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About doublegarage

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  • From
    Santa Cruz, CA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2011 Cayenne S
  • Future cars
    2007 911

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  1. Okay then I don't understand. The locking chirps are made by the alarm siren. I'm talking about the locking chirps - I think Johnny is too. [sorry - I wrote "alarm chirps" - now edited]
  2. Loren, two alarm chirps is correct when the car locks. see page 20 of the 2011-2012 Cayenne manual - extract below.
  3. Johnny, Mine used to chirp maybe once, and only sometimes do the hazard-flash. Then it got worse and stopped chirping, hazards flashed immediately and all the time. The guy on the closed thread replied to me privately and said "Replacing the Siren with a new one (I think the new one part# ended in D) fixed the problem" Having now held a bad alarm-siren in my hand and felt the (lack of) quality, I'd definitely make that the first thing I'd change. It's in a vulnerable place (underneath water streaming down off windshield) and has its connector facing up into the flow. It took about 90 minutes to do it - awkward place so I ended up flat on my stomach lying across the engine - let me know if you need any help. You need a windshield wiper arm puller. Mark up the wiper's splines before removal so you can re-align them afterwards. -Richard
  4. By the way - re-reading above - huge thanks to Don and I especially endorse his suggestion that I try a different diag, tool to Durametric - I should have asked the Porsche mech what he used but maybe it was the iCarScan that Don proposes. Anyway, I would have nailed this 10 months ago with a better tool. -Richard
  5. 13 months after originally requesting help with this problem - I fixed it today. The car eventually got to the point where, when you used the remote to lock the doors, they would lock (one exception described below), then the hazard warning lights would immediately flash and do so forever, or until the battery was flat. There was no beep from the alarm system. One other clue was that the left rear door failed to lock, you could always open that after locking the car. I had a new lock actuator fitted - that cured the door not locking, but not the flashing lights. The guy who worked on door lock pulled codes with his box which is evidently better than my Durametric since I had never seen these: C13212 Communication with alarm siren (rear 2) C13112 Rear control unit LIN Bus fault: alarm siren (rear 2) Lots of googling with the new clue "alarm siren" and I found this thread on rennlist: 958 Cayenne DIY: Replacing the alarm module - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM Cayenne DIY - 958 Cayenne DIY: Replacing the alarm module - Mine went bad. When I lock it, the hazard lights get activated non-stop until I unlock the CTT. LED front and rear lights are bright enough for neighbors to complain at night. Part #: 1K8951605B 1) It is not under the fuse box in the engine... That thread is "closed" for some reason so I PM'd the guy and he confirmed that he had the same problem and replacing the siren fixed it. So I repeated his job today and mine's fixed too. The alarm siren (new part # 1K0-951-605-C - about $160 from everyone) is located underneath the wiper-motor assembly at the base of the windshield. So you have to: 1) remove wiper-arm nut caps 2) remove 16mm wiper arm nuts x3. Easier to get the 3rd one if you disconnect the hood-stay and lean the hood back onto the (well-padded) windshield 3) use a wiper-arm puller to remove the arms - i'd marked the spindles/arms so I could put them back on the right spline 4) lift up and remove the wide plastic piece that fits along windshield base 5) 5 screws (T30) hold in the wiper mechanism - all pretty obvious 6) unclip the big wiring harnesses and hold to one side as you lift wiper system out - unplug big connector to it as you go - siren is now revealed 7) he removed the siren-bracket from the bulkhead instead of siren from bracket - I did the same, connector is awkward - then new one goes in and re-assemble everything. Test the wipers and test the lock button. All good. The part is plastic alarm siren made by Cobra in Italy - seems like a pretty crappy piece. Thanks for all the help above, cheers, -Richard
  6. Well as I stated somewhere above "anything that is 'fixed' but you don't know how/why...will come back to bite you" - and of course, it has now come back, only worse. Completely predictable. latest code reading session was very clean with the exception of this one: BCM Rear 4639 / 121F Warning Indicator On Test Not Completed blabla... Fault Active That code persists after any attempt to erase it with Durametric. Googling that code gives no results whatsoever. Is there a master decode list somewhere for all these codes? - maybe only the dealers have that. To repeat the symptoms, Car locks normally, 2 beeps then lights go out - then after some period between 10 and 120 seconds, the hazard flashers come one, lights at base of tailgate (inside) come on, loud clicking 2x speed of hazards from panel right of cargo space (i.e. inside of gas cap, but further rearward). Door red LEDs go bl.blip...bl.blip instead of slower single flash. Goes on forever, only 'cure' is to not lock the car. I removed the little grill that's inside the base of the trunk side window and slid my new handy WiFi borescope in there - found there are about 3 "computer" boxes in there (i.e. boxes with connectors) but couldn't really read any labels apart from "7P0.907.801.C;" which is a Parking Brake control module. Couldn't tell what was clicking, convinced myself it wasn't from the gas flap lock but further towards rear. Battery is new. charging voltages etc are all good. Could be a footwell flood problem as Don suggests above. So am bracing myself for a dealer visit for some proper diagnostics - but wondering whether anyone has heard of such a thing. Or knows what 4639/121F means. Thanks, -Richard
  7. Wow, Don, thank you - this is going above and beyond. I have played with the gas cap quite a lot. I've done things like, locked the car while leaning on the cap, locked while pulling outwards on the cap. Made no difference, but your experiments make me want to persevere with it. I take your point about that being the only "clicking thing" in that area. I know what you mean about the complexity of the lock - also strange the way you can do the push the cap while locked, then unlock and the cap pops out without touching it. Right now the problem is...it's not doing it. Not all day today and not this evening when I just went outside to play with it. I haven't changed anything, haven't filled with gas etc - just opened closed all doors and tailgate. However, long experience tells me that anything that is 'fixed' but you don't know how/why...will come back to bite you, and just at the worst moment. I'd never heard of the flooded-footwell problem, I'll do a search - no sign of damage/residue when I swapped out the battery at the weekend, but then I was hefting lead+acid and not really looking for that. The interior of the battery compartment was spotless though cos I looked for acid-spill residue etc. Thanks again and I'll keep you posted, maybe even take you up on that drive to NJ - it's been a while. -Richard
  8. Thanks again Don. Yeah I'm confused by the Durametric at the moment - 2 reasons: - no way of understanding the codes - google them and find no info at all - do you mean with a different tool it might interpret the codes for me? - communications failure when I try to clear, for instance, the door or seat codes. Then have to re-start the software etc. (and tell it AGAIN which Porsche I have and that it's a V8) I've only had it a month, do I really have to buy another one? :-) To answer your other question, yes I'm pretty sure the fuel-flap is okay, I've tried locking with it open, closed, pressed it had shut etc - seems to be working fine. -Richard
  9. A new problem: Every time I lock the car, after about 30 seconds, the hazard warning lights start flashing at normal speed, as though I hit the switch on the console. Other clues: - there's a fast ticking from behind the gas-cap - faster than the flashing cycle. Is that where the rear BCM is mounted? It's louder inside the car - the rear tailgate lights come on solid - the ones that illuminate below when the tailgate is open, they're on inside the car with it closed - unclearable fault on the BCM rear with Durametric 3615 / E1F Warning Indicator On ...(usual test not completed blurb..) Fault Active - door LED double flashes "bli-blip....bli-blip" instead of typical "blip.....blip" (hope that makes sense) What I have done so far: - This was happening Thursday, Friday I bought a new, correct Bosch AGM battery and replaced the Mercedes wet-battery that was in there (why don't people get the right parts??, it's not like Mercedes parts are cheaper...) - cleared codes in everything else I could find (used to be two in BCM rear, but above one will not clear) - I see codes in FL door/FR door (something upper-limit exceeded) but Durametric crashes when I try to clear them - Also codes in front seat (upper-limit exceeeded) but again, Durametric crashes when I try to clear - car didn't do it all weekend after initial code-clearing session and new battery - didn't drive Monday, drove to work today and it's doing it again. Problem is, I unlock the car, it stop, car self-re-locks after 60 seconds, fault recurs. Just once in the night it also made a quiet sort of wailing beep - I've never heard the alarm go off but if this was the alarm, it's pretty quiet. Thanks for any suggestions. -Richard
  10. Yes I bought all 8 from Sunset Porsche. The problem has never re-occurred. Good luck, -Richard
  11. Hello, and thanks for the reply. On another forum suggested the bad-coil idea - and there was one code which suggested a misfire on cylinder 5 - that cylinder was therefore shutting down and the car running rough until I cleared the code. I changed that single coil, and the car hasn't had the problem since - therefore I changed the other 7 coils. It seems that changing coils should be a service item - everyone who's had the problem sees them failing at about 70k miles like mine. Thanks, -Richard
  12. Thanks Loren - the car starts like a champ, really cranks over fast, so it hadn't occurred to me it could be the battery. But I see what you mean. I'll take a look at the ground cables, then change the battery. -Richard
  13. I'm confused by a fault that keeps appearing on my 2011 Cayenne S. 71,800 miles, I've owned since 70,500 with little history known before my ownership. Therefore sorting through the usual new-owner issues. I'll illustrate with an example. - Last night, car was running perfectly, had been fine for about 150 miles - connected Durametric and saw no codes under engine, PSM, tiptronic, AWD etc - this morning - 60 mile roundtrip - about 3 miles from home suddenly car feels like it's running rough, maybe on 6 or 7 cylinders, dashboard alternates between "Check Engine", "PSM Failure" and "Start-stop deactivated" - switched car off/on - no change - got home and read codes as follows: Engine: P0305 Upper limit value exceeded PSM: U112300 Databus error value received Factory Fault Code 336397 Warning Indicator On Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Not Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Not Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active AWD: 293 / 125 PSM activation by PTM Warning Indicator Off Pending DTC Test Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active AWD: 12656773 / C12085 Check PSM control unit fault memory content Warning Indicator Off Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active So the P0305 is misfire on cylinder 5, I get that. Back home the car was idling and running roughly when I cleared that code and it instantly smoothed out. Does it shut down cyl5 when a misfire is detected more than some number of times? Normally I'd pull that plug and inspect/replace that coil etc, but the fact that it happens in conjunction with all the PSM warnings has me suspicious. Can anyone throw some light on the PSM and AWD faults? Searching for those numbers hasn't helped yet - still searching, but thought I'd ask here too. Note, clearing these codes cleans everything up, no codes return and all runs perfectly - until next time (3 cycles so far) -Richard Santa Cruz, CA 2011 Porsche Cayenne S
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