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blake7even's Achievements


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  1. As many of you know you can remove and 'plug' the Helmhotz resonator with plumbing parts (1.5" tank connector+cap) or 'orange caps' but search as I may I couldn't find a cheap way of getting a silicone hose from the factory air box to the throttle body. Installed tonight and tested is a 45deg elbow reducing silicone hose. Sizes 90mm to 80mm ID. Got this from eBay for £10 and got it in black to boot so it looks more factory. It comes in long so use your original hose to cut it. It's not quiet square cuts and also cut 5mm or so big. Use the hose clips to mark your cut, tighten them then cut against them. I don't have pictures of the cutting but it's pretty self explanatory, match the shape of the original! Reuse your hose clamps and that's it! The silicone hose from fabspeed and the like is £70 or more now and that's just silly. Good luck.
  2. Just a quick one to say I've got a full IMS install toolkit and I know most people only need this for a day and it's £200 odd. If anybody wants to borrow it / rent (payment in the stable currency of beer.) just PM me. Cheers Paul.
  3. Well I'm a big fan of Nor Cal! Driving to So-Cal from Chicago in October but not in a Porsche unfortunately. Just an Alamo effort but we have driven from San Diego to Orcas Island all through your way. Anyway that comment helps, as the light is always on, always from the moment the keys goes in so the car thinks something is forever locked. Cheers
  4. Richard, I'm in Chiswick, West London and I'm happy to drive out your way to take you up on that kind offer. New to the forum but I assume there is a way to PM me so we can sort out an evening or weekend where I could get your help. Thanks. Paul.
  5. sorry I mean that the thread I started needs no further input as I have what I need. Apologies for the confusion.
  6. Richard, That link closes the thread. It's all the info anybody could want to diagnose the issue. I'll try to check every switch and resolder the joints. if that fails I'll buy a go to an indy to detect the actual part to replace. Thanks for your help. Last point and I'm sure it's related but the little lock switch on the centre console is always on. I'm new to Porsche kettles so I'm not sure if that is correct or not but it doesn't go off.
  7. Thanks Richard, this may start to make sense. I guess then the door latch micro switch detects door locked or unlocked. The handle switch drops the window there must be a third switch in the A pillar at a guess to detect door open. As my window drops and the door open beep sounds on door open the latch is a likely culprit. time to get the multimeter out. I'll report back as so many other threads finish with no conclusion. Cheers.
  8. with engine off Unplug the MAF, Go drive. If it drives well again it's your MAF. Clean MAF (with electrical contact cleaner or MAF cleaner only) don't touch the wires with anything. Unplug battery for 10mins while installing MAF then drive again. If still bad replace.
  9. Hi, I have recently dropped into the water cooled Porsche world coming from Aircooled VW's and Early 911. Love the car & have been working through the typical faults (Dirty/bad MAF, filthy TB, etc.) This one has beaten me. I get no Beeps when locking the car with fob. none. I get two beeps when unlocking with the fob. To test to see if it is a door open I have; Locked the car with the front boot (trunk) open = single beep on locking, double on unlocking Locked the car with the engine lid (decklid) open = single beep on locking, double on unlocking Locked the car with cubby hole open = single beep on locking, double on unlocking Locked the car with passenger (LHS UK model) door open = single beep on locking, double on unlocking Locked the car with the drivers door open = single beep on locking, double on unlocking I keep reading that it's something open..... I don't think it is. Both doors window drop when opened, so the handle Microswitch works. Both doors change the alarm state when open so the latch microswitch work. Anything i've missed? Cheers.
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