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cornontherob
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Looks like out of pure luck I managed to get all the bolts out. Took some crazy angles, but it somehow worked out. Thank you for the help though!
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Another question, how to get to the driver's side transmission mount bracket on the transmisison. How do I get these bolts off without removing the exhaust system? And if I need to get the exhaust system, what drill bit should I just to get the broken bolts of the exhaust system out? I tried removing the nuts and bolts that hold the exhaust headers to the rest of the exhaust system, but they all just broke off.
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Maybe i missed the other end near the top of the block, I'll check again and see if I can get it off that way. Disconnected so far: Airbox and intake hose to throttle body MAF sensor (in baggie off to the side) Throttle body Throttle Cable Fuel lines (return and supply) Coolant hoses (drained and removed) Secondary fan (tubing, ground strap, harness, fan harness, pump) Power steering resevoir Electrical junction All covers Power steering lines Oil filler hose DME Motronic transmission computer etc harnesses in trunk Aluminum support braces sway bar Have left to disconnect: Transmission coolant lines Transmission control harness Transmission vacuum lines Transmission Mounts Transmission gear selector cable Neutral safety switch harness Safety strap for engine Support brace Engine oil dipstick tube Front motor mount CV axles from transmission Fuel tank vent line Anything else I missed Anyone who has done this before, any help is much appreciated!
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So it's come to that point. I don't think I can get anything done while working underneath this car without a myriad of curse words and odd angles. I'm dropping this engine out along with the automatic transmission and am finding the faults that made this engine fail. Right now, I'm following the Pelican Parts article for engine removal. While it's a very comprehensive and easy to follow guide, they do miss a few things. I do have a few questions on the removal itself that it seems to fail to cover. First and foremost, what to do with the oil dipstick tube. I've got it disconnected from the coolant take resevoir in the trunk, but it will not feed through the hole in the trunk, nor do I see any way to safely disconnect it. Is There some special trick I should employ here? Should I just cut it off? It seems to make a juncture near the oil filler hose and the throttle body, but nothing that seems very easy to disconnect either. Any advice here? I'll probably use this thread if I have any other problems. Thanks!
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Automatic Transmission Removal
cornontherob replied to cornontherob's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Okay thanks! -
Has anyone here attempted or performed the automatic transmission removal? I'm in the final stages of prepping the engine for drop, but the guide (I believe by Bentley) is very obscure and hard to understand. Does anyone have any advice or step by steps? I have been searching, but it appears there isn't much. I'd also appreciate any explanations of the "special" tools that are required. I plan on keeping the transmission mated to the engine when the drop is performed, then I can take it off after it's out. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/boxster_tech/37-trans-drop/auto-drop.pdf
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okay thanks! I'll check it and see if anything changes
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Fuel pressure is good, air is gettiing flow, throttle body is clean. It's tiptronic, so the neutral safety switch would be the culprit, but it's allowing the starter to crank. No codes are being thrown. How would I go about testing spark? Just pull the coils and plugs?
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okay here I thought it fixed itself, but it's cranking without starting. New gas was added but it won't start for me. no motion on the tach, c fuses are good. I only have one key
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Just got to investigating. Cleared all the fault codes, fault 25 remained. Said that it was a W lead. Apparently it's fuse E1 on the footwell fuse panel. It wasn't letting the radio get power or the starter crank the car, but now everything seems to be working.
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I just picked up a Durametric cable to finally get to the bottom of why my car isn't starting, and I can't seem to find the codes that it's throwing anywhere. I'm aware of the DME, that was just from when I unplugged the battery. As for the other electrical fault, I don't know where to go to for help. According to Durametric, DME access is routed through the immobilizer, so I think the immobilizer must be okay.
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Will a porsche diagnostic tool adequately diagnose either problem? Will the car even throw a code for a faulty nss?
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After putting the car in neutral and jiggling it around everywhere, still no crank. I took apart immobilizer and no corrosion or any signs of failure. Fuse on the box was fine.
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Yes but as for bypassing it, I don't know for sure if that's what it is, so if it starts when I jump it, I'll replace it.
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My boxster currently won't crank. Key is turned, and fans shut off when it does, but the starter just doesn't crank. I think I have it narrowed down to either the immobilizer or the nss. How would I go about bypassing the switch? The car's battery is fully charged, the starter does work when a direct current. Any ideas?
