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DavidRoss
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For future reference. Similar thread and speaks to why Durametric can't solve this and PIWIS is needed.
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Well, crap. Luckily the car drives safely in current condition so I can skip the tow truck. I'm in Northern Virginia (Herndon) and this is my first issue that requires a shop. Any recommendations on where to take it?
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Thanks. I talked to ECU Doctors and they don't support the RCU. Before taking it to a shop, was hoping to do some further testing to verify the board is in fact bad. I'm 90% sure it is but I'd hate to pay for it to be replaced if it doesnt need to be. The rest of the repairs are straightforward - convertible top ball joints and such. Can the Durametric Pro code the box? I have a feeling that the cost of a shop to do this will rival the cost of the Durametric Pro upgrade - making it worth my while.
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Hello, (First post). All that rain we got in Virginia paid off in a soaked RCU 997-618-260-04 under the driver's seat ?. While driving, things went bonkers - Spoiler up, top tried to retract and broke, alarm goes off. all kind of fun. I have it all apart and dried out. Looking at the RCU under a jewelers loupe, I can find no damage to teh board but I know that doesnt mean much. I get no errors (related to the RCU) when I turn the car on but I can't get the top to do anything. I do get an airbag failure because the seats are out. When I unlatch the roof and windows do NOT drop but the DO drop normally when I open the doors. No reason to suspect the latch microswitch as it's always worked fine. That and when I stick my finger up there, I can make it click. With all the water, obviously the RCU 997-618-260-04 is suspect. Finally, the question: Is there a way to circumvent the latch microswitch and make the roof retract by jumping pins on the RCU box? I want to verify the RCU is in fact bad before I pay for another one. Also, can it be bought pre-programmed? I don't have anyway to code it. Thanks in advance.