Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
I was figuring CV joint. Time to order 2 new axles. any suggestions on quality and price? Thanks
It is definitely in the drive line. I can barely feel it at lower speeds driving down surface roads. Small vibration but a defining lump or loping feeling in the front. It isn't the tires out of balance just in case someone throws that out there. What is going on is not a constant but can be felt majorly at 60-70 MPH. It will go away with hard acceleration at any speed which leads me to believe something in the drive line is loose or has slack and tightens up with torque. I am not getting the typical clicking on the CV axles when hard turning to the right or the left. I would assume that if the transfer case chain was stretched then I would feel this at more of when the vehicle starts to move and anytime I hit the accelerator. This is more of a light acceleration issue. It will stop doing it for the most part if I allow the vehicle to coast or put it in neutral while driving. I have already checked the drive shaft and bearing and all that is fine. I actually think it was replaced before I purchased the car due to how good it looks. I am not thinking it is the transfer case motor as it is not an issue with shifting gears. I guess the best way to explain it is if anyone has had a bad U-joint before or dealt with a gear that has that one small point of resistance when spinning then pops past it. Let me add that it is heat related as well. When the car is first driven for the day it doesn't happen but as I drive it becomes more noticeable and if I drive on the interstate after about 10 miles or more is when it starts to act up. One min its there and the next its not. Like driving over expansion joints on a bridge.
Ok so I got it back from the shop and found that the bearing was bad in the front diff plus one of the mounts was broken. It's been replaced and it does drive a little better but tonight driving on the interstate I felt and hurt the clunking again. It isn't the transmission and definitely not the diff now. It doesn't click when turning hard so I don't think it's the CV axles. I'm pushing towards the transfer case chain. I definitely feel it in the front tires and only at highway speeds. I've searched and seen some issues with the motor on the transfer case and some issues with the chain. The pig doesn't do it all the time which is what is the most puzzling about all this. If it was constant it would be easier to trace down and if it did it at lower speeds as well. Any other suggestions before I go digging any deeper into this problem. She's got 106K on the odometer. Starting to wonder what the hell the original owner did to this thing or didn't do for that matter.
Took it into the shop and found the Front diff is shot. Now I have to find another one for it.
Checked the driveshaft and all is good. Spun the bearing and completely smooth. No play anywhere. Looks like I need to open the TC and check, swap the chain out. That has got to be what it is. It isn't constant but it is annoying when it happens. This is one of those times I really wish I had put that lift in my garage when I bought the house. 30K in tools and I still have to lay on the ground.
I have not removed the shaft yet. I will say this I can replicate the noise and feel by putting it in off road reduction on mode. I'm thinking front diff or transfer case. 105k on the odometer. It does look as tho the shaft us been replaced once already. From what I've read, that center bearing and bushing should be trashed by now and it looks fairly good.
Ok it's hard to explain but I have a hard clicking, thumping sound in the drive line at highway speeds. Sounds like going over expansion joints on a bridge. The side note to this is it feels like a chain dragging on a bad link as well. Sort of like a popping past that link. I have checked the CV joints, drive shaft, support bearing, U joints, and all the bushings. Everything looks and feels fine. Nothing is torn, cracked, or dry rotted. There is a small vibration that is felt as well but not in the steering wheel. Any suggestions welcomed as I really hate taking any of my vehicles to the dealership just due to the fact it's a rip off and half the time they are best guessing themselves and cost you more money for fishing around.
I did run seafoam thru the motor few weeks ago to clear out the carbon but I've got the 3.6l and I don't believe it has the oil separator on it. I have looked and haven't found one. I am leaning a little toward getting a new fuel cap since it keeps throwing the P0442 code at me. Is it possible that these motors are so sensitive to pressure that a faulty fuel cap could cause the bad idle?
So I've searched and searched and haven't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. A few weeks ago I got an O2 bank 2 sensor 1 code. Figured it was bad gas or dirty injectors. Ran some cleaner through it and a few fresh tanks. Last week it started idling rough and surging in park and drive at a stop. Acceleration was good but could still feel a rumble so I pulled the codes again. Had a misfire on cylinders 4-6, random misfire code, O2 still cam timing and such. Changed the plugs and coils and air filter. Still having the same issue. I've checked the plugs and check the coils and all are good and seated. Checked the connectors and they are all pressed in firmly. As I've seen some talk about the battery I have checked it. Voltage was a little low so I had it tested and found it was bad and replaced that. This all started about the same time the temps out here started to drop. Also checked the gas cap and that looks fine as well. Cleaned off the seal on it and made sure it was tight. I've built plenty of cars in my life and tuned as well but this has me stumped. Any suggestions are welcome. Here are the codes it was throwing before I did that work. P2254 P2a03 P0442 P0014 P0300 P0305 P0304 P0306 Still throwing the P2254 code, P2a03, P0442 and a P0017. I doubt the cam sensor is bad and with the surge in idle I'm sure the computer is trying to correct the timing the best it can do. I haven't changed the O2 sensor yet because after seeing the plugs and coils I don't think the O2 is bad just been reading a bad mix coming from those 3 cylinders. Spoke with someone today that thinks it might be a bad hydraulic tensioner for the timing chain. Any helpful insight would be great. Thanks