liifesfun

Thanks Philip,

its the same seller I have ben looking at too (except glass version)

Where did you find the reviews?

Bruce

Hi All

I am looking to replace the soft top on 97/8 986. The plastic has cracked and is no longer translucent.

It makes sense to me to replace with a glass insert as well.

I am looking for recommendations on where to purchase and what brand to replace it with. Also what I need to watch out for eg what material brand, sound proofing and especially proper fit.

Whilst looking for a good deal , I am not looking for the cheapest as I would hate to have wind/water/noise issues. Also are any better than others to install.

So far I have had a look on ebay  http://www.ebay.com/itm/310573975855?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and Pelican parts.

Will need to ship Australia.

Regards

Bruce

Dear friends,

I just noticed that its nearly 2 years since the brake switch / cruise control cut out problem.

UPDATE - its still all OK, the $0 fix is still working.

Without trawling back through the threads, my cruise control kept dropping out and I finally worked out it was the brake switch causing the problem. I pulled out the switch, dismantled it ( yes you can pull them apart) and the contacts were burnt, so I filed them with a nail file. I commented on this forum that if I got 12 months service I'd be thrilled, well its now 2 years.

Bruce

UPDATE - $0 fix

Porsche centre (OPC) supplied part number 99661311302, they have indictaed that this is the updated/ sueprceded part. It is physically a little different, the new one it has 4 terminals as opposed to 3 but fits the connector OK (this probably doesnt matter electrically, I couldnt test at the time) BUT its about 5-10 mm longer, I couldnt get it to lock in and wonder if this is why, any one experience this? 97/98 2.5l tip.

Good news - I pulled apart the old switch and can answer my question previously. For those techos - The switch is electrically a changeover switch with 3 contacts (as opposed to terminals) in the normal position (meaning without the brake pedal pressed) the switch is closed for the cruise control circuit, which validates my previuos logic that for safety if the switch or circuit fails is most likely to go open circuit thus swiching of the cruise control. When the pedal is depressed the switch changes over and operates the brake lights. For reference, the switch is mounted in front not behind the brake pedal, so the switch releases when you press the pedal, the significance is if you test the switch whilst not mounted but plugged into the quick connect socket, the brake lights will come on when the switch is released (normal mode) and go off when you push the plunger.

As I had the switch apart I took a metal finger nail file and gently filed the contacts as they were pitted and sprayed with contact cleaner plus the connector, went back together perfectly.

Drove the car $100km today the cruise works without fault!

I'll post a photo sometime

Bruce

The brake light switch is equipped with a triple contact, if the brake pedal is pressed the contacts are closed. The body color of the switch is brown for European cars en located up and on the front of the brake pedal. Remove the heater duct for more room, turn the switch to the right approx. 90 degrees and pull out. To install lubricate the locking area with a small amount of grease, push and turn the switch 90 degrees to the left. It's sounds controversy to turn right to unlock and vise verso, but it is more easier.

Check as other said the "gutters" under the roof, beside blockages make sure they are not split as mine were

Bruce

Car is a 2000 986s

3.2

6 speed

I went to start the box this morning, turned the key, and nothing, tried again... NOTHING. Then the alarm started going off! :mad:

Placing my hand under the driver seat revealed 3" of water, and the alarm module was totally under water. I removed the seat, disconnected the module and shop vaced out the water in my car.

I then took the computer inside, opened it up, dried it out, and that's pretty much where I am right now.

The remotes don't work to lock or unlock the doors, or the trunk. Both front and rear trunk release in the car appear to be stuck closed.

A couple of questions for those who have been here before:

* When the alarm computer finished drying out, and I put it back in the car my understanding is the car may be in a 'failsafe' mode where it is dead until a Porsche dealer hooks it up to their scan tool and resets something? Can anyone tell me more about this? How much does it cost?

* I suppose (looking at the pictures) there is a good chance my alarm module is toast, is there a way to diagnose this before going to the dealer?

* Is it possible to purchase a used alarm module from ebay or a junkyard and have it reprogrammed, or is this something that the dealer must buy new?

Thanks for the help!

-Eric

Pictures to follow:

Theres an obvious answer usually under your nose if you dont have anything, and thats a wheel, I often slid a wheel under the car even as a back up to floor stands

I think the hockey pucks are more to ensure that their is a good solid foundation/connection between a jack stand and the lifting point. Never work on your car when it is only supported by a hydraulic jack. That means for most people jack stands. The stands I had did not mate up well with the Boxster so I used hockey pucks to mate the two.

Here is a link that explains in detail what I did. CLICK HERE

Good luck and let us know what your solution was.

Hi

If you follow this topic there are instructions for the ICV (non egas) which would be worth doing as its linked to the TCB, a pdf and lots of photos of ICV and TCB

If you the ICV out

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=13120&hl=

Bruce

'01S

just looking around, and would like to know what this is and what is it's purpose?

Thanks.

That was a good question, I was cleaning my throttle body a couple of weeks ago and was wondering the same thing. If you haven't cleaned your throttle body, it's a good idea to do so. Keeps the idle constant and the engine operating efficently.

Tom, can you post a pics or a quick set of DIY steps for doing the throttle body cleaning on the 986 correctly?

Thanks.

Andy

YEAH the power converter, great idea, I got sick of all those 12v cigarette lighter charges when all devices have a 120v/240v charger, now I can charge my laptop, camera, phone etc - highly recommended

bruce

I have done 3000+ miles road trip, my baby has gone from Washington to Cali & BACK.

Knowing that it is a very reliable car oh did I mention ? - I drove about 650,000 original miles on my 944(83).

These r what I carried:

1) My laptop(goes everywhere I go)

2) DVD Player to keep my G/F quiet(have a 7.2 indash player)

3) 1-burned music DVD (dual layer 8.4 GB- about 2000 songs, who needs an Ipod?)

4) 12V Power Converter(to charge anything!)

5) 12V tire inflator(a must)

6) Tire plug, patch kit( fix a flat will ruin your tire, don't ever use those)

7) 1 Quart of 0W- 40 Mobil 1 supersyn

8) Enjoying the SUN - PRICELESS !

Cruise control not working - try your brake switch

Note this switch controls other functions as well (such as tiptronic start inhibitor, RFM reminded me of this)

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=18271

Photos of the switch pulled apart the contacts are at the bottom centre the top contact is the copper piece across the top, the silver contact at the bottom you see is pitted (from electrical arcing)

UPDATE - $0 fix

Porsche centre (OPC) supplied part number 99661311302, they have indictaed that this is the updated/ sueprceded part. It is physically a little different, the new one it has 4 terminals as opposed to 3 but fits the connector OK (this probably doesnt matter electrically, I couldnt test at the time) BUT its about 5-10 mm longer, I couldnt get it to lock in and wonder if this is why, any one experience this? 97/98 2.5l tip.

Good news - I pulled apart the old switch and can answer my question previously. For those techos - The switch is electrically a changeover switch with 3 contacts (as opposed to terminals) in the normal position (meaning without the brake pedal pressed) the switch is closed for the cruise control circuit, which validates my previuos logic that for safety if the switch or circuit fails is most likely to go open circuit thus swiching of the cruise control. When the pedal is depressed the switch changes over and operates the brake lights. For reference, the switch is mounted in front not behind the brake pedal, so the switch releases when you press the pedal, the significance is if you test the switch whilst not mounted but plugged into the quick connect socket, the brake lights will come on when the switch is released (normal mode) and go off when you push the plunger.

As I had the switch apart I took a metal finger nail file and gently filed the contacts as they were pitted and sprayed with contact cleaner plus the connector, went back together perfectly.

Drove the car $100km today the cruise works without fault!

I'll post a photo sometime

Bruce

The brake light switch is equipped with a triple contact, if the brake pedal is pressed the contacts are closed. The body color of the switch is brown for European cars en located up and on the front of the brake pedal. Remove the heater duct for more room, turn the switch to the right approx. 90 degrees and pull out. To install lubricate the locking area with a small amount of grease, push and turn the switch 90 degrees to the left. It's sounds controversy to turn right to unlock and vise verso, but it is more easier.

send me an email reminder if you dont have a response and i will photograph mine for you

Bruce

Thanks guys for the quick reply. Mine had a hanger that went in the slots that you see inside the gas door. That is what I am trying to find.

Is your accelerator (gas pedal) all the way to the floor, I mentioned before is that my experience is that they wont shift in this condition but if you lift off a bit it will then shift?

Bruce

its strange after i fitted tip ecu went on road test and it changed up into fifth , but after approx 5 minutes stopped going into 5th gear again when into auto mode . however when put into tip mode will select 5th no problem . put it back to auto and as soon as it changes down to fourth when slowing down it will not go back into 5th. <_<

yours very puzzled

simon

Dont you love this site, 24 minutes for a response, I reckon you could get an answer and do the repair quicker than an "auto club" could get out and jump start a flat battery!

Hi all

My cruise cuts out intermittently and it (the fault) appears to be linked to the brake switch, as it works again if I hit the brake pedal and then pull back on the pedal with my toe hooked behind it, suggesting the contact in the brake switch is faulty.

I stuck my head in and expected to easily see the switch but it wasnt apparent, I did a search on this site and couldnt find anything.

Out of curiosity does anyone know if the switch has a single or dual contact and if it is make or break (sorry thats techo speak), logic would say its a break contact as a fault condition is likely to be open circuit and for safety it is best that the cruise is off rather than the it failing to switch off when you hit the brake pedal.

I was expecting this as 5 minute job and hope it is, if I have missed something obvious, I will graciously accept referrals to a good optometrist.

Bruce

Just a query on the description below in a Tiptronic in D (auto), the default is to start in 2nd gear, 1 st gear requires to be placed in manual. thanks for the electro mechanical description ( I learnt some more about my car)

wow all the way up to 7grand? that's not good

First of all, I would check your fluid level first,hopefully its pretty low.

dual clutch packs could be failing? NOPE u already said works fine with M mode.

-When the motor vehicle is stationary, in neutral, both clutch packs are fully disengaged. When the driver has selected D for drive , the transmission's first gear is selected on the first shaft, and the clutch prepares to engage. At the same time, the second gear is also selected, but the clutch pack for 2nd gear remains fully disengaged.

As it accelerates, the transmission's computer determines when the second gear (which is connected to the second clutch) should be fully utilized. Depending on the vehicle speed, and amount of power being requested by the driver (full throttle or part-throttle normal driving), the DSG then upshifts. During this sequence, the DSG disengages the first clutch while engaging the second clutch (all power from the engine is now going through the second shaft), thus completing the shift sequence. This sequence happens in 8 ms, and there is practically no power loss.

The actual shift timings are determined by the DSGs Electronic Control Unit, or ECU, which commands a hydro-mechanical unit, and the two units combined are called a "mechatronics" unit.

if tranny fluid level is OK then most likey it's the Tip transmission computer.

hi all

have a boxster 1997 2.7 tiptronic with a strange fault . the gearbox works fine in tiptronic mode but when left in auto will not change up into 5th gear ?? just sits there at 7000rpm and wont change up . car been checked on pst2 no faults stored in any systems

any help much appreciated

thanks simon

Is this a fault? I cant say for sure but having had a 911 tip and now a boxster tip, it sounds familar, I assume you are holding it the trottle to the floor, what happens if you lift of a bit? Is the engine running smoothly?

I have a feeling I have experienced this, in the 911 or the boxster and I put it down to a design feature, cant be sure though.

Sorry but living in Australia, I cant simulate this easily, the men with flashing lights (and a lack of sense of humour) might decide that they need my license more than me :-)

Very interested in the outcome on this one?

Bruce

Good call! wvicary

stay away from 7,000 RPM

Did they reset the kickdown point or adaption settings when the PST2 was hooked up? Thats the next step to take after checking the fluid level.

And try to stay away from 7,000 RPM..... not good.

Hung, Stefan

The bellow tube you can see in the attached photo (note the hose clamp on the bottom of the tube)

Bruce

If you remove the right rear wheel you still cannot see the lower AOS bellows. But you can see part of the plastic of the AOS unit and you can also see the bolts that hold the AOS in place. You should be able to fairly easily reach them with a socket.

To connect the bellows using the clamp pliers, you compress the lower clamp and put it around the lower bellows. From above you wiggle the AOS down into approximate correct position. Then go under the car through the wheel well and use your hand to put the lower bellows on the metal tube. You can verify that it is in place by using a little mirror and a light. Then release the pliers. The rest of the connections (the bolts and the other hoses) are relatively easy. The bolts can be put back from below and all of the rest of the connections can be done from above.

If you PM me your e-mail address I can send you some pictures. For some reason, my router crashes whenever I try to upload pictures to Renntech or any other pictures site.

boxster_aos_bellows_location.htm

Hung, Stefan

Sorry to hear your grief.

My experience is the same as Stefans , the two bolts can be reached from the top, from memory I used a mini socket set with a universal joint on a mini tool bar and manged to then screw them out with my fingers. Not sure if Americans use the same term , "universal joint", its a knuckle like joint you can get for socket sets.

The bellows on the Australian (USA model ??) model can be seen from underneath but its very narrow view and you need to look underneath from about the the corner of the rear bumper (rear of the car not level with the axle) and you can shine a torch through a narrow gap but you need to know what your looking at (you can see the bottom of the belows), I only discovered once I had fitted it, thus verifying how difficult it is too see. (I think you'll find its closer to the front of the car than you expect

If Stefans photos dont arrive let me know.

If you have skype you can try me, send me a private email ,I'll give you my contact details, happy to talk on the phone.

Happy Xmas and New Year to you both

Bruce

Bruce, Toolpants, JP, Stefan,

I decided to do AOS R&R myself and am stuck at step #2 (I managed to remove the J tube connecting the AOS to TB) :lol: I looked at detailed instruction from Mike Focke website where he recommends lifting and removing passenger rear tire to access the two 10mm bolts. The bolts and bellows should be visible when looking through the wheel well. I have a '99 tip and it must be different because I cannot see the AOS through the wheel well. It seems like I can get at the two bolts from above the car (through normal engine access bay) using a flex extension. Working from above the car, I can feel the bellows underneath the AOS (but cannot see it). I think I can remove it using a clamp hose pliers but I wonder how I would be able to connect the bellows on the new AOS. Also the hose (#4 in diagram above) is hidden under two bundles of wiring that I cannot move. Bruce said that it can be disconnected after removing the two bolts and pulling the AOS partly out. JP mentioned that this hose should be replaced. It seems pretty difficult to replace this hose. Any hints? Thanks in advanced for all your help. This DIY stuff is fun, frustrating, dirty, back breaking, but mostly rewarding. At the moment it is mostly frustrating :cursing:

thanks,

Hung

Hung

RE part open, yes thats right, it doesnt close all the way, from memory if it closes all the way there is no air at all getting into the motor as I believe the throttle body is closed at Idle and the ICV acts as a bypass around the throttle body , I believe in later models the throttle body modulates to perform the idle control, meaning the ICV is not there in latter models, Guys correct me if I am wrong on this latter point.

Re AOS - see my comment to Stefan also on idle.

Happy to answer any questions on AOS as its still reasonably fresh in my mind. (I did post it a few weeks ago)

Bruce

Stefan,

This thread gave me the confidence and knowledge to clean the TB and ICV this weekend. I think the most difficult part was separating the TB from the intermediate piece that connects the intake manifolds. Two of the four hex bolts were blind bolts and you had to be a contortionist to reach them while at the same time laying on the trunk deck and working underneath the folded up convertible top. TB wasn't that dirty compared to other people's pics but ICV had a lot of hard carbon build up on it. Toothpicks and Q-Tips were great for cleaning this part along with the CRC cleaner. You mentioned above that the ICV was partially open after many cleanings you finally managed to get it to close. Mine moved with relative ease even before the cleaning but only closed to a certain point (~ 3/4 way closed). Is it supposed to be closed all the way as your thread implied? I installed mine with this "opening" and it seams to be idling fine.

A few more notes. My TB wasn't all that dirty but after cleaning it made a world of difference on the throttle response. There is no longer the slight hesitation in 2nd gear. Overall it was very worthwhile project to do. My next project will be replacing the OAS. The J-tube that I removed to get to the TB had a good amount of oil in it (3-4 drops from each end). I haven't had a good look at the bellows but the OAS itself is caked in dirt. Dirt that is stuck to old oil. This DIY has given me the courage to do the OAS R&R which I hear is far more difficult. Thanks to you, Loren, Tool Pants (did I just repeat myself?), Todd, and others for making this less frustrating.

Now back to my 80K old but rejuvenated '99 2.5.

Hung

Stefan

In case your idle is not quite there.

Not sure of where you are at with your AOS in the last 12 months I have done ICV, MAF, Throttle body and got an improvement in idle all the way through the process but had a few periods where it would wonder up and down, 3 weeks ago I did the AOS and now its perfect, rock solid the tacho hardly moves from about 780 rpm.

Sorry didnt document the process any near like I did with the ICV , (your right I should have stated its a sideways push , not a downwards push on the valve) The AOS was a messy job and very hot, so the camera stayed inside.

Bruce

Success!

I filled the cavity with PB Blaster (awesome stuff) and let it sit for about a minute. Then I put a screwdriver in the slot and turned it. For the first time, the flap budged but barely. I did this about 50 times and it loosened up a ton. I did the same thing with WD40 just for good measure. I used compressed air to get rid of excess lubricant. I put the ICV back in the car and it ran much better and idled lower than before (previously 1100 or so, now at about 900 - still too high).

So I again took out the ICV. I noticed that the flap would only close as far as the point it had previously been stuck. I filled the cavity with WD40 but it was still difficult to force the flap all the way closed. I forced the flap closed, then open and repeated many times. I put it all back on the car and the car is idling excellently.

I took the car on a quick trip down the road and it seems to run smoother but that could easily be my imagination.

Note that the flap doesn't push in as I had incorrectly guessed from the photo in the PDF in this thread

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...3120&hl=icv

It actually pushes to the side.

$260 part replacement averted (for now).

Big thanks to Loren and Pk for their advice.

It isn't easy! good job Bruce. So what was the longest waiting time? LOL

Juniinc

All I am prepared to say is that the smoke was enough that I discovered, you cant fit much camping gear into a Boxster ....... LOL

Bruce

There seems to many references to AOS replacement and varying opinion on the degree of difficulty.

One thing I think can be said, its not an easy job, even with instructions and should be regarded as difficult but do-able and I can see its a 2-5 hour job (suspect a hoist makes it much easier)

A lot of threads lead to BF instructions which are rather simplistic but thats understandable given its hard to get pictures of all the parts and where they live and hence its a messy and awkward job. I think a key is to study the new AOS noting all the connections and size so that you have a picture in your mind as to where relatively you will find the clamps and bolts as you will work from the top and bottom of the car and at first not know where all the related parts are.

One thing I found differing from the instructions, was that the middle tube doesnt have to be disconnected prior to removing the AOS its easier to pull the AOS partly out and then remove this hose as there is some slack and its, of in a second (not sure if being a TIP and Australian delivered makes any difference, extra plumbing?, but I must have played for 1/2 hour trying to get it out insitu.)

I agree on cutting the bellows, the new AOS has them on it, in fact you may not need to cut the bellows, give it a good tug and see if it rips (ie its rotten) and then take the clamp off from the top after the AOS is removed.

I did the worm drive clamp replacement BUT would like to know if anyone has a good trick to refitting the belows, I found there is little room and as you are working blind with one hand virtually hidden from site its a matter of feeling your way around and pulling it over the joining pipe, even with the clamp sitting loosely over the bellows its was unbelievable, I ended undoing the clamp so it came out of the worm dive after removing it. Once I had the bellows (like pulling on a boot) on it, I "'threaded" the clamp around the belows and back into the worm drive (which isnt that easy either) . I have thought about it since and wondered if your blue tacked the clamp to the top of the belows against the AOS, maybe is the trick whilst you fit the rubber bellows tube. You could then slide the clamp down into position. One benefit of the worm clamp is that its easy to spot and hence locate the bellows to check that have seated right afterwards, you can see with a torch from underneath without jacking the car.

That all said, REALLY pleased its done, Car idles perfectly, doesnt smoke, whiffy smell is gone, discovered that was the oil leak source (bellows had a slight split I think) and starts like new. PS Loren, from 6 months ago, thats was the final part of the idle issue (post MAF replacement, ICV clean, throttle body clean), once again THANKS to this site, the car is running beautifully and I know a lot more about it which makes for more enjoyable driving

So now I have a car I proud to drive again, dont have to wait to everyone has gone to start it, LOL, saved a bundle of money (minus the physio bill and skun knuckles medical treatment), sorry dont have pictures that I wanted to take as my hands were that filthy it was 33c and too hot for gloves.

Hope this helps someone and interested if others have the tips for the clamp and belows fitting.

Here endeth my therapy.

Bruce

Why dont you try driving it???

sorry couldnt help that :D

When did this start happening, did it occur after some mod, are you running a standard air intake?

First time poster, like time lurker. I am having a MAS issue on my racecar. I seem to be burning out MAS each event. The error code is P0102-Factory Fault Code 115-Mass Air Flow Sensor Below Limit. When I hook up my Duramteric the voltage does not move with RPM as it should. Can you over volt a MAS and burn it up.

Then today, when troubleshooting that,I got a new error code P1119-Factory Fault Code 5-Heating of Oxygen Sensor ahead of TWC, bank 2. I am guessing the second code is an air leak in the intake?

Any help on the either issue would be appreciated.

Ethan

I would definitely clean the throttle body too.

Sometimes cleaning the ICV is temporary fix. Seems sometimes the solenoid just gets weak and then you have to replace the ICV.

Worth doing, Finally got round to cleaning the throttle body, seems to improved the idle at start up and general running, thanks Loren for encouraging me to do this.

Heres the before photo (after photo looks brand new)

I would definitely clean the throttle body too.

Sometimes cleaning the ICV is temporary fix. Seems sometimes the solenoid just gets weak and then you have to replace the ICV.

Worth doing, Finally got round to cleaning the throttle body, seems to improved the idle at start up and general running, thanks Loren for encouraging me to do this.

Heres the before photo (after photo looks brand new)