kabel

Well now... I have successfully baked other car light assemblies apart, but since I never found any posts here that mentioned that method I assumed our headlights were put together differently... I find it hard to believe no one else ever tried this up till now! Off to find a second set of headlamps... :D

IIRC past discussions revealed this assembly is not designed to come apart.

I would also like to replace just the Headlight lens, the PO installed lamps that melted/yellowed the lenses in there. Buying replacements assemblies is the recommended path.

Will you keep us updated with the install? Looks like a good challenge :notworthy:

<_< Meh. Maybe if I lived where that white stuff falls from the sky and had to drive the boxster year round... but I can think of a lot of other fun stuff I could get for $5k.

Though I'd be lying if I said it didn't look cool! :D Looks like they put a lot of thought into the design.

Wow, insanely cool, and that garage :eek: . I can’t think of a better use for what was the trunk!

Thanks for the info TP, There goes the easy way of telling whether or not my oil sep had been replaced already or not ^_^

I don't know their models very well, but I am quite sure the emblem is for a Lamborghini...

... when did the oil separator style change? I was looking through a couple threads about replacing these and notice that the separator on mine looks like what I believe to be the newer style (more lollipop looking).

I've had my 99 2.5L a few months now. Finally had some time to lift the engine cover and what do you know? A similar stain!

scroll up, three posts above yours

There is blue loctite on the threads...

bschucher asked the same question 5 posts above yours... ;)

What rim size?

Yes you can get the switch from a dealership.

I couldn't figure out how to get the center console off but you can see the switch if you look in there... I got lucky and turns out the connection was just loose on mine. Re-seated (poked) it and it worked again. Good Luck!

1st guess is bad hand brake micro switch

+1

Does your "Park" light on the dash come on when you pull up on the parking brake?

If not then check out these threads from the rennlist forum:

"Top Wont Go Down"

and

"Hmmm... Top Button dead"

If you are at all worried about being able to sustain maintenance costs, stick with the Miata. The Miata is a very friendly car to work on and has just as good of a online community for support as well as many local Miata clubs you could hook up with.

I am fortunate enough to own one of each. I started with the Miata and learned how to work on it which gave me the confidence to do basic maintenance on the Boxster when the time comes.

If you have done your research here on rentech (also check out rennlist.com and 986forum.com), and you still really want to find a Boxster, you will hear how important it is to get a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection). Do it.

I love both for different reasons and the same reasons. The Boxster is my daily driver and I love it. The Miata is now our weekend autox toy and I can’t think of a better combination. Choosing one over the other would be difficult (for me) having spent plenty of quality time with each. Though from a DIY mechanical standpoint, the Miata seems easier to work on and parts are less expensive.

Hope that helps a little.

my guess would be worst case $18500 - best case $21500

The yokos are "W" speed rated, signifies a maximum speed capability in excess of signifies a maximum speed capability in excess of 149 mph, 240 km/h... I think the Pilot Sports are "Y" rated meaning the top speed of the tire has been tested in excess of 186 mph, 300 km/h.

Is that IE 5 for the Mac that discontinued in 2003?

umm... yeh. I know, I know, I really do need to upgrade my computer here at home :embarassed:

The Tech Glossary is really a cool feature, thanks fo the hard work.

Nicely done. Thanks!

(Though I discovered it does not work in IE 5.1.7, but works fine in Firefox)

If your wheel is the same as the one on the Boxster, have a look at this thread:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...hl=horn+bushing

The rubber bushings might need some attention. Not all that hard to fix this.

I was about to revive this thread because my radio would not shut off like many of the above posts (Up until this morning it operated as it was supposed to)… but had a small revelation about this and went out to test it.

It has been about 45 min since I turned the ignition off removed the key and exited the car, all indicators and LED panels are off. Top is down, alarm not activated. Radio can be manually turned on and off. Turned radio on, exited the car armed the alarm. Radio still on. Disarmed the alarm, entered the car, inserted the key, turned the key (but did not start the car) and closed the top. Closed the windows turned off the ignition and removed the key… viola the radio faded to off after a few seconds. So is the key (no pun intended) here to have the top up, or is it just a fluke?

WD40 is not a lubricant. Use some white lithium grease.

Also do a search, I seem to recall more than one recent thread regarding clutch peddle squeaking.

Glad you know this stuff so well Loren... I saw his diagram and immediately thought it was a grenade!

Mine were super tight too. Keep at it. I used a "L" torx and clamped on a vice grip for additional leverage.

Thanks to all contributors to this topic.

I just made this repair yesterday. It is nice to have a horn again, I could have used it several time over the past few days. <_<

Thought I would add a pic to the thread of a bushing filled with the silicone.