no1joey

Bled system again and all seems well, there was air in the system which I saw when bleeding, started her up and the pedal was firm straight away. 

What a tough job. Was a lot harder than I anticipated but at least it's over and my calipers are new and yellow!

They also don't squeal anymore, I put this down to new shims and brake lubricant on the contact points. 

Thanks for all the help! 

I sounds like you still had air in the system.

Would you say that it just needs another bleed?

To be safe, yes. And this time, I would open the inner bleeder first, then the outer bleeder last on each caliper.

Got it. Should i hit the calipers or anything to help get air out?

I sounds like you still had air in the system.

Would you say that it just needs another bleed?

Ok i will bleed again.

Just bleed as per normal? Outer nipple, then innner nipple, rear left then right. Front left then right.

Should I do anything different before hand or just start bleeding? Im using the dry power bleeder method and I always refill the reservoir when it needs it. I had to do this about 7 or 8 times during the bleed.

What does it mean when the brake pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance? 

It did this twice when I pushed the brake pedal after bleeding the system and turning the engine on for the first time. 

After a few pumps it then hardened up. I also noticed the brake fluid level dropped slightly so I checked for leaks and there were none. I pressed the pedal down for about 20 seconds with the engine running, still no leaks.  

If there was air in the system then wouldn't the level dropping mean the air escaped and the fluid filled that gap? 

If this is not normal I don't know why as I bled 2 litres through the system. Every drop of fluid in the system is fresh. 

I just got back from a test drive, brakes work perfectly, hard braking all ok, ABS works fine, no squeaking everything seems perfect. I checked the brake fluid level and it actually rose a little after the test drive. 

I don't know if the pedal feels spongy or I can't remember how it felt before (been nearly two weeks since I last drove it), or maybe I'm just expecting a completely different feel after replacing the flex lines and rebuilding the calipers...

Would the pedal going all the way to floor when I first pressed mean it needs to be bled again? 

I put everything back together yesterday. I did probably go overboard with the tightening... i was afraid of leaks and wasn't sure how tight to go. Since I was replacing the flex lines I figured I wouldn't be doing this again so I went as tight as I could go. Hopefully they'll be ok no leaks so far about to bleed them now...

guys im putting everything back on today, with the flex line nuts, how tight? As tight as I can possibly get it using the strength I have?

Came off guards red, going back on speed yellow :)

I was going to try the empty bleeder method and just re fill the reservoir as I go...

Thanks, I have a power bleeder, planning on using 1 litre, then turning engine and pumping brakes a few times, then bleeding another litre. 

Should I fill the reservoir up past the max mark before bleeding since the lines will fill up all 4 calipers that are now empty? 

Thanks I got a lubricant with the centric caliper kit... lube pressure seals and bottom of piston, slide on, don't get any on dust boot.

I also got a ceramic brake lubricant for the shims. Speaking of shims do I pop those back in the caliper before putting the caliper back on the suspension or after? Once everything is back on I bleed the system straight away right? The Pistons will be compressed is this ok or do you have to extend them before bleeding?

If anyone else has any other suggestions or evidence that it should be replaced please let me know as I am rebuilding my calipers over the weekend. 

Thanks. I might do a few passes over it with some 2500 grit wet and dry to make sure the scratch is clean. Talk about dodging a bullet!

Argh help, found this on the side of one of the piston bores, 100% sure I didn't do it as I didn't go anywhere near the inside of the bores, I picked the dust boots out from the outside - 

Running my finger over it I can't feel it at all but I can just feel it with my finger nail.

I know a scratch on the piston itself needs to be replaced as it can carry fluid past the pressure seal, but taking into account where this scratch is (above the pressure seal on the bore) & how the piston caliper works, is this ok or needs to be replaced? I don't even know if the sides of the piston that touch the bore even go that high...

Thanks. I hope my air compressor is strong enough, its just a cheap 150psi one... 

Thanks. Can you just tape them off or you have to clean the inside of the calipers? i was thinking when you flush the brake fluid that might be a way of cleaning the inside...

Do you use solvent on the pistons as well? Do you need to use a lint free cloth to wipe, do I need to make sure there is no lint on the pistons when reinstalling? 

Calipers finally stripped! 

Pick tools were essential

And these two 3mm metal rods saved my life. I couldnt get the caliper pistons out with just compressed air, they wouldn't come out all the way, & I couldnt pull them out with my fingers, these two pieces of metal got them out, just put the piston groove in the middle of the two, squeezed to grip and pulled them out pretty easily. 

Question re cleaning, is it ok to get brake cleaner/suds inside the caliper piston bores or do I need to plug it up? If yes what should I use to plug it up? I'm guessing tape won't really make it water tight...I want to clean them completely and not sure how to go about this... also what is the best way to clean the pistons? 

Thanks! Doing the fronts today, I decided to start at the rears as most ppl say thats the hardest to get off.

When doing everything back up how tight do I tighten the nuts again? Just as tight as they will go? 

Success! 

I also only managed to spill this amount out of both rear brake lines 

Actually it wasn't a total success, in removing the rear flex lines I bent the bracket that attaches to the back of the rear calipers which holds the hard line. The nut circled was too hard to get off so I'll have to replace this part in order to replace the flex line. 

Cool. Just pulls off to the side with pliers?

Does this part circled come off first or can I just start undoing the nut on the hard brake line as is?

Should I torque a bit tighter then to be on the safe side?

Thanks Hilux & JFP. That photo really helps actually now I know what I am dealing with. 

I have bought all the right tools (I hope) & have the next week off and a hire car. Wish me luck! 

A thin coating will affect torque settings slightly.

Does that mean I should tighten more or less? 

If Porsche recommend anti seize & haven't changed the torque specs then I asusme 96 ft/lbs is still ok? 

Thanks JFP. I went with these ATE oem lines, I couldn't decide on which brand of stainless to go with so just felt it best to stick with oem. 

With the size of the rubber hose plug, I assume something would fit tightly into the threaded connection of the flex lines will work? I have the lines already so I test this before unplugging.

I have the flex lines already, see my other thread, I got 4 lines which all look like the fronts, my rear lines dont have the spring going around the line like my fronts do... did porsche change this or did I buy 4 front lines? or are they all the same front & rear?