tommy914

one more possible source : http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6203-2RS10-1

same bearing?

Does anyone have a source for these bearings? Google isn't helping me much.

are these the same ? http://www.asnlaundryparts.com/6203-Bearing-p/6203.htm

thanks

it's the engine stall indicator, you just need to go faster. optimum rev is 3000rpm.

:D

The million dollar question is:

How does it sound accelerating up a hill in 4th gear. The dreaded DRONE that 99% of the crappy aftermarket exhaust companies sell will rattle your brain!!

I have cut into several stock Boxster mufflers. Modifying a stocker is pretty easy!! Have welder will travel!

B

When are you coming through Mississippi?

:)

Tommy:

Oil in that "upper J-tube" is usually an indication that the AOS is on its way out. Check to see if there is any accumulation of oil inside the throttle body (remove the large hose clamp to gain access).

How much mileage on your Boxster S, and has it ever been replaced before?

Regards, Maurice.

39,000 miles and it has not been replaced.

Also, the oil filler tube was leaking, which some have suggested indicates AOS problems.

On my 2000 Boxster S, I just pulled the hose loose that connects the AOS to the air intake. It had some oil in it. So is that the first sign the AOS is bad? or is some oil to be expected?

thanks

Tommy

Well, I definitely have a mesh sock. My manuals don't show a replacement however. Regardless it sounds like you need to replace your oil filler tubes. You should also determine if you need to replace your AOS which may have caused the collapse of your oil filler tubes.

K. Brandsma

'98 Boxster

How do I determine if the AOS is causing the problem? I'm not seeing any smoke.

Tommy

Tommy:

The middle one of the three tubes that comprise the oil filler tube (the one with the mesh sock) is part number 996.107.254.03 and lists for about $32.25. As KBrandsma says, Sunset has it for less.

Regards, Maurice.

Sunset says there isn't a mesh sock that comes with this part and there isn't a seperate part for it either.

Anyone have a picture or a part number for the mesh sock?

thanks

Tommy

Thanks for the additional info.

Guess I'll get back on the phone with Sunset and see if they can locate that part number for the mesh sock before they send out my oil fill tube.

BTW, Sunset is a great parts dealer, great service on my recent water pump replacement and the prices can't be beat.

Yes, that is the correct orientation and (A) is what I am referring to. The clear plastic is what the Porsche parts label was stuck to, like it was part of the label and should have been taken off.

I don't see this "sock" on the parts diagram anywhere. Anyone know a part number?

I'm curious though. It seems like the more flexible end should be closer to the engine since that is where most of the vibration and flexing will occur. I wonder if it fits both ways?

It does look like yours is installed backwards. Very interesting.

It looks to me like somebody broke the tube and taped it ( :o ) as a fix. Which is probably why it's leaking. Is the tape / plastic wrap covering the corrugated portion? It's hard to tell in the picture.

John,

Is yours installed the other way?

I've seen other pictures now with them installed like mine. Maybe the parts diagram is wrong.

It looks like that plastic is part of the Porsche parts label. The edge of the white label can be seen in this picture, before I pulled it off.

You can just see the edge of the "flex" part of the tube.

On my 2000 Boxster S, I noticed oil leaking around one end of the oil filler tube. So I was looking online for a part and notied that the parts diagram seemed to show that the "flex" end of the hose was mounted towards the engine. Mine seems to be the opposite. Could mine be put on backwards? It appears to have been replaced by the previous owner, as the tube has plastic wrap and the Porsche parts label still on it.

Here is the pic:

Here is the parts diagram:

I have this annoying problem that happens occasionally. I will sometimes have alittle extra whining from the engine during acceleration or sustained speeds/rpms. Saying Im coasting at about 2800 rpm... and the engine whine will be kinda loud sometimes ..........

Anyone else experience this?

I often hear whining when putting along at 2800 rpm too, but mine sounds more like this "Why are you going so slow?" "Step on the gas you old fart" "Quit driving like an old lady" "You know the redline is 7200 don't you?!?"

This may or may not be the same problem you are having... or it could just be voices in my head.

Painting the hubs will make it look even better. Gray or black just to clean it up.

Tommy

...

I managed to just remove the anti sway bar attachement just at the sway bar and the tie rod and control arm of course the brake assembly. I sustain a minor set back when I put my together. Somehow one of the brake wear wire was cut during the removal and installation hense I had a brake wear light on when I finished the job.

...

Ben

Ben,

I am not sure why you had to remove the brake assembly? I did mine with it attached.

Tommy

Check this link for some general tips on taking apart the rear suspension:

Boxster Suspension work

- remove center cap from rear wheel

- loosen drive axle nut using 32mm socket (while car is still on the ground)

- remove diagonal braces and chassis reinforcement plate

- disconnect sway bar link at end of sway bar

- remove inner CV joint retaining bolts and disconnect inner CV joint from transmission

- remove control arm and track arm from wheel bearing carrier using the ball joint press.

- to free ball joint from wheel bearing housing, pull down on control arms, while swinging wheel bearing carrier outward.

- tap drive axle end until it slides out of the wheel bearing carrier. then remove drive axle.

- to install. lift axle to transmission flange and secure with 2 bolts.

- Lubricate splines on drive axle

- Swivel and pull wheel bearing carrier outwards. Bend CV joint until you can aline the splines with the wheel hub

- reinstall everything

- tighten drive axle nut ONLY with car ON THE GROUND

I recommend getting the Bentley manual when you order your CV Boot.

Some things to note. The outer axle nut needs to be torqued to 340ft lb. It should be replaced with a new nut. Also you need a special tool to remove the ball joint and tie rod without tearing them up!$ Info on places to get the ball joint tool are here.

One you get the shaft out, you will need to remove the inner CV joint to be able to replace the boots. Some general info on how to do that is here.

Go ahead and do both boots while you have it out.

If your worried about the emissions then get a 200cel cat and add it to the pipe, your computer will be happy too. With a standard straight pipe you will get a CE light for rear O2 sensor not seeing a different reading, catalyst failure or some other stupid code. If you have a cat even 200cel it will give a different reading and not trigger the O2 CE light.

The first 02 sensor is what the ECU looks at for the tune state of the engine. THe rear O2 sensor (after the cat) only measures the catylist efficiency. Basically it should read almost no air particles at all beause the cat would have finished up the combustion process in the cat, so the air/fuel mixture of the exhaust after the cat will be a lot higher as the air is all burnt up. As long as the second 02 can see any different that is within parameter it will be fine. A 200cel cat will do that.

You'll get a lot more flow for racing, no burnt up O2 sensors and still keep the light off...

Jim,

What is a good source for the cat replacement pipes and the 200cel cat?

thanks

Tommy

while i was cleaning the engine bay (waiting for zaino to dry) i noticed some oil buildup.

all cleaned up, mucho better

What did you use to clean up the engine bay? is it ok to rinse that area with water?

Tommy

The axle can be removed without taking apart the control arms, just remove the outer nut and the inner bolts.

Todd

Todd,

Describe how you did that. Any pics?

On my MY2000 S, I had to undo the control arms. Then remove it from the strut end, pivot the strut and pull it out.

It looked like it could have been pulled out from the transmission end if the exhaust had been removed.

This is how the Bently manual showed it too.

thanks

Tommy

Where is the "breather pipe"?

Tommy

Ben,

Did you do the work on the driver side shaft yourself? If not, then check this link for some general tips on taking apart the rear suspension:

Boxster Suspension work

Some things to note. The outer axle nuts need to be torqued to 340ft lb. Also you need a special tool to remove the ball joint and tie rod without tearing them up!$ Info on places to get the ball joint tool are here.

One you get the shaft out, you will need to remove the inner CV joint to be able to replace the boots. Some general info on how to do that is here.

Go ahead and do both boots while you have it out.

Tommy

thanks for the info. Glad it wasn't just me. Funny how its the exact same year and model.

On my 2000 Boxster S I am having trouble reinstalling the pan under the tranny. Not all the holes will line up at the same time. I noticed it was difficult to remove. It doesn't appear to be bent. Is this a common problem?

Anything to make it easier?

I had to special order it from NAPA at one of the stores. Its in their tools catalog.

Can also be order online here:

Napa ball joint tool

NAPA has one for $18. Its part number 3916.

Works great!