BufordTJustice

Purchased these from ECS Tuning for $43/pair. They're listed as "997 Turbo Rear Brake Cooling Duct Kit". Part number 997-331-487-02KT. Attached are some cell pics of the mods/trimming I did to them in order to get them to fit without rubbing or scraping anything when the wheels are not fully dropped (like they would be on a lift; slight, non harmful contact between the plastic and surrounding material when wheels are at full droop). I did not need to trim the rear brake disc shield; air would be directed onto the disc and into the rotor hat with no modification. I could have trimmed an inch or so... Maybe less.... But it wouldn't have mattered for me as this is a cab (and not a track car). However, cool brakes are happy brakes. And, here in central Florida, I do like to bomb some back roads and they can get quite hot. I already have GT3 cup (the $30 polymer clip on) brake ducts on the front brakes and they keep the pedal feeling quite hard, whereas the pedal could gain a softer character after a half hour of hard driving with the OEM 996 front brake ducts. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-porsche-parts/997-turbo-rear-brake-cooling-duct-kit/99733148702kt/ Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

That has a metal center tube, and the media isn't even dark yet, so it can't be very dirty at all. Cellulose media. Just the way it is. But, here's the test fit of the Fram ultra XG3675 on the LN Engineering adapter: Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

It's a good point and I cannot find any comments by LN on the subject. There is plenty of info, however, by engineers at Fram/Champ Labs/Amsoil over on bob is the oil guy in reference to filter media flow rates and the consensus is clear; syn media is able to flow significantly more oil than cellulose media at the same beta ratio (say, 25 microns). So, as you said, it cannot hurt. Especially when the 6 pack of XG3675 is $30 shipped to one's door via eBay. If the cost were exhorbitant, I would say it's gilding the lily. But it's a minor cost that offers major insurance. I think Donaldson has some whitepapers on the subject (they invented the first fully synthetic filtration media for big rigs). EDIT: Here is a link to a Donaldson Synteq media paper: http://asia.donaldson.com/en/ih/support/datalibrary/050552.pdf Some may say that no filter would behave any differently, but that would be mildly difficult to believe after one considers a 300+% increase in flow rate when clean, and up a 500% increase in flow rate when moderately loaded with contaminants. Fram Ultras are at walmart for $9. I know that the Napa 1042 Gold is barely any cheaper.

Your finding brings up an important point. I have deeply researched oil filter filtration media for several years now, and have an LN adapter for my 996 waiting on my doorstep at my hosue as I type this. The filter that LN recommends is a no-bypass design. This means that all oil is forced through the media, all the time. Even during cold starts (when the oil is thick) or during high RPM usage, when most oil filters with bypass valves will go into bypass for short periods of time. This makes the delta-P (pressure differential) across the face of the filter media a critical aspect of filter choice for owners of M96/M97 engines using the LN adapter. It should be noted that the bypass mechanism built into the M96's plastic oil filter cartridge cap appears to be both weak and unreliable. However, and back to filter media, it's important to use a filter that has fully synthetic filter media. This means a short list of filter lines from which to choose: Fram Ultra, Royal Purple, Purolator BOSS, Amsoil EaO, Toyota TRD (made by RP), Napa Platinum (made by Wix, equivalent to Wix XP), and Wix XP. Our cars require the vastly superior flow rate that fully synthetic media supports, along with the better filtration that this media also provides; this is because fully syn media filters in 3 dimensions (through the full depth of the media), while paper-based media is only able to filter on its surface. Part numbers that have the matching 13/16-16 thread pitch and proper dimensions for our 996's according to my copious research: Fram Ultra XG3675 Royal Purple 20-59 Purolator BOSS PBL25288 Wix XP 57202XP All of the above have fully synthetic media and will flow at least 2-3 times as much oil as a clean paper/cellulose filter media would in the same size canister....with some supporting up to 5 times as much flow as paper when dirty. And, all references to flow are with paper media that has the same beta ratio (micron rating). This has been verified by Amsoil (which used to use Donaldson syn filter media), Fram, Champ Labs/Royal Purple, and Purolator; syn media flows and filters better. The Fram Ultra can be had in 6-packs on eBay for around $35, is 99.9% @ 20microns as tested by Fram, uses a dual-layer fully synthetic media, and has a silicone anti drainback valve (another excellent feature that keeps oil in all the passages between the filter and the galleries, which the OEM setup does not have). I have a 6 pack being shipped to me currently and will advise once they arrive. This filter size is typically fitted to small block GM V8 motors which have an internal bypass valve arrangement inside the engine block. Eliminating the bypass valve altogether is not a bad thing, but caution must be taken to avoid what Schnell experienced...even with very high quality paper media or hybrid media filters (usually cellulose with fiberglass applied on top of it). I have also purchased N52 and N50 neodymium bar magnets for pennies per magnet (the same magnets used inside of a FilterMag), which I'm going to arrange on the outside of each filter prior to install. So, in sum, I feel it important to note that it is wise to avoid any std paper media filter (or even hybrids like the Purolator PureOne or Mobil-1 filters) in favor of filters that have fully synthetic media.

I use a lot of AGM style deep cycle batteries at my work place (Odyssey, Optima, Exide Edge, etc.) and I have had a few yellow top (light grey body) and blue top (light grey body) batteries that had to be returned to Optima after virtually no use. Not bad mouthing Optima, but their QC may have been slipping. I do know that the prior owner, while they meticulously maintained the car, they did not drive it much at all. Additionally, they only used the original "wall wart" charger sparingly, even after installing the Optima Red Top. I suspect that, because I wasn't taking advantage of the "AGM mode" on the CTEK charger until 4 weeks ago, that the battery was very weak when I got it and wasn't getting the input charging voltage it wanted to see. Going into AGM/Arctic mode has caused the battery to turn the engine over much more vigorously and quickly than prior to using that mode. The Red top may, in fact, be weaker than your Duralast Platinum AGM (see QC comments above). But it'll be difficult to know until I conduct a test like yours and leave it unplugged for three weeks. I'll do so and report back.

Have you upgraded the oil pressure bypass spring and piston with the upgraded parts? I'd look there. Also, what oil did you use? I read on Bob is the oil guy recently that Mobil changed the formulation of their A40 0W-40 oil..... And that the kinematic viscosity is now on the very low end of the 40 weight scale. Castrol is slightly heavier in kV. I'd look at the piston, spring, and washer first. I recently bought all at pelican for $23 shipped. Bumped my oil pressure ever so slightly at hot idle, though mine wasn't low. Loren and Jeff have both listed the part numbers in other threads. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

I actually already had a CTEK 7002 kit prior to buying my '99 996 C2 Cab. Have used it on many different vehicles with great success.... And now on my 996 as well. The previous owner installed an Optima red top before selling it to me. I use the "AGM" setting on the CTEK 7002. The cig lighter adapter works great. It's also impossible to overcharge because it automatically switches to trickle charge. The original Porsche wall-wart trickle charger was included as well, but it's not designed for the slightly higher charging voltage that AGM batteries benefit from. I have transitioned all interior bulbs to canbus friendly LED bulbs. Also put an LED festoon bulb in the frunk. That actually helped slow battery drain a lot. I can now go a full 7 days without the charger connected (and zero run time) and the car turns over just as if I had the charger plugged in. Before the LED bulbs, it was observably more sluggish during cranking. Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk