jayhawker

Am I correct that the mechanical parts of the convertible that open and close the top still work even after the emergency operation (turning counterclockwise top open the rear deck lid), but that things just aren't in sync? In other words, they don't completely close or latch? I am specifically curious as to whether or not the lid for storing the top stops opening and closing without doing it manually. I am assuming it will still open and close electronically, just not with the correct timing, but now that I tried to open the lid manually, does the computer shut it off? My top was closed, lid latched. Went to open the top and the main latch to the windshield works fine...detaches from the front and but then the lid wouldn't open, so the sequence of opening the top just stopped. I wasn't able to open the lid with the emergency tool, rotating it clockwise it just stopped to the point I was going to break something if I didn't quit. Trying to rotate it back (clockwise) bolt actually came lose (it is reverse threaded). Anyway, I detached the 5 pin cable to the motor that open and closes the lidr. There are 5 pins on it. I couldn't get colors on the wires to match what was shown in the wiring diagrams of the Porsche manual, so I used some logic in tracing the wires and it looked like the solid green and solid gray wires were supply voltage to raise and lower the lid. The other three look to do with the potentiometer. I assumed ground to the motor was established from it being bolted to the chassis of the car. Applying 12 volts to either of them did nothing. But when I plugged it back in, the deck lid finally opened normal and the top was able to lower into the compartment without issue. However, the top lid did not close, and since then does not work electronically at all. I can now open and close it manually though. So I was wandering if the computer has shut of the operation of it until it is calibrated again.

A few months ago the windows started failing to go up automatically upon closing the top. The windows could still be closed by the switches, but they no longer went up automatically at the end of closing the top. I ordered a new vinyl piece that goes over the metal latch that latches to the windshield, and hopefully that solves the problem with the microswitch then being activated to close the windows. Now my problem is the top won't open. When I go to raise it, everything starts correctly...the latch mechanism that connects to the windshield unlatches and then when it would normally open the clamshell, nothing happens except that I hear several relays clicking away. I see no movement, hear no motors turning, nothing. I put a camera down both sides to see if the latches on both the left and right side of the clamshell that lock it in place are releasing, and they are still both locked, not just one. There is a photo attached showing it latched. So I am guessing the motor that is supposed to move the cable to release them isn't being activated. Trying to use the allen wrench to manually raise the top doesn't work. It rotates counterclockwise several turns and then does nothing except to get so much resistance after a few turns that it stops. I stressed it enough trying to force it, that trying reverse it (to run the Allen screw clockwise), the screw actually came off. It is a reverse threaded screw, and so now I can't even turn it to the right. i am probably going to super glue the screw into it so I can back it off. I have checked all of the fuses that I know of down by under the drivers side. None are bad. I don't know what relay activates the motor to the clamshell? Does anyone have a diagram of the location of the relays that control it? Any other ideas of what could be causing this? I don't believe the microswitch in the windshield has anything to do with the clamshell opening, but once again, I have one on order anyway. Thanks in advance for any help with this! Here is a picture of the latch on t

Will locking the crank at TDC be sufficient? I have seen several articles suggesting that would be fine for only replacing the tensioners.

After my 1999 996 has been sitting for several hours, I hear the typical sound of a chain tensioner not doing its job upon starting, probably for no more than 5 seconds, and then the engine is perfectly quiet. So I am replacing the tensioners one at at ime, starting with the one that is on the bottom of the engine facing up (I think it is for cylinders 1 thru 3 but not sure), because it makes sense that gravity would effect it the most of the three. If my noise goes away, I will probably leave the others be, if not, then I will replace the one form the crank to the IMS. In reading numerous forums, I get that if I am replacing the IMS bearing, I need make sure the engine is at TDC, and even have the camshafts locked. But do I need to do both for just changing the tensioners one at a time? Thank!