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For further clarification, it lowers when I'm locking the car with the fob, to leave it parked... not when driving and lock doors.
Couldn't find any info on this elsewhere... is it normal for the air suspension to release pressure and lower the ride height to the lowest 'loading position' whenever you lock the doors? When I don't lock the doors, it stays in the prior set position. Seems unnecessary to lower every time... looks badass slammed, but... TIA!
Need advice - just replaced both lower control arms on my 05 CTT, (both in dire need on the rear bushing (ball joints ok, etc.)) Had been experiencing the vibration in the steering wheel at 45-55MPH as well as more pronounced at 70-80MPH, and wouldn't go away with wheel balance. Both rear bushings were shot... and BTW, found Lemforder at Autohaus AZ for $173ea!!! Question is... I read a post that the car should be down on it's wheels when you torque the nuts on the bushings (as well as the steering strut to the control arm) as it is desired to have the ride height of the car as would be standard when you tighten stuff up. Question is, how do you accomplish this task under the car when somehow you need to get 180lb feet on the nut (and BTW, can't even get my torque wrench on either nut due to clearance around the arm near the nut)? I don't necessarily want to put it in the highest air suspension setting (I don't think) as I normally ride in lowered setting...I tried to put the jack under the control arm to compress the control arm to ride height but the air suspension has pumped up the front and has it in 4x4 mode! Any thoughts on 1) how to get a torque wrench capable of 180 lbs on the nut and 2) how to do this with zero clearance between the garage floor and the nut for me and a wrench... I know I'll be headed to a shop for an alignment...maybe they do this on the rack? Should I just 'get em pretty tight' and then take it to a shop? How will they get the torque wrench on it?! Thanks!!
Glad you got this sorted lewisweller! Those pipes are very tough to get positioned when it is largely a blind fit. I second the notion that I will not miss getting inside the fuel tanks after 2x in...
Yes, I used VDO as well. Was the 2nd round...I bought some that were cheaper off of a 3rd party seller on Amazon, and one of them had a cracked case, so sent those back. Couldn't find any brand markings on them...sent both back and rebought VDO on Partsgeek for ~$248/ea. Cheaper than Pelican by a bit. My lesson learned in this was - don't trust the gauge alone. If you are showing 3/4 of a tank when full, the float is likely getting stuck on the fuel lines in the tank...did some research and it is a common thing after replacing the pumps. It is hard to get the fuel lines properly positioned in that tight space and blindly when re-installing the FPR and Filter flanges. I would not think that the fuel gauge float sticking would cause a stall by itself. I would look at things that are a) not in redundancy (fuel pumps, sensor banks, etc.) but rather are single points of failure, and b) not electronic (since no codes thrown)... Fuel, spark, air, timing.... My gut (not science) tells me 'no codes' reduces the likelyhood of issue being spark and timing, probably not an air issue, so I'd look at fuel to start. The thing that is strange is that you got it to restart... maybe fuel resettled / drained back down from the fuel rail / etc. after the tow allowing you to get it started?
Wizard, you have earned your moniker... Update: Went back and re-ran Durametric. Found another code that was fuel level sensor... I am now hypothesizing that the lines that supply the fuel pump were not routed properly by yours truly, and was preventing the float from returning to...zero. When my instrument panel told me I had 145 miles and the fuel gauge red 1/2 tank, that is/was due to the float being restricted from settling down past 1/2 tank. Thus, my assumption was incorrect that I had plenty of fuel in the tank...I am out of f**king gas. Put in 1 gallon, cranked, started. So, looks like I still need some O2 sensors...and a full tank of gas. And just FYI, the symptoms above as I described would be 100% in alignment with one running out of gas, no? Good news is that the tank is now empty as it should be to open up the tank for line re-routing...and @lewisweller, it would have thrown a code saying 'low fuel' if I hadn't botched the line routing. ;) Ugh. Embarrassing.
After the repairs, it was running fine for 500+ miles after the repairs without issue, and these O2 sensor messages were not present at the time I did the repair so I put that on lower probability but could check... Also, not seeing faults on the fuel pump as I would see if no power to pumps, etc.
Need some help... I have a new to me 05 CTT, with 110k on the clock. Was driving home last night and after a full throttle run from the light, over the next couple of miles started intermittently losing engine power and regaining it like it was being switched on and off like a light switch then subsequently dying completely. Electrical power still on, engine still running at 2k during power loss, and basically as if the throttle pedal was inoperative. It was very abrupt, dropping from 4-5k rpms, immediately to 2-2.5k rpms, then reengaging on power again as if a switch had been flipped on and off. It would last 2-5 seconds each time, and over the next 2 miles became more frequent until the engine finally died completely, stranding me on the side of the road. Initially, it acted as if it might turn over again with a chug here and there, but then it would only crank with no start. No CEL at any point. Towed home, let it cool overnight. Tried cranking again, and it would only turn over, not fire. Pulled Fuse 13, no start. Replaced 13, pulled 14, no start. Replaced. Note that just last week I replaced both fuel pumps, the FPR, and the Filter (flange). Plenty of fuel in the tank. Hooked up the durametric, and the only codes were as follows: P0513 Incorrect Mobilizer Key, Implausable signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC Light P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Implausable signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC Light P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1 - Implausable signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC Light Need some help on thoughts... again, no CEL, no faults on MAF or CPS, or throttle position sensor... which would have been my initial thoughts. Have not opened up to look at MAF or done any testing on CPS yet...looking for where to start based on probable scenarios... Thanks!!