no1joey

Thanks guys, I haven't seen the spring clips yet, I assume they just come off with pliers? I have bought some flare wrenches for the hoses. I am removing all calipers at the same time as I want to paint them they are looking a bit tired. Maybe then its best to remove the flex lines first and plug them? I have bought 2 litres of brake fluid for the bleed to ensure no air is in the system. I don't want to slow down fluid loss I need to stop it as the flex lines will be off for a few days.

Thanks Loren, would any type of copper grease do?

Ok so do I need to remove all the joints numbered 1 through 4 to get the flex lines off? I assume I do If I am removing the caliper and flex lines, there is a little hard line from the flex line to the caliper, this comes off as well I assume? Also if I used foam such as ear plugs or silicone putty to plug the brake fluid hard line would the brake fluid eat this material?

Should I replace these? is this a bad sign of corrosion or just normal? The wheel bolts are extended bolts made by DesignTek as I have wheel spacers on. This is the technical data on the wheel bolts - DesignTek wheel bolts are produced from SCM440 grade alloy steel which has good resistance to a wide variety of corrosive media including nitric acid and some organic acids. It attains its maximum corrosion resistance when in the highly polished or buffed condition. In general its resistance to pitting and crevice corrosion resistance is close to that of grade 304. Stress corrosion cracking resistance of Grade 440 is very high. Each wheel bolt is chrome-plated and salt spray tested 240 hours.

So I'm about to start my caliper rebuild project I have a few questions I hope you will bear with me answering - I bought a 'set' of front and rear flex lines as I plan to change these as well while I have them off, this is what I bought, all 4 are exactly the same. The front flex lines look exactly like this, however the rears do not, they don't have the spring running around the line, did I get sold 4 x front lines? This is what my rear flex lines look like currently -

We apply the brake grease to the back of the pads before the shim is added, and then around the lip of the piston where it contact the pad/shim. Don't go nuts applying the grease, a little goes a long way. Thanks JFP. This brake lubricant is temp resistant to 3000f so I don't think it will run. Also it is meant to be safe on rubber so I don't see it causing any issues with the dust boots, those are around the lip of the pistons right?

Hey guys just wanted to know where exactly the ceramic brake lubricant goes, does it go in between the shims and back of brake pads, on a spot approximately where the caliper pistons will press? I assume if it does go here placing it over the shims adhesive backing isn't such a big deal since the shims lock into place right?

Thanks Loren, no it was something else, I figured out that it does not get removed. It was the vacuum hose thing on the back of the resonator box. It connects to the solenoid thing. I disconnected the other vacuum hose to the bottom of the solenoid so I could remove the air box. What are these vacuum hoses for? one of them goes from the solenoid and disappears into the engine cams... these aren't high pressure hoses are they?

Nevermind .... :)

Thanks. My brakes should feel amazing after new fluid rubbers and lines. Can't wait! One final question, the brake grease goes in between the dampers and back of the pads right? where the adhesive is from the dampers? This is ok to put brake lubricant here?

Which brand of braided lines do you recommend? I've seen some brands with stainless steel fittings boast they are better than zinc plated fittings. Also what's the torque setting for the nuts of these flex lines? Or is it just as tight as it can go?

Thanks JFP! Would this do for brake grease or is this for something different? - www.bendix.com.au/content/high-performance-brake-lubricant And can I re-use the vibration dampeners if using the same pads?

Do I need to remove the flex lines? I was just planning on removing the calipers from them. I might replace them while I am there... I just purchased several different sized rubber plugs to plug the hard line If I do decide to remove them. So If I remove the flex lines, and install new ones, the brake fluid level will drop slightly as it fills the new flex lines and into the caliper.. so I assume I should ensure the brake reservoir is at the max level before beginning as to not introduce air into the system? Plus could you advise on my other questions please. Thanks guys :)

Hi Hilux. Thanks for your reply. I am removing the calipers from the car. Completely stripping them. Might even paint them speed yellow if I have the time. I have already bought new caliper bolts and locktite threadlocker to reinstall them. I have also bought a 150 psi air compressor to blow the pistons out of the calipers. So a possible answer to question 3 is a brake line clamp? Wouldn't this clamp damage the line internals? I have never seen this in any of the DIY's posted on the net. Perhaps another member can confirm if this is the answer to question 3.

Hey guys I am going to replace the o rings and dust boots on my calipers this weekend if all the parts arrive in time, I have done a lot of research on the DIY for removing the pads and calipers however I have some questions regarding the procedure that I can't seem to find a definitive answer on, they are; 1) Should I remove some brake fluid from the reservoir before starting? Where should the fluid level be before removing the calipers? 2) Should I leave the brake pedal where it is or place something against it pressing it down slightly? 3) When removing the brake line from the caliper I assume some fluid will come out, will this stop at a certain point or continue to pour? Should I tie a small plastic bag around the ends? 4) With the front vibration dampeners & rear spider things on the back of the brake pads, some ppl say leave them off while some put them back on, what do you recommend? and do I need to apply a adhesive to get them back on? 5) Do I need to use brake pad grease when reinstalling the pads? 6) My brakes tend to squeal when coasting to a stop, is there something I can do to the pads while I have them off to stop this? Like applying something to the surface or sanding it with some fine sand paper? 7) After reconnecting everything and before doing the bleed I assume there would be air in between the brake line caliper connection through to the brake pistons, inside the caliper, how do you get this air out or will it just fill up naturally when you bleed? Thanks guys I really appreciate your help! :)

Thanks JFP. I dare say the old fluid was original from factory, I don't know if it had ever been changed before. Hopefully my seals are ok. I don't have any leak though and don't have any whining noises when turning the steering wheel full lock.

Productive day also did the power steering fluid, I used about .75 litres does that sound about right? I kept siphoning until the fluid went from dark green to blue. Turning on the car inbetween and rotating steering.

Done. And re the cabriolet fluid, it's slightly different than the 996, for anyone that's interested here is a pic of the reservoir. I siphoned out 90% of the fluid from the reservoir, then filled with new fluid, then put the top up and down a few times, then repeated again. Pics below showing old fluid colour and new fluid in bottle. I noted the level of the fluid inside the reservoir before I started and couldn't quite get it back to the same level as the fluid sits level with the screw and spills out at a certain level, so I jacked up one side of the car a bit to tilt the fluid down, added the required amount put the screw back in and lowered the car, the level was back to where it was at the start. Location Original level Old fluid New fluid Finished level

Going to get a few things off my list done (hopefully :)) during this weekend, one of them is topping up the cabriolet hydraulic fluid. Does anyone know if this reservoir is accessed from where the roof folds in or from behind the rear seats? I know its accessed from where the roof folds in on a 996 I was wondering if it's different for a 997... Also I have no idea how old my power steering fluid is so I bought a large plastic syringe, hose, and was thinking of sucking out what I can from the power steering reservoir, topping up, turning the car on and going from lock to lock, repeating until the 1 litre is gone. Is this method ok? Thanks Guys!!!

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living. The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement. To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu: There are 5 activations related to the ABS system: Start/Stop ABS Pump Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment. On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off. This is normal. In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid. You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications?

Really? I saw a post from someone who said the brake fluid can turn to jelly inside the ABS system if not flushed regularly? This post alone has made me question you guys, sorry. Does the brake fluid travel through the ABS system naturally or is it 'trapped' in there? If it's trapped wouldnt age affect its composition?

Thanks guys. Im looking into a Durametric kit to do the ABS, I know most people have said it's not needed, however been a 10 year old car and only flushing the brake fluid every two years I want to be right against the safe side, plus I tend to be paranoid about my Porsche - thank you IMS issues! They're just $230. I would pay that much for a dealer to bleed my brakes without the ABS method so in the long run it will make sense. Appreciate your help! Now if I can just find a DIY on using a Durametric cable to activate the ABS while flushing!

Hi guys new to renntech don't know why its' taken me so long to join up! Hope to help and be helped :) I have a 2006 C2S, and I am about to bleed the brakes for the first time and you know the whole ABS issue how we can't bleed that without the PST2 thing, I was wondering if brake fluid travels through the ABS when you hit the brakes hard? I was wondering if I bled the brake system, then took it for a drive and activated the ABS a few times, what that push the new fluid through the ABS system? Then I could bleed the system again to get that old fluid out. Would that work? Cheers for your help guys!