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wachuko

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Everything posted by wachuko

  1. OK so does the whole stalk assembly need to be replaced when this happens, or does something simply need to be realigned? If it is not resetting after a turn then it is likely broken and needs replacement - sorry. Argghhh... looks like I will be doing this as well... mine stopped working yesterday. It sucks that we can't fix this. No amount of epoxy will keep that tab in place? EDIT: Found the threads on this. Does not apply to my car since it already has all these functions enabled. Looks like I will need to order a new part then... Also, what are the specifics on the upgraded part? Don't understand the comments on upgrading to the OBC stalk ?? My car is a 2002 996TT with cruise control, etc.
  2. good luck !!! we are waiting for some opinions ! :cheers: and photos!
  3. Sorry to bring this one back to life... how difficult/easy was it to replace? I ordered mine today from Sunset and looking for info on this before I get the new part. Found it! http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...30&hl=glove Thank you!
  4. hehehehe... never mind my earlier post on your search for the car... did not see this one nor the date on the first post... Congratulations on your choice! Starting to mod the car I see. Enjoy it in good health!!
  5. I am not sure on your financial situation... to me having factory warranty left on the car is a great ++ and peace of mind... But this will be your baby, and you should buy the car that moves your senses the most... :drive: Get a good shop to perform a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI), try to find the service history on both cars (a visit to the dealer with the VIN can help get you the history (they will strip out the name of the owners for privacy act reason but all you need is to know the work that has been done). The two cars have such low mileage that I doubt there is something seriously wrong with either one but best to check the service history anyway... also get them to read the codes and look for errors, over-revs type 1 and 2 codes, etc... I am bias towards CF and black cars... so the first car sounds great and it is local, which makes it easier to look at and go over it.. Let us know what you decide on and be sure to post photos!! Cheers!
  6. I suggest going with the Porsche units. I did find a car seat that fits: FisherPrice Safe Voyage Booster Seat -Model EF35B2A With cup holder that fits (not sure why I would want to keep that option in the car... but it works for putting a small toy in there... ) But my son is now 4 years old... Before this one we had the Porsche child seat. I had to cut a piece of cardboard with the same size/shape as the seat area and take it with me to measure the child seats... almost gave up (and was going to buy another Porsche seat) until I found this one.
  7. Well... before leaving the car for service this morning I decided to take out both lights and compare the sockets. Sure enough... and not sure how I did not notice... but the socket contact was a little bit melted and pushed inside not allowing it to make contact with the housing contact. It was very obvious once I compared it with the other one. Placed an order for a new one - Part No. 996-631-118-00 (US$20.90) I bent slightly the housing contact and it is working for now but best to just put a new socket in there to avoid the contact area to get hot again... Bad side of the socket, notice how the contact is not sticking out as it should... possibly due to a bad contact area that created a hot spot and melted the plastic around the contact allowing it to get pushed inside:
  8. That is normal - US only gets one bright rear fog light - so you don't mistake it for brake lights. Check the brown wire and make sure you have a proper ground (continuity). Check the other wire and see if there is ~12 volts there when on. It could still be just a bad socket. Will check. Thank you. And no worries then with the rear fog light. Cool. Thanks again.
  9. The rest of the lights in the front driver's side housing work... so it is not an issue with the plug, contacts for that bulb are clean... I have pretty much covered everything I can/know... Called the local Porsche service dept to make an appointment as they pretty much tried to walk me thru the same steps I had done. Just weird that it stopped working... I will have them check the issue with the rear fog light as well... I will pull out the light one more time and make sure there is continuity between the bottom contact and the contact in the side of the plug. Clean it again and call it a day... Maybe a cold one will help Cheers!
  10. Driver side front turn signal not working... bulb not coming on. Replaced bulb. Raised the contact a bit to make sure it was good...nothing... get the same fast flashing from the cluster and the rear light... replaced rear light as well... Turn on the hazards an three of the lights work but not the front driver's side. Is there a flasher for each corner??? Where are these located? I want to try swapping them to see if that is the culprit (just enough time to get to the dealer for a part if that is it)... Also... rear fog light (red) only driver's side turns on. New bulbs all around. Did the same on the contact point to ensure it was nice and tight... nothing...
  11. There is a lot we can do at the home garage, true. I try to do most of the stuff at home for my 964. Got most of the tools, workshop manuals, PET, mid-rise lift, etc. Do my own valve adjustments, oil change, pretty much most of the normal stuff. Getting inside the engine is another story... do not feel I have the skills to do that (I did a complete rebuild of my 944Turbo but I feel the skill set required for the flat six is different from the four bangers)... On the TTurbo... mine is under CPO... so I do not plan to do much. I also got the 60K service and brake flush as part of the deal... so I will have the dealer tackle that (I could pocket most of the money since what they did was to give me a check for the cost of the service, but it is the service right before it will go out of warranty so I rather have the dealer do it instead...) I do not have the workshop manuals for the car. I saw a rebuild done by PorscheDoc and that scare the @#$ out me.... so no plans in touching that... not sure how difficult a clutch job is in the TT... brakes are easy enough that I will do that myself, same goes for future oil changes and other minor tasks... might look into a diagnostic unit for troubleshooting/read codes.
  12. OK, here are a few links to show you the process I went thru when buying my car. It gives you an idea of what to look for and things to watch out. I also suggest, if you have not done so, to contribute to Renntech with a donation to get access to the technical service bulletins (TSB) and all other good information in those protected sections. Money well spent and you support the site. I do most of my posting in Rennlist so if it is ok with Renntech I will post links to the threads I already created there... Buying a 996TT Pre-Purchase List Pending Projects for the 996TT
  13. I am positive that you are aware that the actual maintenace cost will depend on the condition of the car. 1. Figure for a new set of original equipment tires every year if you use it on a daily basis and one alignment. - US$1,500.00 2. I will use the major service for budget (since it is the most expensive, it includes belts, spark plugs, etc.) and add a Brake flush - US$1,500.00 3. I like to do an oil change every 7500 miles. This will mean an additional US$235.84 That is a total of US$3,235.84. I would round it up to US$4-5K per year just as a budget exercise (better to budget on the high side) to include any odd expenses that could come up. Also, depending on the condition of the clutch if you need to replace it budget around US$3,200.00 for parts and labor (good time to go with a light flywheel setup). Also our cars tend to consume slave clutch cylinders, master cylinders, accumulators. So far mine have been covered under warranty so I do not have the cost of those... but something to keep in mind. Budget for a set of diverter valves - aprox 280 for both. Stock units are weak and tend to go with time. Best to replace with the billet units. Hope that helps! How is the scheduled maintenance setup? First is at 30k, then 60k? Exactly what I was looking for, thanks! I am heading home. I will update from there. Service is every 15K with major services at 30 and 60K. The 60K service covers belts, sparkplugs, etc... so a big one and thus the cost. Unless you want to tackle the service and save a few bucks... The cost I posted for the oil change is what I just paid at the dealer so it is pretty current... Best to buy a car with some level of warranty left and, if possible, with the Porsch extended warranty (CPO). The CPO does not cover everything the original warranty covers but it is a great peace of mind. This car likes to go thru tires... so I really doubt you will get 20K miles from a set... I also got the tire/wheel warranty for five years (road hazard). Best US$300.00 I have spent. Covers tire and rim damage. Considering what a tire or a wheel costs... it was worth it. In my case, I am running this car on a budget, so everything counts.
  14. I am positive that you are aware that the actual maintenace cost will depend on the condition of the car. 1. Figure for a new set of original equipment tires every year if you use it on a daily basis and one alignment. - US$1,500.00 2. I will use the major service for budget (since it is the most expensive, it includes belts, spark plugs, etc.) and add a Brake flush - US$1,500.00 3. I like to do an oil change every 7500 miles. This will mean an additional US$235.84 That is a total of US$3,235.84. I would round it up to US$4-5K per year just as a budget exercise (better to budget on the high side) to include any odd expenses that could come up. Also, depending on the condition of the clutch if you need to replace it budget around US$3,200.00 for parts and labor (good time to go with a light flywheel setup). Also our cars tend to consume slave clutch cylinders, master cylinders, accumulators. So far mine have been covered under warranty so I do not have the cost of those... but something to keep in mind. Budget for a set of diverter valves - aprox 280 for both. Stock units are weak and tend to go with time. Best to replace with the billet units. Hope that helps!
  15. I had a similar question and came across this post in Rennlist: First this car has amazing brakes but you can induce fade and brake fluid boiling. What I have done is this: First change your brake fluid to Castrol SRF, it is the best period. It is more expensive ie $60 per quart (that is all you need) vs $10 for the blue stuff, so expensive but not in the whole scheme of things. This really decreases the chance of fluid boiling and I do it before each event. Next, change your pads to Pagid Orange, front and rear. Read the posts on proper "brake pad bedding in" and follow it closely. these pads are tremendously better!!! Yes I leave them on all the time. They work so well on the street you would not know the difference. Yes they stop when they are cold, no they dont squeal (well sometimes but not enough to be changing back and forth, again IMHO). I also never go to the track with less than 50% of pad thickness and take an extra set with me. Also be prepare to "bleed the brake fluid at the track if you do boil. I usually get one of my friends to do this. There are plenty of knowledgable guys at the track that can help with pad changes and fluid. That type of skill can save a weekend event! Your stock rotors are fine just make sure that after every run you clean out the cross drilled holes as they will fill with brake dust, compressed air works best. The 'transfer" of material from pad to rotor is what is suppose to happen as the optimum braking happens intially by friction and then and best by adhesion between the layer of pad material on the rotor and pad. Remember I am giving you the easiest track/street setup that works for me. Lastly, and this may be over kill but again very cost effective is add GT3 CUP (not RS or plain GT3) front ducts. these are a heavy duty two piece thing that is rivited together (30% more air flow). For slightly more over kill the Porsche motorsports also have the GT2 rear ducts. For what you asked for that should do it!! For more track experience JP is really who I also rely on maybe he can correct what I said. I am going to Road Atlanta next month so I can tell you how that will work up there as well, my home track is usually Sebring. Good Luck, have fun! tom __________________ Tom Kerr '02 996TT X-50 SPEED YELLOW Cayenne S '04 _____________ I hope that helps! Cheers, Jaime (a.k.a. Wachuko)
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