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Everything posted by GOB

  1. For whatever it's worth, I too have the LNE plug on my 996 (different engine, I know!) and it fit fine and works fine. Just another vote for going with a known commodity that works on various engines. Here is my post on it: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48463-ln-engineering-magnetic-drain-plug-at-work/?hl=%2Bmagnetic+%2Boil#entry267644
  2. Thanks for the replies. Seems as if things are under control then. Hopefully this serves as a reference point for someone else in the future. I'd nearly have a heart attack if I were to see so much metal after changing the oil filter as pictured above :eek: If my car doesn't sell as quickly as I am hoping it does, I may end up getting one of those filters for next time. Just want to keep an eye on things before they go....
  3. No sump pan was dropped before I installed the magnetic plug. Of further note, the plug was extremely easy to clean as all of the ferrous material came off the plug with a simple swipe of a rag.
  4. Thanks Loren. Will take a look at it again as I replaced the K&N air filter the PO had on the car with the factory one and back then, the throttle body looked clean. I also cleaned the MAF sensor when I swapped out the filters. Now that I recall, this behavior happened with both the K&N filter as well as the factory intake.
  5. I had one of these installed in my previous to last oil change (4,700 miles, 24 months) and when the plug was removed, it looked like it does in the following pictures. Obviously it is doing its job and no metal was found on the oil filter (OEM original filter). Question is: is this amount of ferrous material deposited on the magnet normal or is it an indication of something not being right? My apologies for the quality, only had cell phone at hand on a relatively dark garage....
  6. I finally got around fixing my tail light. I believe a picture paints a thousand words, so here are a few of them that show what I did five months ago and still holding up. May serve someone else in the future.
  7. My car (2002 C4S, RoW, tip) always struggles on cold starts. By struggle, I mean that the revs tend to drop below idle and that when I press the accelerator, it behaves as if it had carbs with too much fuel being dumped into the engine (not much of a response, but after a few seconds, it takes off and works fine). Besides the odd RPMs when coming to a stop and the lack of throttle response for 10 seconds after being pressed, I have noticed an extremely strong odor coming off the mufflers, something that does not happen when the car is warm. This behavior completely goes away after 5-10 minutes of driving. It only happens when the car has been sitting for hours (8+). The behavior is the same regardless if the car has been parked for a day or a week. On older 911s, a failing warm up regulator, often called WUR, could be the explanation for this kind of behavior, but I have yet to find if we have an equivalent part on our cars. I asked my local indy and he says that it is a common problem with these models here in Panama, and that the factory mechanics never figured out what was going on. The local dealer, with their relatively new and inexperienced mechanics don't have any idea either. I find it very odd, specially taking into account that temperatures here rarely drop below 25ºC (77ºF). Any ideas?
  8. Sorry for the thread revival, but was looking for instructions on how to remove the rear tail lights on my car as some a$$ho!e decided he would either try and steal one of them, or sat on it and broke the two tabs that attach it to the car. Luckily for me, found this post and will promptly do the same repair. My car too is a C4S and it is the driver's side rear tail light that had the tabs broken by the aforementioned a$$ho!e who will not take claim for his/her action. Any tips on which glue to use? Another doubt.... After removing the two screws that are close to the engine lid, do I just pull on the assembly and it comes out, or is there a third screw holding it in place? Mine seems to sit pretty well and tight even with the two tabs broken.
  9. Thanks RFM! Maurice, or anyone else who has performed this, is the bike brake adjuster supposed to just slip over the existing cable? I would think that the metal in the adjuster tube and nut would not "give enough" to go over the existing cable and not leaving it permanently damaged, but I could be wrong (my wife would say quite often...)
  10. I have to dig around for that post. I recall reading it, as well as some other marine epoxy. If someone has it handy, please reply on this post with a link to that post. As of now, the local dealer has the part for $230 and labor is $200 (they say 1 hour 45 minutes to replace). Tomorrow the local indy is going to take a look at the car and confirm the diagnosis as well as determine if the used regulator he has is for the driver side or passenger side. I'm more inclined to do the "bike repair" on the regulator that I currently have. Gotta find time to search for the post and detailed explanations so I can show it to the indy and see if he can do this for me. That said, the local bike shop I use has the cables for nearly $15 (I know since I just had all the cables replaced on my road bike and it was a surprise to me how pricey those suckers are!).
  11. I have spent quite a few hours going over many posts about microswitches and window regulator problems and I just wanted confirmation on the diagnosis of the problem I'm currently having with my passenger side window (it only drops ±1mm vs. the ±10mm when pulling on the inside or outside handles, thus the window catches on the A pillar and roof). I have performed the limits reset and still the problem is not solved. The window will go all the way down and up with the door either closed or open, thus the motor is not the problem. The window does drop (barely) when pulling on the handles (inside and outside), thus the microswitches seem to be working. I am able to press the window down with my hand and it does in fact drop a bit.So, is my diagnosis/assumption that the culprit is the window regulator a correct one?
  12. I know the post is somewhat old, but since I am now having issues with the passenger window, I thought I would update this thread for archive purposes. The driver's side door latch was the culprit for the issues presented above and locally (Panama) it cost $197.45. I took it to the indie mechanic who replaced it for $80 (labor). Actually, the indie had to do the job twice as we thought the latch was DOA, when in fact, the indie did not connect it properly and it became loose a few miles down the road. Door taken apart again, connections verified, and all was good.
  13. I completely agree with you Jeff. The entire bottom was cleaned off with tons of rags and 2 cans of brake cleaner. Looked like new when they were done. Will make sure to go there again on Tuesday (holidays down here til then...) and see if we can take a peek again and be precise with the source of the leak. It's definitely there as I found two drops of oil this morning when I left for what was a very nice spirited drive! Below is what I think is the correct diagram, but unfortunately, it does not give me the part number for the large seal that is shown in the pic...
  14. Update: I got my car serviced yesterday afternoon. I barely had any ATF in the case as the mechanic had to put 5.5 quarts of ATF back into the transmission in order to get the the correct level. Of note, the transmission seemed to work fine, unless I braked somewhat aggressively (I'm assuming due to the low level). When the car was put on the lift, I had the chance to see exactly what kind of a mess there was of oil ALL over the place on the under tray. We are talking drops of oil dripping from it. According to my tech, it seems as if the seal between the transmission case and the rear diff is the culprit. Something about the bell housing, but it is not where the transmission connects to the engine. It is somewhere around where the two rear seats are. Any idea as to which seal this may be? An exploded view of sorts with part numbers would be very grateful. My choices are: $75 labor to top off level plus the cost of ATF, or drop the transmission and have the seals replaced (waiting on labor cost estimate for this and need to figure out which seals/parts I would need).
  15. Thanks for the clarification. I will remove the pan, change the filter, top it off (±4-5 liters) and in a few months, will just drain and refill again (±4-5 liters) with hopes that I have as much clean ATF in there as possible.
  16. Yeap, in my case, the steering wheel buttons work as they should regardless if the gear selector is on "automatic" or "manual" mode. I just hope that the ATF flush takes care of the slipping and I will not have a repeat of the stuck in a gear (where the buttons on the wheel had no effect!)
  17. If only 3-4 liters/quarts are removed by doing the drain plug and removing the pan (to replace the filter), how does one go about removing the other 4-5 quarts to make sure that all that is left is ±9 liters of fresh ATF?
  18. Thanks Jeff. Would this be the cause for my transmission problem (when I brake moderately, the transmission "slips" before engaging the gear; on another instance, it just remained "stuck" on 3rd gear until I re started the vehicle).
  19. Because of the issues I'm having with my transmission, I had the local indy come by and connect his Durametrics system to my car (2002 C4S Tip RoW). Below is a picture I took of the error that was shown on his PC screen. He did clear the error codes, but when he ran the diagnostic again, the same error messages popped up. Any indication as to what this means?!
  20. Creekman: any update on this for us wide bodied versions that wish others will actually see us clearly on a rainy day? I just had a Lexus LX470 "tap" my front bumper due to the fact that my car is gray, parked behind it, gray day due to rain, gray concrete street surface, and she didn't even see me on her rear view camera! The other day, a semi truck nearly rear ended me and claimed I was "too low on the road" to see me.... I need something as close as a 20' banner that would say "brake dumb a$$!"
  21. Search under my screen name for an interesting post regarding how to do this depending on which version of the tip tranny you have. I'm going to tackle this in about 3 weeks and will post an update once done. If I could only know exactly what hose (R134A or other) I need to connect to my tranny I would be in heaven... Jeff, you subscribed to this thread? ;) :D :lol:
  22. It may be completely unrelated, but you may want to search for poor FM reception on the Cayenne forums and see what the "fix" is (removing shielding on A pillar) and see if perhaps this helps you fix the problem without having to spend on anything but your time for the effort required.
  23. As a complete non technical person (just search on my name and see my posts....), it seems to me that for us who have a 2002+ 996 tip car, in either one of hese solutions, the trasmission needs to come down, but in the case of the DOF, there needs to be some rather intrusive work to make sure the new flange/oil feeder fits, so the basic question is: 1- is the problem a bearing one and LN takes care of it by offering a longer lasting (but not permanent fix!) bearing whereby you have to assume it is a consumable such as brake pads), or is the problem 2- a lack of lubrication one whereby, regardless of bearing used, the DOF alternative takes care of it (prober lubrication) permanently ? Am I oversimplifying this? I can only assume that the inherent problem would rear its ugly face on the street or the track. At the end of the day, we are talking preventative maintenance on a $15-20K item on a $15-$35K car... As an owner of a tip 2002 C4S, I'm genuinely interested in getting to the bottom of this "possible" problem, one that has plagued the 996 series and has allowed me to own such a vehicle at a relatively modest total ownership cost basis.... I am NOT asking for the competing vendors to wage war against each other, just looking for solid proof so us buyers of either solutions could make an informed decision regarding which is the best (a subjective one at best) decision for each individual case.
  24. I know my car has only one transmission (where gears are) and that requires ATF fluid and to be changed as described on another post I recently wrote about, but where I'm getting a bit confused is on the differentials. There is a diff in the front axle of my car, but is there a diff in the rear too? Do diffs use a different liquid/fluid/oil than the tranny (+02 cars are very specific with regards to ATF to be used on the Mercedes built boxes). Do I need to change out the fluids in the diffs too if I do the ATF tranny flush/filter replacement? Any DIY on this? Please forgive my ignorance on the matter :blush:
  25. JFP: thank you very much for the idea to use another tool instead! Since auto parts store here do not carry tools as most do in the US, I wonder how much "damage" could be done by filling the tranny through the overfill port. In other words, pour ATF throigh the overfill until it starts to pour out. Would that work too? I know it is not as "elegant" as the Motive/AC hose, but it may yield a much faster repair time!
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