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Yes, moving the two switches about two feet so they reach the rear of the center console. Appears they are 22 gauge? All I can find locally is 18 gauge. Will that work for such a short distance?
Apologies if this is a dumb question, but I am working on a GT3 console delete and am needing to extend the controls for the roof and sunshade to the rear center console blanks. What gauge wiring would I use to extend? I think it might be 18?
Andrew911 replied to Andrew911's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Oops sorry meant to post that. Thanks Loren!
When doing some work on my Targa I noticed that the removable rear carpet section is flat out missing the left and right outer mounting points. I see cut outs in the carpet where a bracket of some kind might be that allow the two outer tabs to pop in. Can anyone take a photo of the areas in question or provide a part number? I included a OneDrive link with three photos of my car and a file called Hatch.jpg that I found on Rennlist. I outlined in red what appears to be the missing piece. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aguh2btnWEVMhIYG9_o31b0qOPYzrQ Best I can come up with is it might be #18, or one of the associated parts, in the diagram below. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
Andrew911 replied to Sparkatan's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Mines exactly the same. Glad it's not just me!
Andrew911 replied to Sparkatan's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Mine does this but also feels like the car is going to launch itself. A strong press of the brake pedal is required.
Andrew911 replied to RJ'sGottaDrive's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Welcome! I'm new as well and am also looking to replace the head unit. I'll be going with one of these: https://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/products/car-audio.html
Andrew911 replied to Rolla's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Another five years, another resurrection. Like the above posters, my car's front hood is askew. If you're facing the car, it looks like it is shifted to the passenger side and slightly clockwise. There is a noticeable gap on the driver's side versus the passenger, plus the hood sits higher than the fender on the passenger side. I had some luck loosening the four mounting bolts and repeatedly adjusting them, thus reducing the gaps. However, I'm unclear how a person adjusts the hood to meet the measurements in Loren's picture. In order to adjust the hood it seems you have to loosen the four mounting bolts, lower the hood, make the adjustments, and then raise it back up again and tighten the bolts. The problem I have run across is that upon raising the hood, it moves slightly, resulting in it being off again. Neither the rubber buffers nor the latch matter as I can see the hood is already off when lowering it down. Any ideas?
Manual or Tiptronic? I've been told the Tips have a higher risk, but don't know for sure. Mine is a 2003 with 61k miles. Debating on whether to do it or save the $5,000+ I got quoted for IMS replacement.
Oh, that's weird. My reply got truncated somehow and a link for the AO S keyword got added. I wrote: "Thanks again Joe. I actually did end up using a block of wood to dislodge it. Didn't break anything on the alternator and surprisingly the plastic connector for the AO S is still intact (for now....ha!) Getting it back in may be another nightmare." I know appearances can be deceiving but it looks like you have a lot more space to work. In my car I swear that metal hard line butts right up against the rear bolt. Glad to see I'm doing things right though and just need to struggle with it a bit more. BTW, did you get the revised filler tube? If so, how has it held up?
Thanks again Joe. I actually did end up using a block of wood to dislodge it. Didn't break anything on the alternator and surprisingly the plastic connector for the AOS is still intact (for now....ha!) Getting it back in may be another nightmare. Funny you mention the oil filler tube. That is exactly why I'm removing the alternator. The tube cracked when I removed the airbox to replace the engine mounts. I'm currently stuck trying to get it back in. I used oil on the new o-ring and fill tube, but it doesn't want to go back in easily. Any tip on getting more leverage? I can only get my left hand in there.
This has been my hope for a while, but I don't think so. I have lifted on the bolt and it doesn't budge a fraction of a millimeter. I can feel the bushing up tight against the bracket with no apparent gap of any kind...I can't fit a fingernail between it. If I pull out the left bolt I can rotate the alternator clockwise some so it appears to be loose, but just still attached via the bushing (?). Counter-clockwise is no go.
Thanks Joe. A couple hours with a 4lb dead blow hammer and a two foot piece of metal and it still hasn't budged. What's my tip off when it actually has moved though? Will the bushing sit flush with the alternator?
Apologies for resurrecting a dead thread, but I am too am stuck on the alternator bushing part. When it's stated the bushing moved forward, does that mean towards the front of the car? How do you know when the bushing has moved far enough? Will it be flush with the alternator? Reading the DIYs I knew I was in for a struggle. Each night this week I soaked the bushing in PBlaster. After hammering on it for a couple hours and applying more PBlaster, I'm not sure it's budged at all. With the bolts removed, both the left and right sides rotate clockwise a bit, but don't drop or otherwise move. Any further suggestions or do I just keep at it?
Just wanted to follow up and close the loop on this strange issue. I ended up throwing in the towel and took it to my local shop. There they diagnosed a cable to the alarm module was not plugged in correctly, which caused a lack of signal to the front trunk release, even though it had power. Plugging in this cable correctly instantly got the front trunk working again. They also found two frayed wires under the driver's seat and repaired those, though it was probably unrelated. During my troubleshooting, it appeared to me all the cables to the alarm module were nice and tight. About the only thing I didn't do was pull the thing out entirely to check. Maybe if I did I would have found the cable issue. I'm not quite sure how a cable gets plugged in incorrectly but it's solved now. One interesting tidbit. I didn't know the horn itself was supposed to honk in the event something was left open when locking the car. In my case, the interior lights would light up and a weak horn/squelch/chime sound was heard INSIDE the car. Having only owned the car a few months and this being my first Porsche, I thought maybe this was normal. When the car returned from the shop, the headlights flashed and the horn honked...i.e normal operation. The shop diagnosed this cause as being a failed glovebox microswitch. Sure as ****, when I pulled the glovebox I discovered the microswitch was indeed broken and the previous owner tried fixing it by wadding a bunch of electrical tape around it. UGH! To top things off, the little mount for the microswitch is missing, so a $2 part must now be shipped from Germany. Dealer wasn't able to find any in the US. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, while we weren't able to solve the problem 100%, I learned a LOT about the car, item locations, what fuses do what, etc. Invaluable knowledge for the future. I also in turn was able to help out a fellow Renntech member in Germany with getting his front trunk open via the emergency cable. So, I passed on some knowledge ?