Supra-p!g

I've recently started changing exhaust components to obtain the exhaust note that makes me smile on my long drives to work. First I purchased a used Instant-G muffler and C pipes from someone who had a 3.6l conversion. In fact, I think this exhaust system was made for the 3.6 conversion as a kit. It sounds very nice and 2.25 inch C pipes and inlets -- low tone sonics. I had a drone at 3K that was quite loud, but a lower tone, still good sound -- but made me tired on long drives. I decided to install 2 inch down pipes from the stock headers to the 2.25 inch C pipes. The drone is completely gone. In fact, I miss any sound without throttle. Albeit, it's a nice departure from the drone sound, it would be nice to have some sound when I let off the throttle. When on the throttle it sounds very nice!! And surprisingly, the car feels much less strained when accelerating. It's like a different car, like it can breath now. Lots more power even at lower RPM, and throughout the power band. I really like the way it easily accelerates at any speed. So, a few questions: 1. How can gain back some of the lost sound on deceleration? -- Not a top priority, but if changing something means not having the power the way it is now -- then not worth it. 2. Since the system is now essentially restriction free except for the minimally baffled muffler -- is this in any way harmful to the engine? It feels like the motor runs easier with less strain. 3. I tied the secondary O2 sensors up and out of the way. No CEL, but is this some how harming the ECU's attempt at a stoichiometric O2/Fuel mixture. I'm assuming that no default program is triggered by the lack of proper signal these are now sending to the ECU. 4. What do you think of this setup?

You still have to press the clutch in to get it to start. The engine cranks and starts without having to hold the key to the left. I can just put the key in turn it to the left and let go. As soon as I press the clutch pedal the car cranks and starts on it's own -- no hands. I was wondering if the sludge could be in motor as well if I found it on the filter housing.

Got my oil changed. The oil filter had a layer of sludge on the bottom. Cleaned it out, but I think the prior owner had the car sit in his garage for most of every year, except for 1500 miles a year. The oil came out clean, and looked like new. Also had the car put on the computer and the cam positions read 0 and -1. Bob said that the engine seems very well taken care of. 57K miles, now has 58.5K after driving to work for 8 days, at 180 miles a day. Also, apparently I have "auto start." I thought it was supposed to be like this -- I put the key in turn it and press the clutch -- the car cranks and starts by itself.

Just got a 98 Boxster for my Birthday. Now I have two Porsches! First question is: can I drive it for a few more days on the old oil until I get it changed this weekend. The car has 57K miles. Last owner changed oil 1.5K miles ago. So he drove the car very little over the last year since the last oil change, but it's been a year. It's fairly dry here in Colorado, and the car has always been garaged. Should I change immediately, or can drive it a few hundred miles until I get the oil changed this weekend? IMS failure a huge issue on these 98's? The oil looks clear and like new when I check on the dipstick. The engine sounds excellent. I can hear the chain rattle momentarily when I start it cold. Also, plan to use Driven DT40 oil that I have an extra case of (bought it for my Cayenne, but have enough to do the Boxster) and it's 5W40. Thanks! I'm really enjoying the car -- it's not a 420 HP MKIV that used to have, but it's almost as fun. Mike

I installed a 2003 Turbo Instrument Cluster from an English (It came from London) Cayenne in my 2004 Cayenne S. The cluster itself works fine, and looks great! My only problem is that I can't control the functions with the menu selector control on the wiper arm. It's unresponsive, does nothing when I press reset, or up and down selectors. Is there something I need to do to make it work? Maybe a bad connection?

The Indy also said that I likely was hearing lifter noise when I heard the intermittent thud sound. Head gasket? How can you tell if that is going bad besides water in the oil, or water out the tail pipes? I have none of that, and no smoke ever, but black carbon buildup on exhaust tips. I can see old oil stains (maybe it puddled in that area at some point) in the middle bolt on the side of the right hand bank where I heard the lifter noise. Thanks, Mike

Just an update: I had the Cayenne inspected at a highly recommended independent Porsche shop here in Denver. They said that my engine has no signs of scoring and overall it's the quietest and cleanest motor they've seen in a while. They scanned the car as well and no faults were recorded besides the "Air Suspension Warning" -- (I installed a Turbo Instrument Cluster from another vehicle). The car has no noises at all as I heard before with the Mobil 1 0W40 (aside from the injector noise). The DT40 motor oil made it very quiet, and it look clean as the day I put it in, even with 1500 miles on it since I change to DT40. In comparison, the Mobil 1 0W40 came out black and nasty after only 800 miles. Could the Mobil 1 have cleaned out any sludge that was in the motor? Also, I just received my oil analysis packet from Blackstone. Should I send them the old black old that I took out, or wait for the next oil change?

I replaced the oil and now the light knocking sound is gone. Valve train is also quiet. Only concern is the sound of intake air coming in, and high pitched buzzing noise that lasts a few seconds right after cold startup. Maybe the starter got wet when coolant pipes went out?

7.8 quarts came out, but it was a but overfilled last time. Still need to start and drive the car, so more will probably be added.

A bit of strange info: the last receipt I have from the previous owner's oil change listed the oil qty filled at 6 quarts. Could 2 quarts get trapped somewhere in the system if something is plugged?

Something I still don't understand is why I can only get 7 quarts in and it's at the full mark. I pulled both oil plugs and let it fully drain. Replaced filter as well. 9.25 quarts is written on the inside front panel under the Mobil 1 sticker. Is this normal for a Cayenne S? Seems like not enough oil, but looking at the records the previous oil changes required 9 quarts. Could there be 2 quarts left in motor or faulty dip stick? I ended up with too much oil last time when I added 8 quarts.

I'll save it and send for analysis. The previous oil change didn't seem to smell like this. Also, the torque figure for the oil plugs -- is it 21 ft/lbs, or 37? I've seen both. The main plug came out easily, I didn't torque it that hard, the second plug was likely done at the dealer, it took some effort to remove. I bought two new oil plugs last time, but just realized that I only have one new oil plug crush washer. Can I reuse the old one since I likely didn't torque it enough? Well, I really don't have a choice since I only have one new washer today.

I'm wating for the oil to drain. A few observations: 1. The oil is black -- I just changed it maybe 800 miles ago. 2. There is pungent smell of gas/oil coming from the old oil -- maybe running too rich, which could account for the backfire sound I heard when letting off the throttle at idle. Injectors, or coils failing?

Or a pre-oiler togther with an accusump.

Since these engines have lube problems at startup, why hasn't anyone tried using an Accusump installed on a modified oil filter fitting? 1 quart of oil before cranking may eliminate this issue.

Right, I do replace the filter. There is also an oil line on the right side, but I don't think I'll bother. I'll change the oil again in 5K miles. Thanks. We'll see if this quiets the engine a bit.

Thanks! Last time I didn't start it either, but only drained the main oil pan. I plan to drain both tomorrow and fill the with the DT40. I just drain, replace the crush washers, and then refill until the oil level is at max on the dipstick. Then I start the car and let it run for a minute, and then top it off. Is anything else that I need to do? I don't want to damage anything.

Received the oil on Friday. Planning to change oil tomorrow. Is it a good idea to start the car and let if warm up before draining the oil? I haven't started it for 9 days since I noticed the light knocking, and thought it would be better to change the oil prior to driving it again. Just curious if warm-up is really necessary.

I thank you all for your responses. I've fallen in love with the car. One of the main reasons why I got this individual car is the combination of the color, interior, and just the way it felt. I test drove several other Cayenne turbos and decided that this Cayenne S model would be the most practical, had the best off the line response at lower RPM. Given this, I would be open to rebuilding the motor correctly to keep enjoying the car for years to come. It seems that used motors are now quite cheap -- buying a replacement and taking my time to build is a step I would like to take. I was in my garage/workshop last night and thought perhaps I could even mill some the parts that I need. I have a fully enclosed KIA CNC turning center/w Fanuc controller, and a supermax vertical CNC mill with A/B controller -- but just use my laptop on direct point to point feed. I suppose if I can get the drawings for the sleeves ... but then again not enough time in the day to everything since this is a hobby. Does it matter if I get a motor with higher mileage, or one with less if I plan to make it a project rebuild? They all seem to sound very loud with clicking and noise no matter the mileage.

So ultimately the solution is a rebuild?

I ordered Gibbs DT 40 is a 5W-40 oil last Friday. I suspect I could benefit from a flush if there is other junk in the motor to be cleaned out. I've only put on about 600 miles since moving to the Mobile 1. I may simply change the oil with the gibbs and go directly to a recommended local shop and get the cylinder walls examined. No other issues that I can see, but a really loud drive train with the M1 for sure. I'm already looking at used motors just in case. From my research I've found that many shops have the opinion that all used motors will have some scoring in these 2004 models -- a basic design flaw with all of them due to "alu-seal (SP?)."

Last question, what weight DT40 do recommend for my situation? Is heavier better at this point?

That probably means that I can keep driving the car until it fails while I look for a replacement motor. I suspect that total failure can occur at anytime, but have seen some posts with member continuing to drive the car for thousands of miles after knocking starts, and then some that only have 500 miles before total failure.

Again, thanks for advice. I'll have a local Indy shop do a PPI for me with leak down test. In the event of scoring, and since it's just started, very light knocking -- would it be better to do a rebuild or replace the engine (I found one with 71K miles and for a reasonable price)?

Thanks for quick reply. This is what I was dreading, and explains the thicker oil. The car was in such good condition otherwise, so I went ahead with the purchase with the knowledge of the scoring possibility. Does the throttle blip backfire sound, or the fact that it does not burn any oil -- no smoke at startup or at any other time give any clues? Will get Gibbs DT40 for the oil change, thanks for advice.