AP 997S

First off . . I have a very early build 997 (Launch Car #337). I'm the 2nd owner (have had it for well over 5 yrs) and currently have >26K miles; no IMS or RMS issues. I'm led to believe (no substantiating data) that Tiptronic equipped 997s (which mine is) are less prone to IMS/RMS because they're 'rev limited' via the DME and therefore 'over-stressed' less. If I was to worry about everything that could go wrong w/ my car I'd be neuritic I must be a little neuritic :D as I did install the LNE magnetic drain plug and filter system. I do my own oil service every 12 months as opposed to miles.

The IMS Guardian is designed for the 996. I suspect it would work on a 997 but the switch w/ it's yellow/red warning led would need to be integrated differently. So far Raby hasn't released such a kit.

Yes . . . There is pile of threads relating to this 'never dying' issue. A search w/ keywords 'IMS' or 'RMS' will yield countless hours of reading enjoyment or additional concern. Excellence magazine has ( written by Tony Callas) many articles regarding the Raby and LNE products. They are pretty good from an informational perspective but really don't have much in the way of statistical data or frequency of occurrence.

As someone already pointed out the Porsche boards/forums comprise of a very small sampling of 997 owners and they are more likely to post problems/issues and modifications as opposed to 'good news'. I worry (my phobia showing through) more about 'cell phone' or texting drivers. When I hear tire squeal from behind I almost unconsciously feel it's aimed at me and take defensive or offensive action. But don't call me paranoid :eek:.

Bottom Line . . . . Enjoy your 997 and drive it in any fashion that brings a smile to your face.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Didn't see if you resolved your problem or what year your car is so I thought I might add to the comments.

Do you get a 'Visit Workshop' message? If so, I believe your problem is the 'Front Control Module'.

Early MY 997 (ie 2005) had or have a static electricity issue w/ the 'Front Control'. Usually it appears when you wax the front bumper cover or light covers.

The module is located behind the cover so it requires removal to replace it. I think Porsche has a replacement Control Module that 'fixed' the problem.

GL . . .

I have a Dension 500 in my 2005 997S. I've had it now for close to 5 years; never a problem w/ it. More versatile then the Porsche Kit (IMHO) and is fully integrated w/ the PCM. I have a 15 gb IPOD attached to it full time. Looks like its easier to install if you keep your IPOD in the trunk (using the IPOD clips supplied w/ the Dension).

As always Loren you are the 'go to guy'.

Thanks!

I'm about to install a new steering wheel on my 997S and find the torque values for the 12 pt attachment bolt to be confusing to me. I searched various documents and forum threads and find a number of them state 37 ft lbs which seem like a lot to me.

Is 37 ft lbs correct?

Thanks for any help in advance.

I added a PSE on my 2005 'S' a few years back. The mufflers are pretty straightforward and relatively easy to do. I added X51 headers at the same time. The wiring part is the tough install depending on how you want to do it. A lot of folks don't bother w/ the switching electricals and simply leave the PSE in the 'loud state'. I chose to install the wiring and modified the switch panel to incorporate 'factory' PSE on/off switch. Prior to that 'upgrade' I had a simple toggle switch located in the ash tray to go from 'quiet' to 'loud'. Any good indy shop can do the muffler part. The electronics require a bit of expertise and time and labor.

Do some forum searches on all the Porsche forums under the keyword(s) . . . PSE, sport exhaust, etc. for more information.

The Durametic seems to be the tool of choice unless you have access to a PIWIS.

I've had mine for a few years. I periodically use it to scan fault codes and of course to clear the yearly maintentance required message.

Might be the PSE valve is broken and loose.

Does your PSE still function correctly (ie. quiet & loud)?

Yes when I switch PSE to quiet mode, the rattle goes away. Is the valve replaceable or is a new tail box required?

Thanks

I don't think the internal' valve can easily be replaced. You'd have to open up the muffler to do that. I suspect you'll need to replace the muffler and I'll bet Porsche wants a small fortune for it.

If you can't live w/ it you just might be better off replacing the mufflers (right & left) w/ some good (non-PSE) aftermarket setup.

GL . . .

Might be the PSE valve is broken and loose.

Does your PSE still function correctly (ie. quiet & loud)?

Also have the cable from the battery to the starter motor checked. I believe there was a Porsche campaign (ie. recall) to correct or replace this cable. Might be a 'high-resistance' or loose connection.

Do a forum search on this topic . . battery cable, starter cable, etc.

Way too high IMHO.

I found a used PSE and all it's wiring harness for my 2005 997S and installed it myself. If you're handy around cars/garages it's a pretty simple job. The muffler(s) install is very straightforward. The switch install, depending what method you choose, is 'difficult' just because it's tough working in the cabin and routing the wiring and such.

Check out some indy garages, search the various Porsche forums for info and of course try to get the best price from Porsche dealers/shops. You might look at the 'PSE' that has a wireless approach to the 'quiet/loud' vacuum solenoid. That little feature eliminates the cabin wiring. Here's the link: http://www.cargraphi...o,article,6351/. Unfortunately the USD is so weak that the price maybe higher than the dealer charges.

GL

ps. Congrats on you new 4S. You'll find it so much more 'refined' compared to your '86 Turbo. Might not be as exciting to drive but it's got a lot going for it.

Although an expensive solution you might look into the air lift suspension systems.

Here's the Cargraphic (Bilstein) offering.

http://www.cargraphic.de/index.php?/s,6,7,18,4796/&language=4&resolution=1024

http://www.cargraphi...ads/Airlift.pdf

In most cases newer model years always have more performance and reliability. Choosing between a turbo and a normally aspirated Porsche is an 'apples & oranges' comparison.

I personally think the 997 (compared to a 996) interior is so much more refined and 'up-scaled'. The 'subtle' exterior change(s) is also a winner.

To coin a phase from Shareka (sp) the hips on a C4S don't lie.

I'd go w/ the latest model year that meets your requirements, taste and of course budget.

Either way good luck in your decision.

Coming in/out at an angle (ie. 45 degrees) might help if you have room to do that.

Thanks for all the inputs.

I decided to change both plugs and coil packs.

Ordered them from Sunset Porsche. Went w/ the 'generic' Bosch plug (FGR5KQEO) rather than the Porsche branded version. I figured they were was the same w/ just a marking change.

If money isn't a problem I would replace them but only with OEM parts. The coils due fail and as you'll be in there just swap them out.

That was my sentiments as well. Beru Coil Packs run about $40 per so it's like 5/6 tanks of gas.

I'm going on a 700 mile road trip in October (Porsche Reunion at Laguna Seca) so I'm looking at stuff to make the trip 'uneventful' from that standpoint.

Save your money and get Radiators and

hoses for a southern California car.

Paul

'Global Warming' hasn't reached us yet so I'm good in that department.

Thanks Loren for the 'trouble-shooting' chart.

Like I said I don't have any misfires, hesitations, etc.

I just think it would be 'good practice' to replace them after nearly 7 years of usage.

I'm just about to change my spark plugs and was wondering if I should change the coil packs too?

I'm on original plugs and coil packs; my 997S is close to 7 years old (build date Aug. 2004) but I just have 23K miles.

I've seen them cracked from heat and age on other 'P' cars.

No misses or tell tale signs of bad plugs or coils but I think it would be good preventative maintenance to replace them all. I might get a bit better MPG and performance as well.

:thankyou: :thankyou: :thankyou:

I saw this comment on another Porsche site.

"The cable from starter to battery was overcrimped at factory on some cars. When the car has been running for a while it overheats and makes it hard to restart. Eventually the starter will go bad.

If you're under warranty it will be covered and in some cases goodwilled.

It's supposed to be an easy diagnosis by measuring voltage drop on either end."

I understand parts & labor to change this cable is quite high since the starter is in the motor compartment and the battery is in the trunk.

Just a quick note.

I've been told this wheel/tire will not fit if your have PCCB's. The front rotors measure 350 millimetres or 13.78" in diameter.

Same procedure as bleeding your brake system w/ the exception that you remove/replace your brake hoses. I would suggest you check for leaks when your finished (duh).

They look good and are probably more 'stress resistant' but in everything I've read they offer no improvement regarding braking performance.

Was that a typo . . . . should dealer read stealer?

The front Euro plate attached to my son's new M3 (when picked up at BMW Welt-Munich) was simply attached w/ 2-sided foam tape.

You might want to consider this method to avoid holes (if they aren't already there) in the front facia.

I did mine a few months ago. It's pretty simple and easy to do.

This thread has the procedure w/ images . . . . http://forums.rennli...-failure-2.html