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    Savannah, GA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    98 Boxster

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yeeha68's Achievements


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Community Answers

  1. Durametric scan came back clean. Everything checks out correct... But its not. I guess I'll take a closer look at the compressor and pressure ranges again and then report back.
  2. Yes, both. It is 90psi while the compressor is running and 90psi while off
  3. Hello All, My A/C has been getting warmer over the last week to the point of just warm air. The compressor is engaging as I can see, hear, and watch the tach drop slightly as it does. I figured it just needed a quick recharge, but the low side pressure is ridiculously high at 90psi. Before I go and pull the world apart does anyone have experience with this scenario? Does this point to a bad compressor or Refrigerant Control Valve? I'm not really finding anything in the search dialog. I have a vacuum and used it on other cars, but have never seen this "overcharge" high pressure issue. I guess I'll try to lower the pressure first, but I have my doubts it will fix anything. Thanks in advance for any input. -k
  4. Well, it looks like I never reported back about this issue. For anyone else having this problem it was indeed the AOS that need to be replaced. Sorry for the huge delay in the report.
  5. @san rensho, Yes, the vacuum is very significant. I could not even get the oil cap off while the car was running, and I don't ever remember it being that strong. Thank you all for the input. Unless anyone else has other ideas, I will start with the AOS and report back (hopefully with a solution) for future members who may have this issue.
  6. Hello All! I have a terrible squeal (like a tea kettle about to blow) coming from my engine bay (986). I have since, eliminated the pulleys and belt as the problem and finally discovered that opening the dipstick to release vacuum pressure stops it. Also, when I turn the engine off I can hear the squeal wind down and "weeze" out. I guess thats good because I was worried it was metal on metal. Im not sure where to start poking. Its very loud and I cant seem to pinpoint it. Im thinking maybe the AOS? No codes, no performance issues...yet. Anyone ever experience this issue? I have attached a link with a video of the problem. Be prepared...its loud. See the problem here. https://youtu.be/OZZJaWV6UUw Thanks to all in advance... -k
  7. Well I think I have solved the issue. It looks like it was indeed the Crank Position Sensor (CKP). And in reply to JayUSA123-You are correct on your Ohm readings. My old one read 10k on pins 1 and 2, while the new one read .9k which is right in range with your readings. And now a word of caution to everyone attempting this replacement. Removing and replacing the sensor is not a big deal. It took 10 min. to get the sensor out, and it should take less to get the new one back in. However, you are working a good distance away from the sensor and using a long extension on a socket to remove/replace a single screw. Heres the fun part...as I was negotiating the screw into the hole it dropped and disappeared. After a few minuets of searching I realized that just to the left of the sensor there is an open inspection port for the flywheel. You cant see it, but you can fit three fingers into it. Its a half circle shape about the size of a starter hole. Anyway, the screw easily disappeared into it and was unreachable. Im embarrassed to even admit this, but I hope this knowledge will help someone else in the future avoid this trap. After reviewing old pictures from a previous build, I assumed the screw fell into a small pocket cell and was safe from doing damage to the transmission. That feeling lasted for about a week until I came to terms with the fear of a lose screw in the clutch. The last thing you need is a screw catching on the flywheel and jamming at high speed. So for my own peace of mind, I decided to drop the transmission and retrieve the screw. For those of you who have done this, you know just how fun that was. Oh well, it only took a day to do and gave me a chance to get a real good inspection in order. As it turned out the screw was indeed in a small pocket cell (see photo attached) and probably would not have caused a problem, but in the end, Im glad that I took the time to retrieve it and avoid future damage. So long story short...Dont Drop the Screw into the Inspection Port! :oops:
  8. @flyingpenguin and JFP. Thanks for the clarification on the sensor. I finally got some time to look at it tonight and removed the Crank position sensor. Removal was pretty straight forward, only took a few minutes and with the sensor disconnected the car turns over without starting just as anticipated. Once reconnected, it starts right up. Unlike the ignition switch and immobilizer, which when disconnected will not turn the engine over all. Period. So this now leads me to believe the crank position sensor is indeed failing when hot. Ill keep this thread alive until I solve it. -k
  9. Thank you all for the previous input. I have replaced the ignition switch, checked the relays, and opened up the immobilizer (super clean, and dry) under the seat and I am still experiencing the stall problem, but no faults in the durametric software So now I need some clarification on the next step. 1. Earlier I asked about the crank position sensor (CKS) with some good reply's about the (CPS) cam position sensor, so I need to clarify the vocabulary. (@flyingpenguins - your picture points to the CKS but you refer to the CPS) 2. I know there are two CPSs and one CKS. Should I be focusing on the two CPSs, the one CKS, or both? Will they both (CPS and CKS) cause the DME to not see the engine turning over?
  10. Thanks for input guys. Since I already have a spare ignition switch (I buy them in bulk) Ill replace that first. On that topic, I have the original steering lock assembly, not the new updated one. Is there anything to that assembly other then moving parts? There are no electronics involved with that assembly right? That can be replaced with the new model and still use the existing key tumbler and transmitter? I ask because many many many years ago when I first experienced the cheap ignition switch issue a Porsche dealer told me that if I changed out to the new style assembly the car would be immobilized and it would need to be reprogrammed by them. I don't see how that's a possibility, but I quickly learned about the switch only swap myself and have replaced it several times over the years, but maybe its time to start that project.
  11. I have had a good run with my 986 and no problems for a good while, but nothing lasts forever... In the last month the car will randomly stall and refuse to start back up for an undefined period of time. When it happens all the lights on the dash will flash on as if the key has just been turned to the on position. The starter will crank the engine happily but there is no ignition happening. This will last for an unknown amount of time (20 min or a day) and then the car will start right up again. Only to stall out later at some unknown point. (15 min or 1 hour). I have hooked the durametric up to it each time and got nothing, except the last time. P1571 fault 39, pointing to the immobilizer. After searching I came upon this thread from 2009, that describes exactly what I am experiencing, but a solution was never posted. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/28462-cranks-but-wont-start-help-please/ So to get down to point, I have a few trouble shooting questions and steps I will take next; 1.) The ignition switch has been giving me the traditional issues and it probably needs to be replaced (again). If the electronics in the plastic switch are going bad, could they cause this? Engine stall, clean crank with no start-up? 2.) could the P1571 be attributed to a freak accident during the stall that confused the car since I never got this error before? After I cleared it and cranked it with no start, there were no new fault codes. 3.) Im reading conflicting info on crank position sensors. Will they relay a fault code, or not? 4.) I have tried both keys, ruling out a bad key transmitter. 5.) I will check the immobilizer under the seat, but don't expect any water damage. 6.) I will check all the relays. Sorry for the long winded explanation. If anyone has a history with this, or any insight to #1,#2, or #3, please share.
  12. A little oil smoke can be common in these cars. The way I understand it, the horizontal configuration can allow oil to seep into the exhaust and cause smoke on an initial start. A bad OAS will cause poor performance of the engine in general.
  13. One of your nylon balljoints has popped or cracked. You can order a new one. It's an easy fix.
  14. The tappets should be stiff. They are full of oil and you dont want them to dry out. If you empty them you should soak them in oil to allow them to fill up again. They need the pressure to correctly operate.
  15. I had similar problem. I did all the same things you have done. Turned out to be a broken spring on the exhaust valve. I dropped the engine to fix it. Several pics here at www.nutrod.com -k
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