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Chris_in_NH

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Everything posted by Chris_in_NH

  1. Chris_in_NH
    wow, sorry to hear... superglue is a tough one, for sure. what you need is a cyanoacrylate debonder. i have used this product with limited success (meaning that it worked only slightly better than anything else) but it's worth a shot. in my first year of boxstownership, my trunk 'boxster' emblem had separated from the foam backing tape that was still attached to the trunk. i had some superglue lying around, and never thought for a minute that i may one day want to remove the boxster emblem, so i superglued it back on. it worked great until i wanted to take the emblem off. i used every product you can think of to try to get the superglue off, but nothing would do it. i was able to carefully pick away most of the glue, but there was still glue remaining. i tried the debonder and it did soften the superglue, but in the end there was still some that i could not remove. eventually i had it wet-sanded which did remove a few chips of paint. :( try the debonder and let it really soak in. you can find debonder online and at hobby shops. i don't know if one brand is better/stronger/safer than the others. good luck! i think you should find the vandals and superglue them together. :lol:
  2. Chris_in_NH
    RN, i've heard that 18's are not a problem on the 97s unless you track the car. but if you were to track the car, i'm pretty sure that upgrading to the ROW 030 suspension would solve the problem. i know people that run 18s and even 19s with no problems. good luck!
  3. Chris_in_NH
    i'm sorry, but that's crap. it is preying on the unsuspecting consumer who thinks that he is being charged a 'fair' price. and while it MAY be true that they CAN charge whatever they want, the MSRP is a 'guide' to pricing, and generally no-one pays MORE than list price for anything, unless there is a serious supply/demand situation. no wonder dealers are (dis)affectionately called 'stealers.' and this dealer in particular obviously sees them coming a mile away. i would be very tempted to ask the GM what their rationale is for charging such inflated prices, and tell him in no uncertain terms to take a good look, because this would be the last time he'd ever see me. however, that does not mean that the consumer should buy anything without doing their homework first. as the saying goes, buyer beware. but still, i know people in my business (networking/telecom) that have been FIRED for selling above list price to unsuspecting and naive customers. once the customer finds out that they've been duped, that's the end of their business forever. and it is a well-known fact that people tell others about bad experiences 3 times more than they tell others about good ones. i sure do. Dharn55, AutohausAZ has good prices too. http://www.autohausaz.com. i have no affiliation with them at all. i've also heard that Suncoast in FL has good prices, but i haven't used them yet myself. http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...ategory_Code=PO good luck, and remember to do your homework!
  4. Chris_in_NH
    fred, i never got it fixed. the car magically healed itself after i changed the oil last time. no more codes, no CEL, no misfires nor stutters nor stalls. i can't explain it... but i'm happy about it. the dealer quoted me $1200. good luck. try changing your oil! :huh:
  5. Chris_in_NH
    when i went to manually lock my door with the key the other day (the remote receiver died years ago...) i felt the lock give way, as opposed to the usual pressure felt when turning the key in the lock. i can still put the key in the lock, but it just turns with no resistance, and does not lock/unlock the door. has anyone replaced/repaired their door lock mechanism? how do you get a new lock re-keyed, or do you just get a new set of keys with the lock? i'd like to do it myself if it's not too difficult. thanks.
  6. Chris_in_NH
    i would get a 2000 boxster S if i were you. bigger engine, bigger brakes, better suspension, more HP, etc. i have a '97 and have wanted the extras a boxster S provides. unfortunately, they didn't exist until 2000... the price should be within a few thousand dollars of what you'd pay for a 1999 model, especially since the new boxsters have been introduced. i imagine many older models will be turned in, etc. not that there's anything wrong with a non-S model... i love mine. just would be nice to have the extras, since they are expensive to add after-the-fact. as far as fuel, i find mileage is very good if you drive like an older grandparent. :P but if you really step on it, you can literally watch your gauge plummet. it all depends on how you drive. as far as corrosion, i have not heard of ANY problems in this area. make sure you know which options you want before you buy one. there are many used boxsters out there, and you can pretty much expect to get the color, options, etc. that you want. good luck!
  7. Chris_in_NH
    figured out what the problem was. i had unhooked the cables that hold the rear of the conv top down. when i hooked them again, it pulled the rear edge of the conv top down so the clamshell fits flush. D'OH!!
  8. Chris_in_NH
    ok, i got the clamshell off. it was exremely easy. thanks for the info. now that it is off, i expected it to be bent a bit, but it looks ok. the reason i thought it was bent is because i had the cable failure which broke a piece (clamshell arm) and it has not closed correctly since the failure. when i close it, it does not sit flush with the rest of the car. it is propped up about 1 inch and the rubber gaskets on the underside of the clamshell are visible. any ideas? i was thinking that because all of the internal top components are disassembled, maybe the black canister pieces pull the top flush when they are attached and in working order? you know that little 'snug-up' noise at the end of the open/close cycle? the other thing i wonder about are the wedge levelers on the sides of the clamshell. i don't really understand how these work. it looks like if you push them to the '+' position the clamshell height should be adjusted (up). thanks for the help. i've been trying to get this done for quite a while now.
  9. Chris_in_NH
    meant to post this in Boxster Top Issues... oh well.
  10. Chris_in_NH
    how do i remove the clamshell? i need to straighten it. i searched thru these posts but couldn't find one that specifically addressed removal of the clamshell. thx
  11. Chris_in_NH
    well i could sure use 1!! you can reach me at chris underscore in underscore nh at yahoo dot com i'll PM you too. thanks!
  12. Chris_in_NH
    hi, not sure if these posts are allowed, but i need the end piece that fits into the cable drive motor. i took the one i had off of the cable, and now i have lost it. does anyone have an extra cable from their swap to new cables? or maybe a source for just this metal piece? Tool Pants, you MUST have one! ;)
  13. Chris_in_NH
    i know this an old post, but i suppose it's possibel that you haven't figured this out yet. if you hear noises, i would think that all the microswitches are functioning and that it is a problem with the cables and/or convertible top transmissions. get your car in service position, or in a position where you can see the transmissions. have a friend push the button and watch to see if the transmission "wheel" turns. if it doesn't, check that the cables are firmly attached to the cable motor behind the 3rd brake light. pull the cables out and check to see if there is enough of the inner drive cable sticking out from the cladding. i think 3/4" is recommended. also check that the clips that hold the cable in the motor are working properly (holding the cable in the motor.) see (or hear, rather) where the noise is coming from. is it the cable motor, transmissions, etc? good luck!
  14. Chris_in_NH
    i JUST noticed the same thing on my 1997 boxster top. it seems to be right on top of the rear convertible frame, so my guess was that when the top opens/closes it rubs this area. why it only rubs in a few spots, i don't know... maybe the fabric is stretched tighter against these areas?
  15. Chris_in_NH
    one of my conv. top cables came loose and snapped the clamshell arm on the driver's side. i just got the piece painted, so now i am ready to begin. in addition to the clamshell arm snapping, the red ball on the driver's side snapped, so i have replaced both push rods (and they have the newer white ball connectors.) i think the clamshell itself may be bent as the driver's side does not fit flush like it used to. i have decided to re-use the original cables with the original top drive transmissions. i did not remove the cables or transmissions. so my questions are... 1. i lost the metal crimp piece that fits at the end of the transmission cable. anyone know the part number, or where i can get a similar (non-OEM) piece. this looks like a pretty standard connector, i just don't know where to find one. 2. how do i re-time the transmissions, so they are both in the same position? how many revolutions does the transmission "wheel" make to open or close the top, or is it even 1 full revolution or less? 3. how would i remove the clamshell if i needed to bend it back into place? 4. what is the order of operations for this whole thing? for example, 1. connect white ball connectors, 2. retime transmissions, 3. connect black canisters, etc, etc.? thanks!
  16. Chris_in_NH
    but didn't the 2000 models have the newer (wider) spoiler?
  17. Chris_in_NH
    does anyone know if the 2003 bumper fit my 97 w/o modification? i have heard it is a perfect fit, but i question it only because of the newer-style (wider) spoiler. in THAT case, do i need the newer spoiler, or will there be a gap between the top of the rear bumper and the original '97 spoiler? has anyone done it? pics? thanks!
  18. Chris_in_NH
    worked like a charm! thanks to all! i used a hammer to get the piece moving, then used a screwdriver tip to hammer it all the way thru. it was too easy! thanks again!
  19. Chris_in_NH
    ok. thanks for the support. and the pic! when i eventually figure it out, i'll post it here. if anyone else knows the answer, please post. the summer is here and my top is broken!!! this is the only thing that is holding me back! thanks.
  20. Chris_in_NH
    thanks for the response. here's a pic (not of MY car, but of the fastener/rivet i'm trying to remove.) see arrow pointing to it. thanks!
  21. Chris_in_NH
    hi, i am surprised that no one has offered advice on how to remove the clamshell arm from the clamshell... i've received the new part, but still can't figure it out. here's my previous post: "the clamshell arm (the lever that pushes up the clamshell) 986-561-571-01-grv, snapped in half, so i have ordered a new one. i am trying to remove the old one from the clamshell, but i can't figure it out. there is a fastener that holds it in place, so i removed it. but there is what looks like a rivet of sorts whose end is larger than the diameter of the hole it goes through (to then be fastened by the fastener.) anyone know how to do this?" 2nd question is: on the V-lever, there is a hex bolt connecting the push rod to the V-lever. anyone know what size this is? i need to go buy a set of hex wrenches! tried a torx bit, but it wouldn't grab enough... thanks!
  22. Chris_in_NH
    hi, i have a MY97 boxster with dreaded top failure... the clamshell arm (the lever that pushes up the clamshell) 986-561-571-01-grv, snapped in half, so i have ordered a new one. i am trying to remove the old one from the clamshell, but i can't figure it out. there is a fastener that holds it in place, so i removed it. but there is what looks like a rivet of sorts whose end is larger than the diameter of the hole it goes through (to then be fastened by the fastener.) anyone know how to do this? thanks!
  23. Chris_in_NH
    yes, there are other dealerships. i guess i haven't ever had really good experiences at any of the ones i've been to. i don't trust that people actually know what they're talking about. a good example is i went in to get my 30K service done. approx. $1K to do this, which is extremely high. i specifically asked them to top off the coolant, which was never done. i really don't know what they did besides charge me $1K. the best (worst) part is, i had asked them to check the right rear side fog light, which wasn't working. (i found out later that this light is NOT SUPPOSED to work!) after looking at my service receipt about 18 months later (organizing), i realized that they charged me about $40 to tell me that the light wasn't working, and that the "fix" was to buy a new right side tail light assembly. i didn't buy it as it wasn't that important to me, but i figured i would ask when i was in for service. i didn't expect to be charged in addition to the 30K fee. anyway, if i had bought the assembly, it still wouldn't have worked! my point is, shouldn't the porsche techs KNOW that this light doesn't work and is not supposed to work? seems like Porsche 101 to me. as far as i know, there are NO porsche cars that have 2 working rear fog lights. this and the ridiculous prices they charge for basic service has really turned me off. i do what i can myself. unfortunately, the variocam is a little beyond my skill level... anyway, i'm going to try to get some help from PCNA, hopefully a goodwill fix.
  24. Chris_in_NH
    yes, key starts the car. second key starts car but has same keyless issue. thx
  25. Chris_in_NH
    just a quick question (not nearly as important as my variocam question...) i replaced the car battery a little while back and the keyless entry has not worked since. i asked the dealer what i need to do and they told me that i need to buy new keys for $150. is this true? it seems odd that if you replace the battery for approx. $100, you then need to spend another $150 to get your keyless to work. the battery in the key is fine (i believe.) it flashes continously and brightly when i press the button... also, the trunk button has no effect. don't they just need to reprogram the key or alarm/keyless system in the car? thanks Chris
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