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Turboflyer

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  • From
    Winchester, Ca, RS
  • Present cars
    2001 Porsche Boxster S 986
  • Future cars
    I think I own it already :(
  • Former cars
    66 VW Bug, 57 Ford Fairlane, 53 Cadi, 59 Nash Rambler, 72 Dodge Challenger, 95 Anniversary Miata,

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  1. Joining this late , but what is a clock spring? I have serviced my 986s twice , once at 60k and again at 120 k. Now getting the P0740 TC solenoid code 122k. So I though ok maybe I didn’t fill correctly. Easy fix. After Reaching temp , topped off , very little needed, ran through the gears. Which cannot be done with the brake depressed, applied brake, Put in park, removed fill plug. Was surprised having a positive pressure and fluid puked out momentarily. Don’t ever recall that scenario. Did find some very shiny tiny metal particles in the fluid will have to check for type of metal today. Hope you can help.
  2. I ran across this post. What timing. Hope some one is still on it. Been dealing with the 0740 torque converter lock up code. Since I am in Ca. It will not pass smog. Car runs great. It’s an O1 986 S. Have had it almost 20 years. I too love this car. I think I found the part number for the solenoid but not sure. 986 325 601 00. Getting up there in years so the getting at is getting tougher, but doable. Would appreciate any help given. I see from this post the part number I have was incorrect, but which one is it? ABCDEF or G?
  3. Will do. Might as well replace it since I have it and the old one is almost 4000 hours run time and 20 years old. Wish I had done that when I did all the other parts under the intake. Thanks and will post back what happens.
  4. That would surely mess things up. How do you think fuel could leak into the vent line. I suppose I could remove the wheel well liner , disconnect the vent line , fill , purge the line and see if she fires up. What do you think?
  5. Understand, so why does this not happen ever time then irrespective of fueling?
  6. Thanks. That is the line I have waiting to put in. I am just trying to make sense of when the problem occurs. It is only when gas is added. I do not think the vehicle can tell that Fuel has been added since the key is off at fueling. Further when I get home I always add fuel additive after shut down and the car starts fine. I tried just letting the car run since the engine is in the back. It never likes that. So what initiates the leak test? Again thanks for taking the time to help.
  7. I have poured through countless threads of code 95, canister shutoff valve. The problem I am having is only after fueling and it does not matter if it is 5 gallons or full. Car will not start without holding gas pedal to the floor and cranking about 5 seconds plus. Did the canister , car is an 01 986 S. I do have a purge valve if it goes into the large plastic box forward and up in the passenger fender well. Just seems very odd it does not do it every time I start. I can literally go through many starts until fueling time with no problem at all. I also purchase the line and valve that gown under the intake manifold but I am just shooting in the dark. Hope someone has experienced the same thing and is willing to help. Thanks
  8. I have heard that the oil can be sucked out instead of removing the cover plate. On a Tip it is a PITA. I have done it once that way. Is there a link to how its done successfully? Not a lot of room between the splash shield. I even bought of drilling and taping the bottom.
  9. Well I knew it would be a big job but it needs to be done. I want to replace all the coolant hoses on my 01 Boxster S Tip. You would think it would be as simple as order the hoses. When they arrive start the job. Not really. I can not get a consistent PN reference from any diagram showing the hoses. One source said just pull the hoses to get the number. Humm might be there might not. Besides I like to have everything I need before I start when at all possible. You all know its not like replacing the upper and lower on a chevy , right. But to pull all the hoses only find out, wrong part, back ordered, not available is not how I would like to stat a job. Is there a source with up to date part numbers with a corresponding up to date diagram? Just being very hopeful.
  10. Thanks, I did not think so. It was posted somewhere. Then again it wouldn't be first time I had to say you have to be kidding me . Maybe we could come up with a modified trans cooler with some nice AN fittings to facilitate the flush. Will have to find a beat up old one and see what makes it tick.
  11. Can you tell me what the program does that drains the converter? I did the service on both. last time removing the side cover for the differential. Not sure what I could have gotten to go down to the bottom of the diff to suck the oil out? I thought about drilling and tapping a drain plug. But since that part only comes with the trans i chickened out. Not sure what stresses it get and hoe even a small hole in the bottom might effect it.
  12. This was at about 110K. Chevron and textron before oil change and some at radom. I also use lucas oil treatment religiously.
  13. Thanks. I checked those for attachment. Would be nice if there was something like in the old manuals that gave you data on how to test one. But I guess if the program says its good it has to be right. With a smile on my face could you please find an easier place for an old guy to find the control module? ?
  14. Can not get a confirmation on the programing, but for now is there someone who knows where the control module is hidden. Can not find it. Don't drive much at night but it bugs me.
  15. So before I start pulling things and looking for a broken or loose connector. My durametric said the calibration needed to be done. Is that a bogus bit of info? Also I looked in the front trunk inside behind the covers and did not see a control module.
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