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356to966

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356to966 last won the day on February 26 2018

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About 356to966

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • From
    Morro Bay, CA, USA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2002 996 Cabriolet
  • Former cars
    1959 356A Coupe<br />
    1967 911S Coupe<br />
    1968 911S Coupe<br />
    1971 911S Targa<br />
    1972 911S Coupe<br />
    1974 914 2L<br />
    1974 914 2L

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  1. Several years ago, I faced the same dilemma as you; to lower the car one inch and still have a ride that copes with local roads that are anything but smooth. At that time I thought all the choices of lowering springs all came with higher spring rates. Thinking that the Eibachs were maybe closer to the stock rates than others, I installed them in combination with Bilstien dampers. Because our car is C2 Cab with Tip it’s heavier in the rear than possibly yours is. At least at that time, Eibachs came as a one size fits all so I got more drop in the rear than I wanted. I next tried keeping the Eibach/Bilstein arrangement on the front and stock springs/Koni at the rear. The reasoning was that the Koni”s being low pressure units rather than the high pressure Bilsteins they wouldn’t assist the springs. That sort of worked. Some drop on the rear and little over one inch on the front. I lived with this imperfect set up for a couple of years and then replaced the whole mismatched mess with KW Variant 3 coil-overs.
  2. Struts live in a pretty harsh world with road grit and moisture being thrown at them. The stock struts have a pretty good dust cover arrangement to protect the damper shafts and seals but the coil-over replacements I’m familiar with don’t have nearly as effective protection. There’s an easy and inexpensive solution in the form of the Coil-Over Socks that I’ve photographed here. The socks have a velcro seam top to bottom so they just wrap and zip to install. I’ve had mine for some time and they’re holding up well. The best part is that my coil-overs were nice and clean when I later went in to adjust ride heights.
  3. Thanks for the valuable advice DBJoe and KK. Without you, I would surely have had a half finished job while waiting delivery of the small parts you warned me about.
  4. The water pump on my 02 C2 is due for another replacement. I do this at 60,000 mile intervals as a preventative measure. While doing the pump I’m thinking that this would be a good time to replace the coolant tank. Its still original unit and though is not leaking it looks very yellow and brittle. I’ve read what others have posted on the tank replacement and their clear instructions are much appreciated. My question is; are there hoses or fittings related to the work that I should be replacing or at least, have on hand ? Thanks for all the help this forum has given me.
  5. Thanks A B. I'll do that and report here what they find.
  6. Thanks JFP. I checked clearances this morning and nothing is close to touching.
  7. I have one of those situations where the car shows symptoms of a problem when cold that can’t be duplicated when later warmed and at the repair shop. Here’s what’s happening. With my 02 C2 cab nearing 140K miles, it was time to have struts replaced again and for the first time, attend do all the little squeaks and knocks coming from tired suspension components. Up front I now have new: front control arms (lower and trailing), coil-over struts and top mounts, sway bar drop links and bushings, and inner and outer tie rods. I thought I was set for years to come but something new has cropped up. When the car is backed up with steering hard left, I experience three or four pronounced "snatches" or ‘grabs" coming from the front left. The steering wheel jumps and I feel a series of rapid bumps through the seat. Ease off the left turn and all is smooth again. It only happens when the car is cool. The snatching does not happen when backing hard right or when the car is stationary and the steering wheel run to and fro. Even though I’ve gotten in the habit of not steering near hard left first thing in the morning, I think I should have this sorted out. It would be good if I could point my shop in the right direction so if anyone has a cue to tell them it, would be much appreciated.                  
  8. I need to replace the foam bottom pad in the driver’s side seat in my 02 Cab. I looked under and as it is heated-memory, there’s a daunting array of wiring and connectors. I saw the two nylon clips that attach the front of the pad to its rails and wonder if these are released, can the pad be removed without taking the whole seat out of the car? Any advice would be much appreciated.
  9. 02, C2 Cab now at 140,000 miles. Looks and runs great but has had the gamut of problems. Everything from a $10 ignition switch to a $22,000 engine. Love the car in spite of all and plan to keep driving it for another 10 years.
  10. My fuel pump died at 135,000 miles and 16 years old.
  11. Thanks for the reply JFP. I went right out to my garage and put everything back together. Very happy to be back on the road again.
  12. I’m in the process of replacing the fuel pump in my 2002 C2. The Fuel Level Sending Unit above the pump came out with some juggling to free it and disconnect the fuel lines to the pump. When I upended the unit on my work bench, about a cup of dirty black gas came out. I know Porsche redesigned the punp and sender in 02 eliminating the fuel filter. Now I’m wondering is the newer (and much larger) Fuel Level Sending Unit has a non-serviceable filter built into it and that’s why I saw residue in the gas that drained out of it. Does anyone know and also, not wanting to send dirty gas downline, should I be thinking about replacing the sender? Thanks
  13. I only had to do the driver's side and I did unbolt the seat to tip it up to gain access and hold it with a box too. Judgejon, I think you're right, the underside of the seats mirror one another.
  14. Because my wife and I share the driving and she’s a small person, our power seats get quite a work out. I once posted on how to handle groaning noise in the fore and aft adjustment. Lately we had grinding noise in the seat height adjuster. Here’s what I found. There’s three electic motors under each seat; one for each function: back/front, height and tilt. The height motor drives the lift mechanism with an about foot long bowden cable and this cable was the source of my noise. The cable is very similar to an old-fashioned speedometer cable and just like of old, when the cable gets noisy, it just needs lubrication. Its an easy job though the seat needs to be unbolted and tilted up from the front to get access. No need to unplug wires. The cable is fastened on each end with a clip and two torex screws. Undo one end and feed lubricant in between the inner cable and its outer housing. You can use a dedicated speedo lube but I just patiently fed in motor oil. Now the adjustment is back to a gentle hum instead of an ugly grinding rasp.
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