Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral


  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
    PHX, AZ
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1998 Boxster (R.I.P.)
  • Future cars
    2002-2004 996
  • Former cars
    1998 Boxster (R.I.P.)
  1. I need 'em. Don't want them but I'm told I need them so I'm posting here asking for advice on my options. Loud rattle coming from the rear end and I can't pass emissions so I'm shopping. I'm not looking to squeeze extra HP out of the car. I just want it back on the road, legal, reliable, and safe/fun to drive. Found two options on Pelican. OEM is stupid expensive! $2,000 left and $2,200 right...crazy! They also have DEC 50 State Compliant Cats, $684 each. Needless to say I'm leaning towards the DECs. Any input here? Any known issues by NOT going OEM? http://www.pelicanparts.com/
  2. Car came back with a strong PPI and we inked the deal last night. When I finally get the car here from TN I'll share some pics. PPI showed what I hope ends up being horn frame (posted about this in a separate thread). I'll also be replacing the drive belt and coil pack when I get the car. Other than that it looks great. Thanks, Renntech!
  3. I'm not sure but I'll know soon. I decided to purchase the car. It's on it's way from TN. I'll resurrect this thread when I have the car in my possession and I can give more complete info. Thank you, Loren!!
  4. Loren, My mistake. You are correct. My understanding is this was run on a PST2 and there were no alarm codes.
  5. Trying to buy an 02 996 Cab. Did the PPI today and ran across a strange issue. I've discussed it with the PPI mechanic and my mechanic and neither are certain about this issue. When the car is parked in the sun with the doors locked the alarm horn begins to sound after about an hour or so (when it warms up). PPI mechanic says he has seen it on two other cars, all 996 Cabs. Local mechanic says he has seen something similar with the "horn frame." PPI mechanic says this is NOT "horn frame," it definitely has something to do with the immobilizer, and the car is NOT throwing any OBD codes. C
  6. You have all been incredibly helpful, Thank You! Here's where I am in the process... - Looked up shops on pcarshops.com. Found a half dozen places within 60 miles of the current owner. Called them all to get a feel for their business. - Special thanks to mdragon for reaching out the local PCA on this for me. They recommended a shop that was on the pcarshops list too. - Current owner has agreed to get the car in for PPI at shop of my choosing. Looking to make that happen next week. - Current owner also gave me the name of his current shop. I have call into them so we can chat about th
  7. Thanks guys! JFP, great advice. I'm going to check on that next. bBunny, found a couple shops on your website link about 60-70 miles away from the car. I have spoken with the owner now, cool guy and willing to help me on the PPI so i'm going to talk with him about driving the car over for PPI. If i were selling a car I would drive 70 miles for a potential buyer and I think he will too. He also gave me the name of his mechanic but I'd like to find my own. I will ask my mechanic about calling and talking to his mechanic too though.
  8. JFP, I hear you and I agree wholeheartedly. Does anybody know of any reputable shops near Pulaski, TN where I can get an unbiased PPI done?
  9. I found a great looking '02 996 Cab TIP (see pics below) and I really like this car! Unfortunately the car is TN and I'm in AZ. If I buy this rig it will be the first time I've ever bought a car sight unseen which is why I'm reaching out to all of you for some guidance. Please take a look at the pics and details below. Any concerns/red flags here? What more should I ask about? I'm not excited about the prospect of paying $2K to transport a car across the country but NOT having to pay $2K for the IMSB is certainly helping my cause here. From the original ad: Tiptronic transmission, L
  10. I like the idea of an S over a BASE and $12,000 seems like a pretty good deal for the right car. Loved my '98 BASE but I would have preferred an S. ________________________ CURRENT: I'm shopping! Hoping to find a nice 2002-2004 996 Cab Tip back of 85K. PAST: 1998 Boxster (R.I.P.)
  11. I may not be saying the exact right thing. I was told bad head but, no, I opted not to tear down the engine and go through a pricey rebuild to confirm. Unit was a '98 with 75K on it and not worth a whole lot of dough. I also knew if I did the rebuild it would be even more expensive because it was time for clutch, brakes, IMS, etc. Plus, I had owned the car for 10 years and I LOVED it...but I didn't drive it enough because it just wasn't the right car. In 10 years I only put on 10k miles which may have been a big part of it's problems. Bought it before we had our son and my wife isn't com
  12. Recently lost my 98 Boxster to a bad head gasket and I'm looking to replace it with a 996. I'm most interested in the MKII engines and a 2002-2004 is in my price range. Conventional wisdom dictates I should buy the newest car I can afford but I've been told in mid-2003 there was a change made that makes the late-2003 and all 2004s more difficult (i.e. more expensive) to work on than the 2002s and early 2003s. Any truth to this? Do the later model 996 engines have to be "split" to facilitate an IMS change but not the earlier 996 engines? How much should I expect to spend on an IMS retrofi
  13. I just joined today and I wanted to post and say THANK YOU for saving me from a bad 996. My '98 Boxster died recently and I've decided to upgrade to a 996. I thought I found the perfect car...a 2004 silver cab with 65K. It looked perfect so I bought it an auction. During Post Sale Inspection an oil leak was found. Did a search and ran across an old RENNTECH thread that had pictures of an '02 996 with a bad RMS/IMS. The thread had pictures and lots of comments. The pictures were an exact match to the car I just purchased. I was able to get out of the deal and I am very grateful to all o
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.