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The driver's side rear brake light on my car is working intermittently. When I first start the car, the brake light functions normally. As soon as I shift into gear, the brake light goes out and stays out (even if shifting back into park). I checked voltage going to the light fixture and there isn't any (to the brake light only). There are no error codes. Anyone familiar with the wiring that possibly their is some kind of control module going bad? It happens to consistently in the patter I described above to be a short in my opinion.
I worked on this again and I cannot get that bolt out. It snapped flush with the cover. I tapped and drilled a hole for an extractor. I get good bite with the extractor but it will not budge and I'm afraid I'm going to break the extractor off if I try harder. I've tried heating it as well. So now I'm not sure what to do. Maybe take it to a machine shop? I don't feel comfortable going larger with the drill bit and retapping as I don't know how much mass I'm working with around the screw. Even though I used a center tap, I am slightly off center as well since the bolt snapped leaving one side slightly higher than the other. Any other thoughts?
By the way, can you clarify the procedure for removing the coils. In my workshop manual, it specifically states a twist procedure to remove a couple of specific coils but the others just say "remove". For cylinder 5 as an example, it just pulls out or you need to turn it or...?
engine was cold. Thanks for the suggestion Loren
I was attempting to change the spark plugs on my 2011 Cayenne s. The first coil I attempted to remove (cylinder 5), I snapped the bolt. I attached two pictures showing a close up and one farther out showing the coils for 5 & 6. I haven't attempted to take the coil out and I'm not clear what I'm facing. If I took the coil off, would there be a shoulder or something to get a vise grips on or am I looking at drilling a hole and trying to extract it? I also didn't attempt to take any other coils off for fear of breaking another one. On the picture showing the coil for cylinder 6, this is ready to unscrew at this point and remove the coil, correct? Any help would be appreciated.
I will be changing spark plugs in the near future on my wife's Cayenne S (2011). I've started searching for procedures on how to do this. Any special tools or tricks to get to the coils, removing coils, and then access to the plugs themselves? If anyone is aware of a write up on this, I would certainly appreciate it! Finding DIY stuff on a cayenne is much harder than my 911!
Dan C replied to Dan C's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thanks for the confirmation. I ended up moving the crank slightly from TDC, locking the cams with the double sided tool, then locking the pin in TDC. It was just off enough that it was difficult to get into the slots combined with the extremely limited access to the top plug with the engine in the car. I was doing this to remove bank 1 tensioner as it had a slow leak. I couldn't see a crush washer on the bolt and sure enough when I took the tensioner out, someone forgot to put the crush washer on. Why they took the tensioner out in the first place, who knows. Took it out for a test drive only to find the clutch starting to slip! Haven't driven it much to diagnose further but it seems really early to have the clutch slipping at 70K miles. I've driven it less than half of those miles so maybe a prior owner was not very efficient at manual transmissions. Anyway, looks like a clutch and a new version of IMS may be in my future soon.
I am trying to lock the camshaft using the LN Engineering tools. On the LN pdf showing the ims replacement procedure, it shows locking the camshaft by locking only the bottom camshaft (lower green plug on bank 1). On rennlist, I was told that for the 3 chain engine (which mine is) you are supposed to lock the top and bottom. There is a double sided tool in the ims pro tool kit but the blades which insert into the slots are wider than the single sided tool and one of the blades is shorter. I can't get this tool to insert into both slots (top and bottom). The engine is in the car so its really hard to see. To me this double blade tool doesn't seem to fit into the slots. Do you really need to use this double sided tool to lock the top and bottom or do I just use the single sided tool? The single sided tool fits nicely in the bottom slot and I can definitely tell it is engaged.
Dan C replied to Dan C's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Any recommendation for finding these locking tools? I see cam timing "sets" that are a several hundred dollars but all that I'm looking for is the tool to lock the cam while I change out the tensioner o ring and crush washer. I read somewhere that locking crank at TDC can be done with a simple dowel. I'm just trying to fix a slow drip from the tensioner and don't want to spend money for a full kit.
Dan C replied to Dan C's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Makes sense. Thank you!
I've been trying to find the answer to the question, do I need to lock the cam just to remove and re-seal the bank 1 chain tensioner on a 3.6 (2004 C2)? I have a small oil drip and debating replacing the crush washer and o-ring. I've done a lot of searching on forums and posted on rennlist but most everything I have found is tied to replacing the IMS bearing (which involves removal of this tensioner). Picture of the tensioner in question attached.
2011 Cayenne S - The heater fan is blowing off and on (mostly off). Dealer says the fan motor needs replaced. I thought my cpo went to June this year but just found out it expired June last year so looking to do this myself. Anyone have guidance? I only saw one post by searching where a user was unable to get the motor out because of limited access to all of the bolts because of the wiring harness. Any guidance would be appreciated including a pic of the fan motor location. Thanks