JTT

Thanks Steve, I'll continue the hunt.

Thanks Steve.  Was your AC blowing cold?  Mine seems to be experiencing similar symptoms, but I had discounted gas as my AC blows very cold.

It's right about where the rear quarter window meets the side window.  "If" this link works, it shows what it looks like when the strap is disconnected.  The strap is basically right where the roof is off the rails.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0sCo0f1h0XUkXB0ErhLxCBLL1xtJMjk55iLsa023cd15M-glLfPYOiUZvYLobih_Kcu6sIR4HfVG_LWRKZzjo1w1XmEaat_2z0dPKh30pM7tzai4OtYzyEiRiDqncAT8XC9ySDVT79Q6woBKi8g7jCpbxJJ6YoCdFBSUJxYpLTH3Wer02IpvAFM5paGHRgDbHmPKOFUNDVs4WwjVdxPc2pzlecmJtbJijIWgTzXUWA_Z-t6LgoszAKbEZ3U5mBnXwaEGJ4_ZxI2ZqRwTHLhldmSplJTbt5E100L63cNz0s5Wdfev_I4Qa2orBoFOsdThGZGuGpC9N69tw4DT708TrMsuG9FE3jKBTxSxYoWxF_U89ww1ulSnQhv1z4HKORaEImrlWMnr5-w94cO7TJC_N-SfAZ69YETRDukkwKUV82P4sTnSpvkbopuqsxoJzGPNhnGJDI2vUy5Zn1U6GTHNuhRrjlyOejQl4UBf6F6k9Ih2bZUDlwtAagaWxlswGS8iani2QnGXKDuAFUAfkle64uRQCx4kOeQnPx7Jxb2E2WLJtGLPtaT5jrxWg554U5AfNPJ_gZKQjchlz7_dUMhlb6Zk2p4KExoDAMD7bqN_=w1223-h917-no

Condenser was leaking and that was the source of low gas?

Put the roof in the service position (about halfway between up and down) and reach in between the liner and the roof.  There should be a strap running from driver to passenger side.  Mine had similar issues to what you are describing and this strap had pulled off.  I simply took a needle and nylon thread and sewed it back on...solved.

My apologies John!  

Thanks Jeff!

Jeff, this can only be done with the factory Porsche PIWIS system correct?  

BoxerfanTO, there is an outfit in Calgary that is apparently authorized by Hartech out of the UK (kind of the FSI of the UK, very good rep).  I've no experience with them but at least no border or exchange issues.  http://alpineautowerks.com

Check the tensioning cable. 

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/574384-solved-convertible-top-not-folding-closed-quite-right-pics.html

Just as a follow up to this post, here are a couple of pics.

First is new mount installed.  You can see compared to the pic in earlier post there is a considerable difference in the clearance from the chassis to the carrier.

The second shows the old and new sitting side by side on the bench.  Hope this helps others.

Hey Roy,

Yes, in fact I used the NAPA one (even cheaper than the Audi one).  Working great, but I think I'll buy an Audi one to keep in glove box just in case.  The first time changing this is a bit of a PIA as there are tiny grub screws used to secure the switch in place, but very little room to manoeuvre a screwdriver.  I replaced those grub screws with M4 cap head screws that I ground the tip to a point (like the grub screws, to bite into the plastic when snugged).  As there is very little torque on these, I can now tighten and loosen with my fingers, making the job super easy and quick.

Another thing that seems to cause random electrical glitches is the ignition switch (not the mechanical part, but the electrical part).  I know my car would start intermittently last spring, and occasionally start them shut right back off.  After much worrying about expensive controller damage I took a chance and replaced this switch (>$20 at NAPA) and all issues solved.

Thanks Loren.  I read a lot about exhaust tips drooping low on one side or other, and cabin vibration as indicators as well as leaks and tears.  I just figured there was something more "measurable".  

I have no visible leaks, tears or obvious deterioration (as you can see in pic).  Both exhaust tips are equal height, but I seem to have a little vibration at idle I can feel through the wheel, that I don't remember feeling when I first got the car two seasons ago. 

Thanks Loren!

Does anyone have a measurement for how much droop is too much?  Measured from the chassis to the carrier, not exhaust tips?

There seems to be some contradictory information out there on this.  Did the recommended heat range change from the 3.4 to 3.6?  What I seem to be finding is that 3.4 used a Bosch or Beru "6", but 3.6 went to "5" (colder)??  My particular application is a 2003 C2.  Pelican suggests a "5", while what is in my car are "6", but are not likely originals (can't confirm).  Which is right?  "5" or "6"??

Thanks

Joe

Screw is M4 x .7 thread.  One I used was approximately 20mm in length.  

When I did mine recently, I discovered one of the grub screws had been replaced with a longer screw that allowed me to turn it loose with just my fingers.  After wrestling with a tiny screwdrive to loosem the other orignial grub screw, I replaced it also with a linger standard screw, which I sharpened the tip with grinder first.  Now I should be able to do it next time tool free, and MUCH easier.

Lunenburg is a nice little town for sure.  I think I'd like Texas better in Feb though 

When you say door sill controls, you mean the memory buttons on the driver side correct?  I hadn't really thought about them.

I haven't touched mine, been swamped with work and building a new garage.  I appreciate you keeping me up to date!  I'm horrible at diagnosing electronics.

I'm interested in hearing your progress.  My right mirror has a potentiometer error indicated on Durametric too. 

My right mirror has started to adjust itself to the full, pointing up, position when opening locks with keyless entry.  Memory feature has always worked fine until just recently.  Power mirror still functions normally from the switch, but overtime I have to adjust it back to a normal position after unlocking.  Any suggestions where to look for the issue here?

Thanks,

I used a Kenwood KDC-X300 HU and a Clarion XC 2110 compact mono amp for subs. Amp is mounted to the original amp mount, with enough room for a second compact 4 channel should i decide to upgrade.

I threw in the towel and went for a aftermarket amp and HU.  All installed and working great.

Thanks Richard.  Good to know for future though.