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JTT last won the day on April 13 2020

JTT had the most liked content!

About JTT

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  • Gender

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  • From
    Halifax, NS, Canada
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 Carrera 2 Cabriolet
  • Future cars
    Dream car - GT3
  • Former cars
    Honda Ridgeline

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Community Answers

  1. I apologize for being late to the party. I am running PS2s in 295/30-18 on my C2 Cab, lowered on B8s and H&R springs. No clearance issues. That said, I wouldn’t do it again. The 295 on a 10” wheel is a bit too much. I noticed the extra sidewall flex almost immediately when pushing the car on corner entry (yes, mine are N spec). I’ll definitely go back to 285 on next change. If you have 11” wheels, 295s should be great. You may not notice, but this was my experience.
  2. Definitely redneck, but it worked a treat. Hope the pictures make sense. The tape was left stationary so you can see the support post is slightly offset to one side.
  3. Maybe it’s an optical illusion, but it looks like the length of the section before the seal is different between the two.
  4. JFP, as I remember, you can drop the engine down to crossmember level without disconnecting anything but the airbox? Anything you can think of that has to be disconnected before dropping it down?
  5. I'd second the spin on adaptor route. It eliminates the bypass, ensuring that 100% of oil is filtered.
  6. I got mine from Jason over at Warehouse 33. Drop him an email if you don't see them on the website, he often has access to items not listed on the site. Offers a discount to Rennlist members and likely RennTech too.
  7. I have a friend with PSS10s. It would seem that "adjustable height", is a bit limited. 10mm in front, 5 mm in rear, at least according to this information seemingly from the Bilstein manual PSS9/10 ride height limitations revisited - 6SpeedOnline - Porsche Forum and Luxury Car Resource WWW.6SPEEDONLINE.COM 996 Turbo / GT2 - PSS9/10 ride height limitations revisited - I've got a set of RUF PSS9s sitting at home in the box and I've been toying with the idea of putting them back on the car but wanted to make sure I set them at the correct height for optimum performance as designed. I've been doing some...
  8. You "may" need adjustable upper control arms or toe arms in the rear. Lowering adds in negative camber, some have issues, others don't seem too. I ended up adding both myself, as I was wearing inside edge of rear tires badly. Thought it was due to the excess camber (which definitely added to it), but rear toe settings I feel were mostly at fault. A little extra toe in at the rear seemed to make all the difference. Nice part about the link is they are all solid spherical bearing, so really tightened up the feel without any additional NVH.
  9. I replaced my 4 stalk with a 3 stalk and added my 4th stalk, so yes, it definitely can be done. You "might" be able to pull it off with the wheel still in place, but its tight working space. Not a big deal to remove the wheel, just make sure you disconnect the battery for a while before messing with the airbag and don't reconnect it until everything is buttoned up (or you'll get an airbag warning light that you need to clear).
  10. Another B8/H&R lowering springs happy customer here. deport pretty much summed it up. Slightly firmer, less body roll, but not at all harsh. Our roads suck too, and it's very good.
  11. First thing first. Pop the little plastic caps off the car and look inside to see if the mounting hardware is indeed in place. It's clearly visible once the caps are off. This will also tell you what style connector you need (bayonet or screw). To install, it couldn't be easier. Lower all side windows. With the little round caps off the car, simply lift the roof over, front edge first, so the hooks engage the windshield frame, then lower into the receiver connector. Tighten the rear connector (about 1/4 turn for bayonet, tighten to specified torque for screw type), then fasten the front clamp. You can now roll up the side windows (note, the little rear ones will not come up unless the front latch is latched). Adjustment once installed is a bit of a mystery, at least to me. I haven't found a true factory spec as of yet. It doesn't fit down tight, if it does, adjust it up a bit, or it will scratch your clamshell. Maybe 6-10mm clear of the clamshell. I'd also suggest you treat all the rubber seals on the top and windshield frame with Gummy Phledge or something similar to lubricate and soften...helps reduce squeaking. Looking at the top, look for the trim bits that clip over the rear latching bits (look like speaker grills). These as well as the forward latch cover are often missing, but not critical. Other than that, look at the liner condition and obviously paint. Beware the rear window at the very bottom is nearly impossible to get clean, due to zero clearance.
  12. Welcome Patrick! I can confirm the deflector is a significant improvement, particularly if your wife or significant other travels with you. Deflector up and side windows up, much quieter at highway speeds. You can sometimes pick them up on ebay or other classifieds but you would have to be patient. Sunset is easy and fast.
  13. I'd trust Ahsai on this one. There are some that would have you do a lot of excessive things. "Best practice" would be to never reuse any fastener, but it's impractical for all but factory race teams.
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