape and only 4 months old. It just appeared one day out of the blue, and wont go away. There is no noticeable vibration in the car, or on the clutch. It is not effected by taking turns or braking.

I have repacked the CV joints, changed the gear oil, and checked the bearings with no change. I suppose the bearings may be bad and I just cant tell from close inspection, or manual spin.

With the car lifted and the wheels running in gear the noise cannot be found or heard. I cant think of anything else it might be other then the transmission, but changing gears does not effect the sound. Only velocity effects it.

I'll take any suggestions even if they require ritual dances around the car. :notworthy:

'98 boxster

5 speed

75,000 miles

You refer to grease expanding in the boots. When I opened the boot the grease was only on the joint, and I could slightly see the bearings in the grease. The boot was clean and dry. I assume this is not the correct amount of grease and there should be enough to fill some of the boot, but not all of it?

I have buzzing in the rear of the car. I have narrowed it down to either the CV joints or some internal transmission issue. When I grab the axle I can move it back and forth (from trans to hub) about 3/4". In my experience with other CV joint cars, this should not be the case.

Is this normal for a 986?

The boots are clean and there is grease inside. I personally would pack more, so I have removed them. Is there an approved grease I should be using?

Thanks

-k

'98 Boxster

Tool Aid 61900 at Toolking.com. $16.53

http://www.toolking.com/toolaid_61900.aspx

If you want to avoid the rust, just give them a good coat of primer before the install. Dont worry about getting it on the disk, 2 trips around the block and your pads will clean them up nicely. I did mine about a year ago and they still look good, no rust. There is a great DIY thread in here somewhere reguarding this

-k

I never get return waves...

I also have a jeep wrangler, (15 yrs) and you cant go anywhere without giving and getting the wave. Its law! To not give or return the wave in a jeep is just plain embarrassing.

Whats up with that all you non-waving P-cars?

Wave On!

CDC-3 which is the same as the Becker 2660.

Thank You

-k

I have a CDR210 head unit in my 98 Boxster. Does anyone know the model number for the compatible multi-changer. I was looking at a CDC-3 and a CDC-1. I think the CDC-3 will work, but not sure about the CDC-1.

thanks

Yea, I'm sure its a cheap one, but the simplicity it takes to swap it out, and the few extra switches I got will make it worth it if it lasts awhile. We'll see... time will tell.

The dealer told me $500. had to replace the entire lock, and told me I couldnt do it because I would have to take apart the better part of the dash. AND I would need the PST2 to reprogram the switch to start.

...WHAT AN A$$

New ignition switch at autohausaz.com... $9.00

My time to swap it out...less then 30min (for a first timer)

All better!

Wow...It really does work. Yes, sometimes the simplest things work the best.

I always used the logic that if the light blinked, the transmitter transmitted, but this makes sense.

Took a roadtrip today (98 boxster) and noticed the same thing. Using a Garmin GPS I was generally showing a 5 MPH difference. Gauge showed 85MPH, GPS read 80MPH. Now, I am a true believer in German precision, BUT, I have to say, I know the GPS was correct and the car was off.

I need to replace the bearings in the front of my 98 boxster. I've read many helpful threads here but have one question that still seems grey. It appears I can replace the bearings without removing the carrier with the correct tools. The hub tammer seems to be the tool. Unfortunately there seem to be several versions of this tool. I am looking at;

Hub Tamer #3531 Master FWD Front Wheel Bearing Tool Set by K-D Tools

Will this tool do the job entirely?

Thanks

My A/C got warm and eventually stopped last week and I am lost. (98 boxster) I think the compressor is still kicking in, as I can hear the lag in the motor when I turn it on. I thought maybe the R134a was low so I checked the pressure. This is what stumps me. I used a simple gauge and refill can (R134a PAG) but when I hook it up to the low pressure line it shows a pressure of over 100lbs. That would be way out of line, would it not? I keep hearing that an A/C recharge is simple and straight forward, but I need some guidance. Can anyone give me an idea of what’s going on with the pressure? Should it be that high? According to the gauge 35-40 is where it needs to be.

yes, it is a porsche dealer. He claims he cant do it. cant add...cant delete. Unless I change out the ignition lock, and possibly the anti-theft module. in the neighbohood of $1,500.

It seems I need to change the ignition lock as the dealer cant seem to get a new key programmed into the car. He claims it could be the ignition lock (which has a sensor), or the anti-theft module. Oddly enough, after the key program issue my ignition lock is acting up and getting stuck.

Heres the question, if I replace the whole lock myself ($150 part), will I be able to start the car, or does this part need to be programmed to accept the key. The dealer tells me it does, and I cant do it myself. Is that true?

Point of trivia: for MY2000, at least, the car's computer can accomodate 5 imobilizer transponder signatures. If a key is suspected stolen, the old key transponder signature can be erased from the car computer's memory .... to make it incapable of starting the car (key will turn, but car will not start). If one is simply adding a new key head, then this step can be skipped .... unless removing a key is necessary to make room for the new one.

He said mine can accommodate 4, and that all had been used. Although I have only one key. He could not erase them, and could not get the new key to be recognized.

I just had all 4 replaced and asked for the Michelin Pilot Sport Rib. When I got home I discovered the front tires were sport ribs and the rear were pilot SX mxx3 tires. I think the ribs are N2 and the SX are N0. The dealer claims they made a mistake, but they are all good tires. The dealer said he would swap them out. Should I care enough to go back and change the rears out to sport Ribs?

My dealer did not ask for the code tag (although I do have it). But he did tell me the new key wasnt taking the program and I now need to replace the ignition lock because something must be wrong. Does he not know what hes doing, or do they not really need the tag code?