GOB

Ouch! I don't know what they will find when they open mine on Wednesday, but the shop agreed to bill me for 2 hours.

Thanks Loren. I found the procedure on p-car after I posted. Looks to be a couple of hours, not 6 as I read elsewhere.

Well, my car turned 30K miles on Friday and as a present :angry: it "gave" me a bad water pump today. Everything was fine on it when I used it on Friday night, but yesterday afternoon, while running a short errand, I noticed an odd sound (as if two metal pieces were slightly rubbing together). After taking it to the dealership, I was confirmed that in fact its a bad water pump. Not too many posts on this subject and I have read that it may take two hours to replace, or up to six hours?! :o Could someone confirm how many hours does this procedure actually take? Loren: any write ups or instructions that you could share? :huh:

Esta demasiado limpio! Abusalo! jejejeje

Perhaps this is not the response you are looking for, but allow me to present my opinion anyways. I used to have a 2 seater sports car (BMW M Coupe) and sold it because I wanted a more 'practical family car', so I got the 996 instead (albeit, not a cabrio). I have identical twin boys (4.5 years of age, 33lbs). I tried putting their Britax Roundabout car seats in there and truth be told, in order to give them enought legroom, I had to push my seat too far foward for my liking (I am 6' tall). In went the cushion booster seats. Result: the seatblets still crossed them at a dangerous angle (think decapitation). If we take trips that last more than 45 minutes, the boys will fall asleep and they eventually crouch upon each other over the transmission tunnel. This makes the wife very angry, especially when she sees how close they really are to the hard backs of my sport seats. Net result, yes, the 996 is more practical than a Boxster, but don´t think for a second that its a family cars where car seats fit perfectly fine. I believe I will soon sell my car and end up getting something else I had considered previously that will make life a tad easier and much safer for my kids (M5, Evo/STi, Cayenne, etc).

I got mine from Steve Weiner at Rennsport Systems. Not sure what the compound is, they are often referred to as "Red Box".

Approximately a year ago I paid $225 for a set (front and rear) of Mintex "Red Box" pads and ATE rubber hoses. I still don't like the way my car brakes, but I have yet to find the time to sand my discs and re bed the pads to see if the problem is with the discs and not the pads. My issue is that the rate of deceleration is not as much as I would like it to be or as good as other Porsches I have driven. My M Coupe with Metal Master pads would maje your eyeballs come out! :P :o Looking for the same feeling.

1999, could you please tell me EXACTLY what I need to add? This plus the AEM might just be the solution to my potential problem. I know I am not going to get any performance gains (minimal if any), what I am after is a "louder experience".

:renntech:

Thank you all for your replies. For the record, I am not frying MAFs (knock on wood). I was just considering the purchase of a K&N Aircharger and those units have a "high coincidence rate" to make MAFs fail (apparently not due to overoiling, but the inability to handle the newfound large air volumes that pass through it).

Could someone please give me a definite answer regarding the possibility of a 3.4 car working with a 3.6 MAF? Apparently the 3.4s are prone to fail with the K&Ns, but not so the case with the 2002+ model cars.

I guess that 3.4 and 3.6 MAFs are not compatible then.

I am getting about 14 mpg on city, and 28 on the highway. Keep using the car until you get more miles in the tank. Even though I had to replace the fuel pump just a few months ago and had the fuel gauge re calibrated, the first quarter of tank gets "consumed" (as per the fuel gauge) in 30 miles or so. Once you reach the halfway mark, it will take a lot more miles before you see the needle move. As a note, I learned that in order to be sure that there is no fuel left in the tank, the needle has to fall below the low level fuel light. I only did this once as the tech told me I had to nearly run it empty so they could properly calibrate the gauge (requires a specific amount of fuel in the tank to do so).

Just to confirm something: the non e gas cars (my 98 Euro) use a different MAF than e gas cars? If I put a 2002 version in my car it wont work? I ask this because apparently the earlier versions of the MAF are prone to more frequent failures if a K&N or Evo intake is added.

I was going to tell you that it sounded like droplinks (swaybar links?) and if you have replaced those, then its a tough one to diagnose. Muffler mounts?

See, you guys are going to jinx me :rolleyes: To date, no more problems with the idle. The high idle occurred that one time only, so I doubt that the cable is misplaced (but you never know!). Plugs, wires, and all filters (and numerous other odds and ends) were changed 3K miles ago.

As mentioned before, RoW M030 suspension kit (springs, shocks, swaybars).

I wanted to remove my rims to I could sand the brake discs since I believe the PO glazed them somehow and on the first wheel bolt, SNAP!!! :cursing: :censored: the key broke in two places (where the teeth grab the bolt). The local stealer doesn't have them in inventory.

The mechanic came by with the case mentioned above and the one that worked on mine had 007 stamped on the side of the "socket". Since he has 4 spare wheel bolts (non security) and I don't park in places where my rims would be at risk of being stolen, I am just going to put regular bolts in. We had to use a small pipe to remove locking bolts in the front! :cursing:

Spoke to the mechanic after the "reverse mod" did not work too well. He indicated that I must first adjust the screw by the rear calipers (said to turn it all the way in until I feel that the wheel would no longer turn freely, then back it out two clicks) and after adjusting the rear, then I would also need to adjust the center console part. 5 clicks for fully engaged parking brake is the standard spec according to him. Now if I could only find the time to fiddle with this!

Richard and Steve: do either one of you recall what diameter tube used for this modification? Any chance either one of you have sound clips? Just to confirm, both of you have the 3.4 mufflers, correct?

1999Porsche911 was of great help to me over there at Rennlist, but I must say that the whole experience for me was not as gratifying as it was for many others. I nearly lost an eye in the process and got nausea for a long time (all my fault of course).

If you are planning to replace it (I had someone do it for me on my car), plan on a LONG time to do so since you have to remove many things. Its not the most comfortable thing to do on these cars.

Rennlist has these mods pretty well documented, but let me save you hours of searching (as I have contemplated this myself). Here is the short of it.

Two types of mufflers: 3.4 and 3.6 engines.

Two types of modifications: "MK 1" is the one shown on the pictures above; "MK 2" is somewhat similar, but it is a pipe that goes from the nipple/recess on the top rearmost part of the mufflers connecting it directly to the pipe that eventually leads to the muffler tips.

The consensus is that you barely get any increase in noise from the 3.4 mufflers, and that is with the MK 1 version. MK 2 version on the 3.4 mufflers has yielded insignificant results (why, I don't know). Supposedly, the only mufflers worthwhile modifying are the 3.6 mufflers using the MK 2 version of the mod. This combination supposedly yields the equivalent of the PSE sound. I believe someone tried a combination of the MK 1 and 2 modifications on a 3.4 or 3.6 muffler, but I lost track of the result.

Me, I used the "infamous" orange cap on the intake and having a ball with the new sound from 4.5K-6K rpms. Wish I could get similar results (and a tad louder) from something else and through a wider range. I tried the home made route of the muffler bypass, and though it sounded great, it rendered the car useless for drives over 10 minutes long (plus shook loose half of my interior)

Gracias Carlos. Will do the "reverse trick" first to see if that does it, but I doubt it will since it should be fully locked around 4-5 clicks, but in my case, its nearly 7-9 clicks! Question for you, do I have to turn the adjustment screw the same amount of turns on each side? How do I know when I have gone too far and I would actually be dragging the shoes on the drum? I am assuming its #2 on the enclosed pic? I have to remove every rim anyways as I believe my discs are glazed and will hit them with some rough garnet paper this weekend (if I find the time to do so....)

I searched and all I found was how to swap out the unit, but what I need to do is for the brake to "engage" approximately 3-4 clicks sooner than it currently is doing. Is this done at the rear console? Underneath the car? Anyone done this and has a write up or better yet, pictures?! :rolleyes:

My bad, I should have specified that the part numbers I listed above are for a 98 996 C2. The dealer told me that they are the same for all 98-01 996 C2s and even Boxsters. :oops: