Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

pilhaus

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by pilhaus

  1. Thanks Angusc for tips, but after all that is not the problem at the moment. The problem is not shown in the posted pictures but I can add one of that piston what really is stuck. Somehow the dust cover has been missing from it and you know what it does for the surface of piston... In the end the caliper can be even 'opened' or make it to half pieces. That's another story can you ever make it a functioning caliper anymore... Btw, I tried already to get this out with the tools what I have at home garage and with means not to break anything more. Have to admit that it's really stuck. At this point I refer again to my original post; I just would like to know the length of one caliper piston and is the length same in all 6 pistons? That one piston has to be replaced anyway so I need to order the part before DIY work continues...
  2. Started to change new discs and pads to front. Of course both sides have one piston which are more or less not moving properly. Actually driver side has one totally stuck piston which has to be replaced... Anyways, Brembo doesn't sell any repair kit for these and from local Porsche dealer You can only buy totally new caliper. Haha, not a problem if you have on extra 1000 euros in your pocket... Does anyone know the length of caliper piston? Dust cover has marking 44 so definitely diameter is 44 mm but what might be the length? And is the length same with all 6 pistons? I have started to notice that with this car it's better to reckon with enough spare parts before starting anything than notice during the DIY job that you need something...
  3. Finally I had time to post a solution to my problem what was fixed like 2 months ago. Here's a short story how everything went: - both tank pumps were changed --> car worked normally couple of runs, then same s#¤t started again - HPF pump was changed, luckily I found a spare part with 1 one year guarantee --> no help at all to original issue. At this moment I lost me patience and changed the repair shop... Another shop started to investigate the problem. Soon I got a phone call from the second workshop and I was explained that everything points to the fact that DME (ecu) is broken. New DME unit at local Porsche dealers costs here in Finland around 3k€ and you need also 1 hour PIWIS time to copy the original sw for it. Anyhow, I was not willing to pay that money for it especially if the problem is not there, you can't return the DME card to dealer. It's a single-use. So the original DME unit was sent to some other workshop that fixes the cards. After 2 weeks got the unit back and they didn't basically find anything else except couple of bad soldered joints... Meanwhile I had had discussions with my friends about the problem and also with the owner of the first repair shop and solution might be to install some extra relay and take some 'juice' for it behind the ignition. The original problem anyways was that the tank pumps loose the current. I proposed this to the second workshop and they started to investigate how this could be done... And then the original problem was finally found. Behind the relay/fuse panel in engine room there was found an extra immobilizer with some extra relays. After removing the relays and immobilizer and fixing the connections, car fired up and stayed running without any problems. And has worked ever since 'like a buick'. The original idea to put another immobilizer to the car was probably good (try to steel this car you fools) but no one thought what this might cause in the future.
  4. What about this HU, has anyone tried? Should be fully compatible with Cayenne 2004 - 2010 WITH Fibre optic cable or Bose Sound System PORSCHE Cayenne Bose Sound MOST Autoradio Android DVD GPS Navigation Bluetooth http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-Cayenne-Bose-Sound-MOST-Autoradio-Android-DVD-GPS-Navigation-Bluetooth-/231849562167?hash=item35fb4f9037:g:OGYAAOSwmtJXZ-Ss
  5. Phollero and Lewis, thanks for quick answers. Good points and good ideas. Some more information and answers... When the 'turd started to hit the fan' first time for me, I had to crank maybe 2-3 times until it stayed running. Fuel tank level was showing about 1/4 level (range less than 200km). I drove to the gas station and filled it up full. After that, no problems within next 400 kms, car run perfect. Symptoms started again when fuel level reached around that 1/4 level. Actually it went so bad that when I finally got it running, I drove straight to this mechanic who has Durametric... I had to left the car there because after fault code reading, car didn't want to co-operate any more to drive back to home. After all (and behavior how it worked) the mechanic also was willing to try to fill the tank so now the fuel level is about half tank. Battery connections and ground connections have to be checked, that's definitely the first thing where to continue. Still my engineer mind wants to rule out some of the ideas... And please correct me if my thinking follows the wrong road... - blocked fuel filter / regulator --> nope, they either work or not, those are mechanical things anyway. Cranking time hasn't increased and when it runs, idling is totally normal. Those were also not changed with the pumps, maybe need to be changed still... - evap blockage --> my opinion no, if there's a blockage, it stays and doesn't go away by itself - tank ventilation --> fuel cap has been removed, didn't affect anything - MAF problem --> hmmm... after all, big maybe... odometer shows around 131tkms, so maybe the MAF's are coming to their end --> at least cheap and worth to try to start without MAF's - fuel problem is totally bluff (red herring) --> the fuel problem is actually the way what has been followed so far, maybe it's time to open the mind more and think also some other faulty sensors etc. But as a question; if you have e.g. a faulty camshaft sensor, can it work every now and then? Shouldn't it at least give some fault code at some point related to timing etc.? I'll let you know when things go forward on this.
  6. Hello to all, I was a happy Porsche owner only for couple of days until problems started after buying the car. As the title says, car starts but dies after running a short while. The car has been staying now on a local Porsche mechanic but so far (imo) the original problem has not been found. As the car was attached the first time to Durametric, of course no fault codes were caught. Typical problem (we both thought), fuel pumps in the tank should be changed. So those were replaced with original VDO pumps. But the problem stayed. Next reasonable action was to change the HPF pump. That was replaced with 1 year guarantee spare part, so it should be okay. But same sh#t continued. Except the mechanic was able to run the car couple of days ago like 5 kilometers without any problems. Until he tryed to start the car again. This is what I also experienced when the symptoms started, car needed maybe 2-3 cranks and then it kept running totally fine. So car hasn't stalled even once when driving, only soon after starting. Lot of writing already (sorry for that, hope someone still keeps on reading) but so far only thing what has been found is that something stops the fuel pumps. Relays for fuel tank pumps have been bypassed, no problem with those. Durametric shows getting fuel pressure until pumps stop so fuel pressure should be okay. Ecu gets the 'running bit' so it doesn't stop the pumps. So finally the question, what next? I'm not willing to spend any more money to change even a single fuse without some guarantee that it will fix the car. I've been digging forums like hell and of course I have found some good guesses of similar cases with bad fuel problem, MAF problem, fuel pressure valve problems, camshaft sensor problems etc. And according to seller, he didn't suffer from this problem. Maybe he lied, maybe not but at least he didn't know anything about cars. Or he was just a freakin' good actor. And final words so far, when I last time drove the car (when it stayed running), it run totally normal. There was no lack of power, it idled smoothly etc. Good ideas are very welcome. Thanks beforehand. Ps. And whenever the problem is solved (with Your help or not), I'll promise to post the solution here. ;)
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.