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Posts posted by JTT

  1. I apologize for being late to the party.  I am running PS2s in 295/30-18 on my C2 Cab, lowered on B8s and H&R springs.  No clearance issues.  That said, I wouldn’t do it again.  The 295 on a 10” wheel is a bit too much.  I noticed the extra sidewall flex almost immediately when pushing the car on corner entry (yes, mine are N spec).  I’ll definitely go back to 285 on next change.  If you have 11” wheels, 295s should be great.  You may not notice, but this was my experience.

    • Like 1
  2. On 3/22/2020 at 4:53 PM, JFP in PA said:

    I did this for a living; drop the engine down a couple of inches and you will be done with the AOS in one hour.  Pull the intake off and you will have hours of reinstalling, followed by hours more of smoke testing to find the vacuum leaks.  View simply is not worth the climb.


    JFP, as I remember, you can drop the engine down to crossmember level without disconnecting anything but the airbox?  Anything you can think of that has to be disconnected before dropping it down?

  3. I have a friend with PSS10s.  It would seem that "adjustable height", is a bit limited.  10mm in front, 5 mm in rear, at least according to this information seemingly from the Bilstein manual



    996 Turbo / GT2 - PSS9/10 ride height limitations revisited - I've got a set of RUF PSS9s sitting at home in the box and I've been toying with the idea of putting them back on the car but wanted to make sure I set them at the correct height for optimum performance as designed. I've been doing some...


  4. You "may" need adjustable upper control arms or toe arms in the rear.  Lowering adds in negative camber, some have issues, others don't seem too.  I ended up adding both myself, as I was wearing inside edge of rear tires badly.  Thought it was due to the excess camber (which definitely added to it), but rear toe settings I feel were mostly at fault.  A little extra toe in at the rear seemed to make all the difference.  Nice part about the link is they are all solid spherical bearing, so really tightened up the feel without any additional NVH.

  5. I replaced my 4 stalk with a 3 stalk and added my 4th stalk, so yes, it definitely can be done.  You "might" be able to pull it off with the wheel still in place, but its tight working  space.  Not a big deal to remove the wheel, just make sure you disconnect the battery for a while before messing with the airbag and don't reconnect it until everything is buttoned up (or you'll get an airbag warning light that you need to clear).

  6. First thing first.  Pop the little plastic caps off the car and look inside to see if the mounting hardware is indeed in place.  It's clearly visible once the caps are off.  This will also tell you what style connector you need (bayonet or screw).  To install, it couldn't be easier.  Lower all side windows. With the little round caps off the car, simply lift the roof over, front edge first, so the hooks engage the windshield frame, then lower into the receiver connector.  Tighten the rear connector (about 1/4 turn for bayonet, tighten to specified torque for screw type), then fasten the front clamp.  You can now roll up the side windows (note, the little rear ones will not come up unless the front latch is latched).  


    Adjustment once installed is a bit of a mystery, at least to me.  I haven't found a true factory spec as of yet.  It doesn't fit down tight, if it does, adjust it up a bit, or it will scratch your clamshell.  Maybe 6-10mm clear of the clamshell.  I'd also suggest you treat all the rubber seals on the top and windshield frame with Gummy Phledge or something similar to lubricate and soften...helps reduce squeaking.


    Looking at the top, look for the trim bits that clip over the rear latching bits (look like speaker grills).  These as well as the forward latch cover are often missing, but not critical.  Other than that, look at the liner condition and obviously paint.  Beware the rear window at the very bottom is nearly impossible to get clean, due to zero clearance.

  7. Welcome Patrick!  I can confirm the deflector is a significant improvement, particularly if your wife or significant other travels with you.  Deflector up and side windows up, much quieter at highway speeds.  You can sometimes pick them up on ebay or other classifieds but you would have to be patient.  Sunset is easy and fast.

  8. The bar also gives you the ability to make small adjustments in height and angle of the engine which is helpful in remounting the transmission.  Do you have to have one? Nope.  But for 30 mins of fabrication, its worthwhile.  Im not home now, but can send picturs of my redneck home version once I get back, or you can Google it.  Some fancy versions, but simple angle iron and a few bolts work fine.

  9. No problem Roy.  If you put the top into the service position, about halfway between up and down and reach your hand up between the liner and the roof and feel up and down on both sides you should feel it.  Yes, it goes from driver to passenger side, and kind of pulls the top together and into the groove.  


    On mine I couldn't find it on one side, then found it on the other.  It's an elastic strap that is stitched to a tab on the edge of the roof.  On mine, the stitching had come undone on one tab and the strap just kind of fell down into the liner.  I just fished around till I found it, then sewed the tab back on with a needle and thread.


    The strap is #7 in this diagram



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