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Everything posted by b3freak

  1. The entire series is now on Patreon and Amazon Prime for those who have searched YouTube and haven't found them. They've moved. https://www.patreon.com/rennvision United States: https://www.amazon.com/v/rennvision United Kingdom: https://www.amazon.co.uk/v/rennvision Germany: https://www.amazon.de/v/rennvision Japan: https://www.amazon.co.jp/v/rennvision
  2. To clarify, I meant the seat belt receptacle. It's pretty much plug and play. Remove the negative terminal on the battery. Remove the seat in question. Unbolt and unplug the old seat belt receptacle. Install new part and plug it up. Reinstall the seat and connect battery. Reset the airbag code with a scanner. Start the car to test.
  3. I know this sounds a little rudimentary , but have you tried replacing the battery? Also, you might need to reflow the connections on the key fob's circuit board. If that doesn't work, then you should be prepared to replace it. I wouldn't advice owning these cars with just one working key fob. Could get expensive if you lose you one and only key fob when the car is armed. You end up having to replace the immobilizer on top of new keys.
  4. Brian, do us the courtesy by installing the original airbox and see if the blinking fuel light goes away. That would help a lot of people that are considering a cold air intake.
  5. I'd reinstall the stock airbox to rule out the possible low fuel blinking light anomaly.
  6. Unless you know how to clean and repair electronics, I'd recommend just going back to the dealership for new key fob programming. Lots of people have opened up their keyfobs and tried to clean and repair the board/contacts only to get frustrated when they've spend time and money and end up with negative results. Most of the ones that end up pleased are the people that realized that these are 20 year old keyfobs and they wear out; therefore, it's time to visit the dealership and have new keys made. That's my advice.
  7. May be time for a new light switch. I was getting some weird light gremlins and just swapped it out. Fixed.
  8. OP, have you tried replacing the tensioner? I had this exact problem. Tried everything. Bit the bullet and replaced the seat belt tensioner. Problem solved.
  9. These are low current switches last time I looked at the schematic. I wouldn't sweat trying to perfectly match the gauge of the wire. Pay more attention at making the right connections and it's always a good idea to solder and shield (i.e. heat shrink tubing) at each break in the line. The next owner would appreciate that!
  10. I have yet to lick my car and the battery is just fine. 😂
  11. As far as I know, the Metra kits have not caused an unwanted barrier for the Porsche slide out cup holder. Cheers!
  12. Paul, The 2002 model did not have fiber optic (MOST) connectivity. Your PCM1 is analog ... which, by the way is a good thing when upgrading the head unit. Metra offers some of the best, most affordable aftermarket stereo mounting kits for double DIN applications... 99-9605B ISO & Double Din Radio Install Dash Kit for 99-05 911, Car Stereo Mount WWW.EBAY.COM STACKED ISO DIN: "COMPATIBLE " WHEN INSTALLING (2) STACKED ISO-DIN RADIOS TOGETHER. For 1999-2005 Porsche 911 (996). Double Din Radio Provision. Includes Parts for Installation of a Double Din Radio or a ISO-Din Radio.
  13. Use the factory cell phone spare plug located behind the center console (CD compartment). The plug offers switched and unstitched 12V. Brown = Ground Red / Green = Switched 12 volts Green / Black = Unswitched 12 volts Yellow / Black = Telephone Mute
  14. Yes, this engine can be "saved" and rebuilt better than what the factory offered. But it all boils down to what YOU want to spend to make it right. Basically, you must learn the three Rs of Porsche M96 ownership as it applies to your current situation: 1.) Rebuild it 2.) Replace it 3.) Resell it
  15. Hey Man, Work from the CDR-220 wiring diagram. (see attached). I used this same adapter. The red harness is to connect C1,C2, and C3 from the OEM CDR-220 connections to the aftermarket radio. This will provide you with RCA preamp and amp on/out connections to the aftermarket headunit. The back harness from CAI is for sockets A and B. Good luck!
  16. Ok, not a problem.The Metra kit you attached looks correct. I have basically the same thing in my 996. But remember, the Porsche (Nokia or HAES) amp in the frunk is a 6 channel amplifier. The CDR-220 provided the amp with 4 preamp signals that are distributed across all 6 speakers in your car. As you can see on the wire harness on the left, you'll need to connect the 4 stereo RCA preamp connection to the Pioneer. The blue cable is for the amp switched 12V signal to tell the amp to turn on and off. Normally, you connect that to an aftermarket radio's antenna output. The Pioneer 80PRS does provide these necessary RCA outputs and so you're good there. Good choice.
  17. Are you changing out the head unit and the amp? What system do you currently have in your car? CDR-220? Nokia/HAES amp in the frunk?
  18. 2002 Coupe... 50K miles. I drive it every weekend!
  19. Keep a close eye on the Expansion Tank. I well known part to fail and leak. Not easy to install, but Jake Raby posted a video showing the process on his Rennvision Channel.
  20. If you've reached the threshold adjustment on the Litronics adjustments, then you may need to manually adjust the tray the light sits on. There are four point adjustments.
  21. Hey Guys, There's been a lot of talk about bore scoring these days and how to possibly identify it before it's too late. One way is by doing an UOA at each oil change. Jake Raby and Lake Speed, Jr. are conducting an online class next month. This looks like a great opportunity to learn more about how an UOA can help mitigate the collateral damage associated with metal contaminated oil. Check it out... http://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/in...lake-speed-jr/
  22. It could be vent valve unit. There was a guy on the forum recently that couldn't get any gas to pump into the car because the pump kept tripping off. He replaced the entire vent valve unit and problem solved. My car doesn't like one station and so when I pump there I have to use the lowest flow rate. No problem for me. I have the same problem with my Tahoe.
  23. 2nd opinions are worth their weight in gold with it comes to these cars. This shop is probably wanting to cover their butts and so they've over estimated on labor. I would do a manometer reading to rule out the AOS. Check out Jake Raby's YouTube channel and look up the video "Does you AOS suck?". http://www.youtube.com/c/RennvisionbyTheKnowledgeGruppe?sub_confirmation=1 When I had my clutch serviced and also did the IMS bearing. The RMS was fine, but the IMS was leaking oil from the flange. I went ahead and had the RMS done as well.
  24. IMHO, it depends on how much you love that car. If you do love it, than take JFP's advice and hook up with Jake Raby and Flat 6 Innovations. If you don't, I would just get rid of it and buy something newer or comparable in performance. The Boxster values are going down the toilet. You can replace the car in many cases cheaper than putting another engine it.
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