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if you read the factory manual, it says to use a heat gun and peel off - this workes for me - of course once they are cracked with age it's harder. above comments on technique are good. by the way, I need to get rid of an 87 944 quickly - anyone want one (southern CA) - needs a some body work, but mechanically great, new clutch,etc.
note - this same issue is also posted on the renlist site in case different folks read the two sites - so if you've seen it there, it's the same problem.... ok, we have here a real WTF situation - perhaps one of you folks has encountered this before and can offer some thoughts - 1. the car - 1987 944S - the 16 valve kind 2. the situation - replaced front seals (crankshaft and balance shafts), which involved removing the old timing belt, tensioner, the pulley and sprokets on the crank, replacing the seals and putting it all back together. no problem, right? WRONG ---- put it back together with new tensioning roller and new belt. Set tensioner to minimum position to install, and belt would not fit - about one or two teeth two short. So, what have I done: 1. removed new belt and new roller, replaced wtih original belt and roller - the original combo is too short. 2. verified proper belt (1 inch wide) with proper number of teeth. verified proper part number on new and old roller. 3. removed drive sprocket from crankshaft and reversed it - didn't think this would matter, and it didn't - still too short. Note that the manual for the regular (8 valve) cars shows a sprocket on the crank that has a flange, and the flange goes away from the engine and towards the balance shaft drive sprocket - I had speculated that I might have reversed this and the belt might be riding on the flange - well, the sprocket in my car has no flange, so reversing doesn't matter. 4. checked part number on original sprocket - it is cast with the part number 944-105-125-05. So, just to be safe, I look up in PET 6 (and also in the PDF you can DL directly from Porsche), and (it's MG1, SG 2) you find this part, item 14 on the exploded view, and the part number is 944-105-125-06. -- ok, minor WTF, but this sprocket was on the car and working, so it couldn't have grown or something. 5. took tensioner to my milling machine, enlongated the adjustment slot by about 3/16 inch - put it all back together again - that helped, but belt is still too tight if I force it on, and tensioner still on stop (max spring compression). 6. started car (with belt too tight) and let it idle for about 10 minutes and shut it down - tensioner still on stop. So, this makes no sense - I noticed nothing amiss when I took it apart, so I am pretty darned sure the tensioner was not bottomed out at that time. I have not removed the head nor the sprocket on the cam shaft - only the sprocket on the crank and the tensioner. Didn't mess with water pump either. Old parts don't fit, new parts don't fit, and they are too close for it to be something really stupid like putting the tensioner in wrong (after all, it goes over those 3 studs - you can't put it in off by a "tooth" or something like a distributor on a 38 plymouth. So come on guys - someone must have a theory on this - I realy don't want to just mill the slot a little longer and make the problem disappear, though I may have to. (oh, and I notice that the S has a different tensioner too than the regular cars - wonder what the difference is?)
following up - original problem was caused when someone (before me) welded a repair on the threaded "ear" that supports the front of the compressor and hold it to the mounting bracket - the heat from the weld weakened an o-ring in the adapter plate that adapts the compressor body to the hose set - anyway, I decided to replace the front seal also - had some "challenges" doing that due to my own attempt at taking a short cut - broke the new seal, put the old one back - original leak fixed, but old seal leaks slowly - pulled AC pump back out and sent to PolarBear to install a new seal (they charge $80 to reseal a compressor - after the repair (my repair) compressor cooled well, so a rebuilt was not needed - no sign of wear or scoring inside either. We shall see how this turns out when compressor comes back from PolarBear - meanwhile, see separate thread about timing belt problem - that has me really baffled
the AC compressor on my daughter's 944S seeps oil/freon from the center seam of the compressor - otherwise works fine - so, time to change the o-rings and the front seal. The process for changing the seal is described in the service manual, along with special tools to use. I have a reasonable home machine shop (4 ft metal lathe, horiz/vertical mill, etc) and can easily make most of the stuff, but there is a puller for removing the clutch assembly that threads into the hub of the pulley - I can't (easily) cut metric threads, so I either need to buy this tool, find out what the threads are so I can find something with the right threads, or borrow one. I found this tool http://www.handsontools.com/store-products...nt%3E_1066.html but I have no way to find out if it right for my compressor (I have the 10P15E compressor) - does anyone know if this tool fits? or where to find a tool that fits, or even, what threads are required so I can cut them myself?? Or (joy of joy) anyone near los angeles that would care to lend me a set of the tools- that would be amazing - I can, of course, pull the assembly several other ways, but the way in the manual seems like the best - after all, it's the "factory way". following up, I found a listing of needed tools for Porsche (and other) AC service here http://www.mastercool.com/manual/form10.pdf and that list confirms that the above tool is the right one - so I guess I answered part of my own question- but has anyone else done this type of rebuild? any comments or hints? it ought to be easy, but who knows? oh, I'm ordering the kit of O-rings from here polarbearinc.com
well, it was somewhat tedious, but with the help of my wife, (I drove, she watched the display on the scan tool) I managed to get the monitors to set - I used the AutoXray 6000 OBD monitor to watch the engine load, and drove in the RPM range indicated in the manual for about 20 minutes, keeping the continuous driving segments as long as possible. The indicated load is very low, if you don't have the specs or a reader to show engine load, try about 30 mph in third gear with minimal throttle - you want to be between 1500 and 2000 rpm with just a tiny bit of load on the engine, just a little more than idle. And, when you start the car, let it idle until the SAI cuts off (about 120 sec) - don't know if that helped or not, but now I'm happy.
for those who are incredibly annoyed at having to replace the electric window switches because a stupid plastic pin breaks off, I've documented my method of repairing the old switch - this is a permanent repair that eliminates the plastic pin that fails. The DIY is on my web site (www.wbnoble.com) click on hobbies and cars and choose the proper article from the menu near the top of the page. There are some other articles there too that may be of interest. I decided to document this once and for all so I wouldn't forget the next time (it's a pretty common failure on my car, at least)
no, that doesn't work - I know it's the theory - the last time I had this issue, I drove 3,000 miles, all types of driving, and it never set any of the non-continuous monitors. This time, it's been 4 days and about 200 miles, freeway and city driving, none have set. These monitors are obviously set in such a way that my "normal" driving does not trigger them.
what if any diagnostics have you done? have you measured power at the switch? have you measured whether power is getting to the motor? have you checked to see if the wires that go into the door have broken? any of these could be a cause, but with no information besides "it doesn't work", it will be hard to help. I'd suspect broken wires, but I'd strongly suggest you trobleshoot systematically
well, I've got the "non continuous monitor" issue again Car = 97 993 Cab - I have been testing various OBD scan tools to read engine parameters trying to find something that would be suitable for this car. One vendor I went to visit saw the Check engine light on and cleard it before I could stop him. So, now it's a matter of hitting the exact drive cycles to set these monitors. These are catalytic converter, evaporative system, secondary air system, O2 system and O2 system heater. I have a copy of pages B3 and B4 from the porsche service manual (Porsche faxed me these pages, they aren't in my set of factory manuals) that describe "driving conditions for reaching readiness code". It says that two trips must be run (that's pretty clear). It then lists 6 cycle flags and the conditions for each. The first is "Catalytic Converter Efficiency" (cycle flag 1). It says "the diagnostic procedure takes a total of 300 sec. The engine must run through 4 speed and load ranges. The procedure isinterrupted when the engine leaves the relevant ranges and continued again when the relevant speed and load ranges are reached again. This means that it is not necessary to run the engine in these ranges for a continuous period of 300 sec." "Manual Transmission" Engine speed: 1120 -2,800 RPM Engine load 1.0-3.0 ms Calculated catalytic converter temperatu4re >300C" ok, now how the heck can I make sure I hit these conditions? I have two OBD code readers - the one I would prefer to use is the AutoXray 6000. That tool has a readout of "load value" which may be the same thing as "engine load", but the units of "load value" are percentage, and the Porsche manual talks about "ms" (milliseconds?). I can certainly monitor RPM, but what are the 4 speed ranges? Does anyone have more information that might let me set these flags? The last time I had this problem, the final solution was to pay a Porsche dealer $350 to drive the car around with their tester hooked up until all the flags set - there just has to be a better way. Does anyone have more information, or additional relevant manual pages, or ??? thanks Bill www.wbnoble.com
For what it's worth, I am a current 993 owner. Car has been quite reliable except for problems induced by being smooshed several times in freeway accidents (probably $35,000 to $40,000 of body work spread over several accidents). Mine is convertible - I bought it with 5K miles - here are significant repairs I've done front brakes (change rotors and pads - both wear out together) belts (Alternator and fan) drive cable for convertible top (a DIY is on my web site, www.wbnoble.com) drive cable for seat (some day I'll write that up - hint - braze the ends first before installing) hood shocks (front/rear) spark plug changes take about 6 hours, oil only takes closer to an hour to 1.5 hours. currently trying to troubleshoot a P1123 code - my car has almost 100K miles on it, so far so good.