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Gcalex

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  • Content Count

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About Gcalex

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Lebanon, NH
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    Lexus IS300
  • Future cars
    996 TT
  1. Hi Loren, Many thanks! Armed with the tip to remove the spring, I found the mystery "hold down point", and since the instructions indicated that the lower tab ought to just come-out, I give it a little more "elbow" and it came free. Having the instructions were a big help. Cheers, Alex
  2. Hi Loren, Yup, I saw that DIY, and have the door panel off already; I.e., I think it has taken me as far as it can... The issue is that I don't know how to get the complete handle/pull assembly off the door panel. The outer cover of the handle pops off, but the part that has the big screws running through it (into the outer door structure) is held on in some way that does not seem obvious. I imagine that if I just start removing every screw I can find, I'll eventually get it free, or determine that it is somehow "bonded" on. Hope was, however, that there was some diagram somewhere that said something like "push this up, and remove this screw (with a little arrow)"... Or some one knows for sure that it does not come off easily... -- Alex
  3. Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would just latch on to this one, since it mentions the door handle, even thought it does not really address it. How does one remove the part of the door handle that looks to be attached to the door-open lever? I know that the outer-face of the handle just pops off (though mine actually had a jammed key that turned "pop" into "break")(thank goodness for 5-min epoxy), but I'm talking about the part that makes up the inner-face of the handle (the part that faces the door panel). I've already pulled the door panel, but there are screws all over the place, and it is not clear which are the ones that need to be removed. As an added bonus, there looks to be another plastic catch near the bottom, but I can't tell if this something that is melt-welded in (as many of the panel parts appear to be), and even if it is not, I can't tell what sort of catch is holding it in (and the last thing I want to do is break that tab, as it looks like epoxy is not going to help me much of that one). Any insight?
  4. Had to do this removal, and found that for the non-set-screw knob, it was easiest to take a vice-grip plier and grab them *hard* on to the lever shaft a little below the bottom of the knob, and use the plier as a solid surface to lever the knob off with another set of regular channel-lock pliers. I had to use the channel-locks to "walk" the knob up a quarter-inch at a time (moving the vice-grips up after each quarter-inch move), but after a few repetitions, the knob came right off. No broken mirrors, glasses, or foreheads… :)
  5. Yes, like I said, I know about the rams being different. The syringes may be fine, because the way the system works, it would probably be ok to just change the size of the rams, and use the same pump. I'm hoping that someone has tried it, and knows for sure that it either does or does not work. Thanks!
  6. Hi, Does anyone know definitively whether a 997TT rear wing hydraulics pump will work/fit in a 996TT? My understanding is that the height that the wing lifts to is different in the two cars, so I think this would imply that the lift rams can't be used, but given the way the system works, I would think that that pump section would work fine (assuming that the mounting holes are the same, etc...). Note: I realize that the mounting bracket system is completely different on the two cars, but if the screw holes line-up, then off hand, I don't see why one could just swap out the brackets, and install... Thanks in advance! Alex
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