Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About no1joey

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2006 997 S Cab Tip

Recent Profile Visitors

464 profile views
  1. Bled system again and all seems well, there was air in the system which I saw when bleeding, started her up and the pedal was firm straight away. What a tough job. Was a lot harder than I anticipated but at least it's over and my calipers are new and yellow! They also don't squeal anymore, I put this down to new shims and brake lubricant on the contact points. Thanks for all the help!
  2. Would you say that it just needs another bleed? To be safe, yes. And this time, I would open the inner bleeder first, then the outer bleeder last on each caliper. Got it. Should i hit the calipers or anything to help get air out?
  3. Ok i will bleed again. Just bleed as per normal? Outer nipple, then innner nipple, rear left then right. Front left then right. Should I do anything different before hand or just start bleeding? Im using the dry power bleeder method and I always refill the reservoir when it needs it. I had to do this about 7 or 8 times during the bleed.
  4. What does it mean when the brake pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance? It did this twice when I pushed the brake pedal after bleeding the system and turning the engine on for the first time. After a few pumps it then hardened up. I also noticed the brake fluid level dropped slightly so I checked for leaks and there were none. I pressed the pedal down for about 20 seconds with the engine running, still no leaks. If there was air in the system then wouldn't the level dropping mean the air escaped and the fluid filled that gap? If this is not normal I don't know why as I bled 2 litres through the system. Every drop of fluid in the system is fresh. I just got back from a test drive, brakes work perfectly, hard braking all ok, ABS works fine, no squeaking everything seems perfect. I checked the brake fluid level and it actually rose a little after the test drive. I don't know if the pedal feels spongy or I can't remember how it felt before (been nearly two weeks since I last drove it), or maybe I'm just expecting a completely different feel after replacing the flex lines and rebuilding the calipers... Would the pedal going all the way to floor when I first pressed mean it needs to be bled again?
  5. I put everything back together yesterday. I did probably go overboard with the tightening... i was afraid of leaks and wasn't sure how tight to go. Since I was replacing the flex lines I figured I wouldn't be doing this again so I went as tight as I could go. Hopefully they'll be ok no leaks so far about to bleed them now...
  6. guys im putting everything back on today, with the flex line nuts, how tight? As tight as I can possibly get it using the strength I have?
  7. I was going to try the empty bleeder method and just re fill the reservoir as I go...
  8. Thanks, I have a power bleeder, planning on using 1 litre, then turning engine and pumping brakes a few times, then bleeding another litre. Should I fill the reservoir up past the max mark before bleeding since the lines will fill up all 4 calipers that are now empty?
  9. Thanks I got a lubricant with the centric caliper kit... lube pressure seals and bottom of piston, slide on, don't get any on dust boot. I also got a ceramic brake lubricant for the shims. Speaking of shims do I pop those back in the caliper before putting the caliper back on the suspension or after? Once everything is back on I bleed the system straight away right? The Pistons will be compressed is this ok or do you have to extend them before bleeding?
  10. If anyone else has any other suggestions or evidence that it should be replaced please let me know as I am rebuilding my calipers over the weekend.
  11. Thanks. I might do a few passes over it with some 2500 grit wet and dry to make sure the scratch is clean. Talk about dodging a bullet!
  12. Argh help, found this on the side of one of the piston bores, 100% sure I didn't do it as I didn't go anywhere near the inside of the bores, I picked the dust boots out from the outside - Running my finger over it I can't feel it at all but I can just feel it with my finger nail. I know a scratch on the piston itself needs to be replaced as it can carry fluid past the pressure seal, but taking into account where this scratch is (above the pressure seal on the bore) & how the piston caliper works, is this ok or needs to be replaced? I don't even know if the sides of the piston that touch the bore even go that high...
  13. Thanks. I hope my air compressor is strong enough, its just a cheap 150psi one...
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.