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gschotland

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  • Content Count

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About gschotland

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    NJ
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Boxster S
  • Future cars
    Boxster
  • Former cars
    TR6
  1. Ordered two new Bosch sensors today and will report back after I get them installed. kbrandsma says no connector cleaner. I think I'll try his suggested contact enhancement method before Stabilant 22, which I'd never heard of but looked up; I'm skeptical of magic potions. :eek:
  2. They are non-Bosch with the correct OEM type connectors (no homebrew connections). I'll be replacing them with Bosch with OEM connectors. I couldn't see any issues with any of the wiring.
  3. It's been a buyer's market for 986s ever since the economy took a crap in '08. You have nothing to lose by low balling. There's no end of cars available. Don't fall in love and be prepared to walk. You can always come back when/if the seller moves into reality. Always make the deal subject to a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) by a qualified Porsche specialist. That's the best $200-$300 you can spend. Not having a pretty clear picture of what you're buying can be costly later. I bought my '02 S w/67k miles in May '09 for $16k. Admittedly it was from my brother, but we felt that was realistic fair market value at the time. Today w/80k miles I'd be hard pressed to get $13k. From sources like Edmunds.com and KBB.com I'd focus on trade-in and private party values. For a really clean, inspected car you want to be in that range.
  4. This evening I swapped the Bank 1 & 2 sensors. While doing this I inspected each sensor and saw no oily residue or any differences in their appearance. The car fired up fine, I cleared the codes, let her come up to temp and then checked the codes again. This time they were P1115, P1117 (both Bank 1) essentially the same codes I had prior to the swap on Bank 2. There was no CEL. I reset the codes again, took the car out for a 20 min drive and re-read the codes. Same P1115 and P1117 but now P0134 as well, which appears to be the Bank 1 version of P0154. I let the car rest for an hour, reset the codes again and then took another 20 minute drive. This time I got P1115, P1117, P0134, and then P0140, which is a Bank 2 O2 sensor code. Thankfully no CEL so far. Things are looking up! Is it safe to assume that the two sensors now on Bank 1 are toast? Any suggestions on the cause of P0140?
  5. I'm going to try swapping left and right first and see what happens. Is it advisable to try and clean the sensors or let any residue burn off the natural way? JFP, I've seen a number of posts regarding these and related codes in which the end result almost always seems to be replacement of the sensors due to issues with their connectors (not that I'm looking for a reason to replace them). It's just a little more than odd that both Bank 2 sensors developed issues at precisely the same time and two of those issues are the same (P1118 & P1119). Do wires to these two sensors alone meet at one point elsewhere in the circuit? While changing the AOS I saw the connector which runs to the O2 sensors (I think), but I'm assuming it goes to all four.
  6. Last year I replaced all four 02 sensors (w/OEM connectors) on my '02 S at 70k mi due to a CEL. Recently at 79k I got CEL codes P0154, P1118 and P1119, all Bank 2 sensor faults. I read that these may be caused by a failed or failing AOS. Sure enough, there was a strong vacuum when I removed the oil filler cap, but none of the telltale mushroom clouds from a totally failed AOS. The car's been running great and gas mileage has been fine (low 20s), so I thought I had a little time. Using the Durametic I reset the codes but they came back immediately. After 800 miles I finally found the time to replace the AOS. Once again I reset the fault codes a few times, but they came right back. The car hasn't been driven since the AOS was replaced, but it was started and run for 10 minutes to get it up to temperature before the codes were cleared; this made no difference. Did my failing AOS cause permanent damage to the Bank 2 sensors, necessitating replacement? I'm not looking forward to shelling out another $300 for two new ones after only 10k miles. I was thinking it would make sense to swap the Bank 1 & 2 sensors to see if the faults move to Bank 1. Before going through all that, is there a possibility the codes could go away by themselves with a couple of "drive cycles"? If so, how long should those cycles be? Thanks!
  7. You might get a better response if you post your question on the 987 forum. From what I've read there are less of the 986 issues with the 987, but the cars aren't as old, so time will tell... According to Jake Raby at Flat6Innovations, who did the IMS bearing retrofit on my '02 S, he's seen some IMS failures on '05 987's. I think I read (and I think he told me) you'd be better off going for an '06+.
  8. It cannot be repaired. Definitely replace with a new one, and don't buy from eBay. I just purchased new from Sunset Porsche, cost was ~$200 delivery in USA (likely cost prohibitive to ship to UK - but ask). This is an easy job, ~2 hrs if you have no idea what you're doing (like me). There's a very good 986 DIY section in the forums on PelicanParts.com that has step-by-step instructions with photos. Before I knew about that one I used this: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/ Good luck.
  9. I recently installed a pair of Focal 100 CVX coaxials that are 59mm deep and they didn't quite fit. They're still sitting loose because I'm afraid the grills will snap if I try to screw them down tight. Haven't figured out yet how to deal with this. I agree, go no deeper than 55mm.
  10. My '02S is in need of new rear lower controls arms, the one that's shaped like a fork on one end. Vertex Auto sells remanufactured arms for $149 apiece and Sunset quoted me $294 apiece for new ones. Anyone have first hand experience with the remans or an educated opinion on which direction to take? My tendency is to take a chance on the remans as there's such a price difference and I'll be doing the work myself, so there will be no repeat labor cost if they don't last. Here's the link: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/128301%...rack%20Arm.aspx Thanks, Gary
  11. Thanks for tips, guys. Is it possible to see the part number on the coolant tank without removing it? The first owner may have already replaced it (fingers crossed). For an '02 what would the original part number be? And if I do need to replace it, what part number should I look to purchase (what's the latest)? Someone mentioned that there are 7 versions of the tank. On the serpentine belt, it that something I can pick up at AutoZone or is it best to stick with Sunset or some other reputable mail order place? I live in NJ. Being in real estate development, I've got LOTS of time on my hands these days, so I thought why not take a road trip for a few weeks. Planning in early March to go to Mississippi (definitely Natchez, not sure where else yet), maybe Memphis and possibly Austin, TX. Still doing research. Should be fun just to get the hell out of here for a while. I need a change of scenery, badly. Gary
  12. I'm planning a 3k+ mile road trip in an '02 S that I'm buying from my brother. He's the 2nd owner and was diligent about maintenance, as was the first owner. No corners were cut on repairs; if it needed to be done, it was. Current mileage is 68k (he bought it at 43k). Brake and tires are in excellent shape. He's had none of the typical cooling tank, MAF, AOS problems. As far as I know none of the O2 sensors has ever been changed. Ditto for the serpentine belt. Given the car's mileage, is there anything I should repair or replace because it's only a matter of time before it'll have to be done? I've been thinking about investing in the Durametric software to see what codes pop up. Thanks, Gary
  13. Try EuroTire on Rt. 46 in Fairfield. They've been around forever (I've been using them for 15+ years) and are owned by long time PCNA members. They're not the cheapest out there, but they know what they're doing, sweat the details, and work on tons of high end cars, including many Porsches. Gary
  14. My brother lives near Princeton (NJ) and is looking for an independent Porsche specialist to service his '02 Boxster S. For the last two years he's been using a shop in Morristown, but it's really inconvenient and the two local dealers are not a cost effective option. Back in the late '80s there was a Porsche/VW/Audi shop near Newtown owned by a guy named "Skip" who serviced my friend's father's fleet of Porsches and Audis, but I can't remember the name of the shop and lost contact w/my friend 10+ years ago. Can anyone recommend a really good shop in central NJ or in Bucks County with in ~45 mins of Princeton? Thanks, Gary
  15. Guys, thanks for the all the responses to my original post. I found out a few days later that these wheels are called "Cup II." Finally got around to installing them today and they fit perfectly. Look pretty good too. Gary
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