Jerry Prado

I don't think that a booster will help a zero station problem. You probably have a faulty antenna connection somewhere. You can test this easily with an FM modulator connected to an MP3 player or any other source. Here are some steps: 1. Obtain an FM modulator- any cheap model from the "phone accessory rack" will work. Since you are receiving very few stations, you can tune it to any frequency. 2. Launch some content on the player and verify that you are transmitting by testing on a "good" radio install 3. Take the setup to the problem car and move the transmitter close to your windshield antenna, then close to the head unit. 4. You should hear a substantial volume gain when you move the test setup up to the windshield, like when you move it close to the head unit. If you hear no difference, then you have a bad connection somewhere. You can use the test setup as a signal tracer to help locate the problem. Modern day head units are far less sensitive than old school radios were so they will never perform like an old Pioneer SuperTuner or other hi-perf old radio. . Current radios use PLL (phase lock loop) RF chips that can be tuned from low frequencies all the way up to microwave. The SmartPhone explosion provided this inexpensive PLL technology. However, these chips don't compare in performance to an RF section that uses discrete components combined with a design that is tailored to a specific band such as FM's 88-108 mhz spectrum. A quick note on Boosters: they range dramatically in terms of cost and functionality. Some have a single transistor that will amplify noise and multipath along with the valid signal. Others are multi-stage and incorporate filters. I would double-check everything first prior to trying a booster. Hope this helps.Jerry Prado

That is a nice write-up! I am buckling up a major Winter project on my 2000 986 (2Din head unit,996 cluster,OBD, piggyback Alarm system). Audio I attached some pics of the speaker direction I went in as choosing speakers was my top priority. My decision process was to : 1) Determine what speakers sounded best , and would fit a. Prepare the car for the auditions (remove head unit, install rear speakers / wires etc) b. Wire a home theater receiver to the speakers for the testing c. Install speakers and listen 2) Now that I decided on speakers, choose amp a. Determine if factory amp (actually now 6x40, same specs) could work with mods b. Test with HT receiver "line out" for proper levels I tested about five different car speakers. None did it for me, I really liked the Dayton RS100-4 but they were too tall,too heavy. I wound up fabricating a substantial mounting mod to make them work. These are the testing prototype pics attached. I used 1/16" plywood for the adapter ring and the housing from the original speaker. The problem with using a speaker like this is that they are much heavier than an auto speaker. So, I basically potted the entire assembly in epoxy for strength, drilled the 6 mounting holes needed for the Dayton, and put it in for final measurements. I have a full 1/4" clearance everywhere and they sound great! More as I have time to write. Next, I will post my mods of the factory amp(s). Jerry Prado