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why not? you're not going to use the tubes anymore. ;) using your finger, you can try pressing the tube against the surrounding metal and pulling, but really the screwdriver is a great (and perfectly safe) idea. you do know it's the rubber-handle end of the screwdriver that goes into the tube, right? :huh:
it needs mods to extract the max power out of the engine, but it may be possible to simply re-program the DME (ECU) to use the new engine while you keep your old headers, exhaust, etc. and you can do these at a later time. i'm not 100% sure on this, but i don't see why you couldn't do it this way. if you search this forum for '3.4' you will find tons of documentation on the subject. and, if you're going to spend $5K on a 'regular' Boxster engine, you better make sure it's a 3.4L 996 engine!! ;) seriously, for not much more you can pick up a 3.4L engine.
1) We are thinking of getting a junkyard engine put in. Has anyone here bought one and for how much approximately? I've seen Boxster engines on eBay for as low as $1500. eBay is a good source for engines, especially because of the buyer protection. If anything is wrong, if the engine is not as described, etc., you can get your money back. Also, buy the parts and labor warranty wherever you buy the engine. You can usually get a 30-day, 60, 90, 180-day, 1 year, 2 years, etc. The price depends on the length of the warranty. I would think that if anything is going to go wrong, it's going to happen in the first month or two of driving, so maybe the 60- or 90-day would be the most cost-effective. Make sure you get the LABOR (in addition to the 'parts') warranty. Parts may be relatively cheap, but if you have to take an engine out once it's in, you're talking big bucks. I just had a Saab engine removed/installed and it was $1500 to take out the old engine and put in the new one. I believe the labor was $75/hr, so that's 20 hours just as a time estimate for engine-swapping. 2) Should we have them drop it just to confirm the issues since it has to be dropped anyways in case its lesser of a problem. Only if it needs to be dropped. You may decide to take it somewhere else and you may get a better labor rate if the mechanic takes out the old one AND puts in the new one. 3) Any other options that im missing here? Yes. Upgrading to a 3.4L (or bigger) engine!! Many of us are just waiting for our old engines to die so we have an excuse to justify buying and installing a bigger engine. Fate is calling. Are you going to answer? ;)
this post should be in the Conv Top forum. i'm sure it will be moved. when you unlatch the top to put it down, the windows should drop a few inches. the same should happen when the top is down and you press the conv top button to put the top up (assuming the doors are closed and the windows are almost all the way up). does this happen in your car? the microswitch that controls the window drop is located in the top latch receptacle itself. i think it is a $20 part and it is very easy to replace. i would put your top all the way up, latch it, put the windows all the way up, and then unlatch the top to see if the windows drop a few inches. they should.
have you checked the fuses? i would start the car and let it idle until the fans come on (stand/sit in front of car and wait for them to turn on). note the coolant temp and the approximate amount of time it took for the fans to turn on.
not sure of the install, but wondering how much the aluminum look cap cost. ? i've seen prices around $140. the cap looks great, but i just can't justify buying a $140 cap that no one but me will see. if it was $40, i could. ;)
why do people automatically replace the MAF for 1128/1130 codes? if you do any reading on here, you'll see that a new MAF usually doesn't solve these codes. if the Air-Oil Separator (AOS) was not changed with the engine, check your AOS bellows tube. that is the most common (vac leak) cause of 1128/1130. change the AOS proactively and see if your code goes away. it's a lot cheaper than a new MAF, and the AOS is destined for failure eventually.
are you sure that the brakes need changing, or is it just that you want to? ;) 36000km = ~22K miles. my original pads and rotors went almost 80K miles before needing replacement - and even then i could have stretched it another 3K miles. it doesn't seem likely that your car *needs* a brake job unless it has been tracked/raced/etc. now, if you *want* to change brakes for a better look, there's nothing wrong with that if you have the money. http://www.designrt.net sells Zimmerman rotors (OEM) that are cross-drilled and/or slotted for use on non-S cars. cost is approximately $350. FREE shipping, too! it doesn't look like they have the Boxster rotors listed on the website, but give them a call, they do sell them. you'll want to get the rotors with the painted rotor 'hats' so they don't rust. you can choose the color. as for pads, i use Mintex Red Box pads and you can find them on eBay for ~$50 per axle. they work great and don't dust too much. here's the link for the brake DIY: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/ the site above that 'eddison' pointed you to (Mike Focke's Boxster Pages) is invaluable to any and all Boxster owners - BOOKMARK IT! and the most important thing, 'Boxster' has an 'S' in it!! :D good luck!
i got the instructions from a number of forum members. you know who you are. thanks! :) i suppose i should post them for posterity, yes?
sorry, this isn't really much help, but... you say you have a door lock cylinder on the passenger side? consider yourself lucky! from what i understand, these cars are rare. for example, my '97 only has a lock cylinder on the driver's side. some cars for some reason have this passenger side door lock cylinder. i WISH that my car had this. it *may* be that cars w/o the alarm system installed have both-sides door locks. that would make sense. otherwise, if your only door lock broke, you would have no way to get into the car. have you tried turning the key all the way in both directions? on your driver's door lock, you might try putting some powdered graphite in there to lube the lock. but if it's sticky, it may be on its way out. a new door lock is a serious pain in the a$, as if you want your lock to arrive cut to accept your current key(s), you must order it from Porsche using your VIN. i guess this takes a while... as far as the alarm retrofit, i don't see why you couldn't do it. look under your driver's seat to see what black box you have. i have the M535 alarm system w/remote capabilities. the M531 system is just the central door locking system. M536 is the M535 w/tilt sensors. i'm guessing the necessary wiring harnesses should be there and ready to accept an alarm system. after that, you'll probably need to have it coded or something.
thanks Loren. i knew you would know. ;) i'll check the factory manuals. update: i checked the factory manuals that *i* have, and i don't see the section you are referring to. any chance you might post the procedure for posterity? ;) thanks.
me and a friend of mine both had our M535 alarm/locking/immobilizer computers get soaked. after drying them out, cleaning with alcohol, etc., we are still missing some functions (mine more than his). we both have brand-new M535 computers and access to a PST2. we are in the process of getting our IPAS codes from the dealer/Porsche so that we can program these new computers. does anyone know the actual PST2 procedure for coding these immobilizer computers? it would be a giant help! both of the computers work well enough to allow the car to be started. and yes, we have both cleaned out our drains. ;) thanks!