Stefano Buganza

Many years ago it happened to me because of a problem with an exhaust: when hot, it nearly closed, and car didnt start until cold. Hope this could help.

Clear and exhaustive, thank you! ❤

Thank you Loren. So, as I think to have done last topping at higher temperature, should it be better to remove the level bolt to check to drain a little or, maybe, retopping?

Hello, to all,

last week, while performing a normal engine oil change, I distracted myself for a while after removal of the oil pan sump. So, my cousin, who was "helping" me, removed the tiptronic oil pan draining bolt instead of the engine oil pan one .

When I heard behind me "nice oil, very clear"...I had a thrill along my spine .

Anyway, a routine oil change turned in something much more challenging! I studied many tutorials and, at last, had the tiptronic refilled (no removal of the oil pan and gasket/filter change, as the same operation was performed just 5k km ago).

When at last I drove the car, first I had two alarms on (TC off and ABS), but I think this was because the wheels worked free for some time, but at last they turned off. Also,  tiptronic didn't shift to manual until I turned off and on the car a couple of time.

Actually, car works perfect, maybe also better than before, but I have a doubt: I followed the tutorials step by step until the first refilling, with oil pan temperature at 40-45°c, but since that moment, engine kept working for some time, so that temperature sure raised when I have done last refilling (the third one). Have I to do a final check of the level? If so, at which temperature?

Thank you!
Stefano

Yes Judgejon, the Durametric is 6.5! Actually car is out to repaint front bumper, next week I will post a photo!

Getting back to a PCM 1.0 after having experienced all that an Ipad (connected to a CDR) can do will be hard! But maybe even harder is have a car somehow not perfect. I will reconnect temporarily the PCM and retry to use Durametric.

And thank you again for your precious advices!

Thank you Loren, does that mean it is possible for the Porsche diagnostic to make my actual configuration "legal" so that I could use my Durametric?

Alternatively, if I reconnect my PCM, could this turn the car again "readable" to Durametric? If so, I could do this everytime I want to check the car with Durametric...

On PIWIS you can run individual module tests - so you would just skip the PCM tests.

 

Thank you a lot Loren, in fact at the service they told me to be not worried about this, since they can run individual tests, but it's a pity that I cannot use Durametric at his best. And, furthermore, I know that other guys installed an Ipad mini just like me and their Durametric works great. Maybe there is a chance to "reconnect" the chain, interrupted by the disconnection of PCM?

 

Thank you in advance

Stefano

Hello to all, I had a problem with Durametric cable since the diagnostic only has success with engine, tiptronic and instrument cluster modules, but fails with the other ones.

I drove the car (99 c2 cabrio) to the Porsche service in order to try with PIWIS, and they told me that there was some problems, and this BECAUSE PCM WAS REMOVED. My audio system was in fact modified installing a mini Ipad instead of the PCM, but I have seen many others Porsche 996 owners did the same and it seems both Durametric and PIWIS work on their cars.

Any idea? Suggestions?

 

Stefano

Since it was impossible to bleed with Durametric, I went to a Porsche service (at last open!) and they told me pedal is ok and bleeding through PIWIS it is worth to be done only at the next brake oil change.

Unfortunately, PIWIS had problems to recognize all modules...but this need a new thread to be opened  :blush:

O.K. and sorry but it's somewhat difficult to solve this one remotely other than to suggest checking the Durametric website for possible answers.

Yes, I know. I sent the file log to Durametric and I am waiting for an answer.

Thank you Wizard

Stefano

Engine module and Tiptronic are identified, as well as instrument cluster, but with the other modules there is this error message:

Is the Durametric cable new or secondhand ?

I ask this because on the least expensive kit I believe that there's a limit of 3 vehicles, based on VIN.

Yes I know! But this is absolutely new, bought from Brombacher, local distributor also in Europe

At last ABS unit has been mounted, regular bleeding done and pedal was very stiff! Durametric arrived but when I connected it, I had the (bad) surprise to see that communication with a lot of unit was not possible.

Any suggestion?

 

 

 

 

Hello,

When I try to login through Tapatalk, I receive the following error message. Maybe because I registered myself with Facebook?

Stefano

Durametric, which is a Porsche specific tool, will correctly activate the ABS/PSM during a hydraulic system flush and bleed.

:thumbup: all clear! See you later with my brakes definitively fixed!

If I understand JFP in PA correctly, a Durametric will do the trick to ensure that the braking system is properly bled, includIng the ABS module.

I would have thought that investing in a Durametric cable would be a more practical solution instead of throwing money away on a tow truck.

I hope that you get it all sorted.

Sure you are right, and I could try to find Durametric here in Europe in order to have it delivered soon. The problem is that JFP in PA wrote that "to properly bleed the system after changing the ABS unit" a PORSCHE diagnostic tool is needed, not a "simple" Durametric one.

ABS unit is on my way, but I have a doubt since the car is actually in a small car repair shop where I am actually in vacation, without Durametric software-cable and without Motive Power Bleeder.

Do you think it is possible doing by now a "simple" bleeding through brake pedal only and then, when I will get back to Milan in september, do another bleeding also with Durametric?

Last question: maybe doing bleeding through brake pedal only could cause damage to master cylinder or (that is worse!) to ABS unit?

Thank you

 

You are not going to be able to properly bleed the system after changing the ABS unit without a Porsche diagnostic tool.  If you do not have access to one, I would suggest not taking the car apart until you do.

I thought to collect the car with the new ABS unit (obviously if it will brake!), have it at home until the Porsche repair will open and then carefully drive it to Porsche. But if you tell this is not possible, only chance will be to use a tow truck.

ABS unit is on my way, but I have a doubt since the car is actually in a small car repair shop where I am actually in vacation, without Durametric software-cable and without Motive Power Bleeder.

Do you think it is possible doing by now a "simple" bleeding through brake pedal only and then, when I will get back to Milan in september, do another bleeding also with Durametric?

Last question: maybe doing bleeding through brake pedal only could cause damage to master cylinder or (that is worse!) to ABS unit?

Thank you

Try abs-world-online.de

I believe that there is a used one available for € 369.

Thank you Wizard! I immediately bought this one http://m.ebay.it/itm/141615322053 , matching both Porsche and Bosch numbers and seller wrote me it is fully functional. :) maybe the end of the odissey is near!

 

Last update!! I realized I have a "TC off" button on my car dashboard, and looking at the DIY page of Pelicanparts.com, I have seen that in this case, it is needed a "Porsche system tester 2" to do the bleeding. Is that ok? :-(

If so, I have a problem, since here all Porsche houses all closed (and also exorbitant :-/)

 

The Durametric software will also activate the ABS/PSM system during a flush.

 

Thank you very much, nice new that will be useful.

 

Last update is that the leak problem seems to be...at the ABS unit  :censored: !! Under the unit a little amount of oil collected, so, now, I have to found an used but fully functional one, and it is not that easy, especially in Italy and in August  :blush: .

Reference of the unit is 99635575528, Bosch nr 0273004179. I tried to check the price for a new one one at rosepassion.com and I was about to faint  :eek: . Maybe in Germany I will found something on Ebay.

Last update!! I realized I have a "TC off" button on my car dashboard, and looking at the DIY page of Pelicanparts.com, I have seen that in this case, it is needed a "Porsche system tester 2" to do the bleeding. Is that ok? :-(

If so, I have a problem, since here all Porsche houses are closed (and also exorbitant :-/)

You are absolutely right, wizard. I will consider changing the booster only as a last chance. Lot of things are to be considered first, like an accurate bleeding and the chance that the repair kit for the master cylinder didn't work well! Also deteriorated brake lines could be an issue.

I tried yesterday to do the check you told: pumping on the pedal with the engine off, I got a pretty stiff pedal, then, turning the engine on, the pedal "crashed down" to the bottom!

And finally, thank for your last advice: car brakes are still working, and the autorepair is only 1 mile away!

Some of the early model 1999 cars also had problems with a leaky seal at the brake booster. If the seal leaks you get water into the booster and that causes all kinds of abnormal brake behavior.

I would check the TSB and then check the brake booster too.

Checked the TSB, thank you so much!! Now, I found the brake booster on many internet shop (TRW PSA521)...and ALL these sites state that there is compatibility between the part and my car. So, as the part include also the seal (see photo) have I to buy the new seal set too (000 043 204 66) or not?

Thank you Loren, this is very interesting, my car was produced july 1999!! Maybe is it possible to perform some particular procedure to diagnose if the problem is really the brake booster?

I have this car since about one month and never rained (and the car always is in a garage), despite of that, maybe there is water in the brake booster?

PS now I remember...one time at a carwasher :-(