Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Larry Nakamura

Members
  • Posts

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • From
    San Jose, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S<br>1988 Pontiac Fiero GT (3.4L)
  • Former cars
    1988 Pontiac Fiero GT

Recent Profile Visitors

544 profile views

Larry Nakamura's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. I had the transmission case replaced on my 2001S for another reason then cracking, and it was approx $850 at the dealer.
  2. OK, So I fixed the window. I went and got a new regulator and motor from the dealer ($500). I wasn't sure if I would need them but I wanted to have them when I opened the door up. From the great instructions from Tygre, I removed the motor and regulator. I seperated the motor and reconnected it to the connector and tried it. It worked just fine. Also, The regulator looked OK too. So I put it back together and mounted it back in the door and tried it to make sure it still worked. Lo and Behold, it worked. So I put everything back together and reset the windows and all is well. So I guessing it had a glitch when the window rolled down 1/3 of the way and defaulted to the full down position when I tried to roll it up. So in effect all I needed to do is give it a kick (so to speak). Anyway I took the parts back and the problem solved with a few hours of labor. At least I'll know what to do next time there is a door window problem. Again thanks for your help Loren.
  3. The window is stuck in the full down position so it doesn't react to the door handle at all right now. Does anyone have pics of replacing the window regulator? Where to purchase one, at the dealer? Mr Tool Pants or Loren, Can I get an assist in doing the install? I've never taken apart oe of the Bpxster doors yet. I now live close to San Thomas and El Camino in Santa Clara.
  4. I cannot get the passenger window to roll up from the full down possition to even try to retrain/reset the window. Also, When I tried to roll the window up after it had rolled down 1/3 of the way, the up button on the window switch ended up rolling the it down the rest of the way instead of rolling it in the up direction. This is whay I not suspecting the motor, but something electrical. I did check all the fuses, even though the front windows are on the same fuse and since the driver's side works, would indicate that's not the problem.
  5. I have a 2001S and had an oil leak that turned out to be the shift linkage shaft that goes into the transmission bell housing. Not good as there is no rebuild kit for this and the whole transmission bell housing needed to be replaced. $850 in parts (Porsche covered) and 9 hrs of labor (dealer covered some), and I payed $820. I was hot happy as this is something that should never leak (IMO). The leak was 1-2 drops of oil on the garage floor after I had driven the car some distance. I'm not sure if it leaked when just driven a short distance. The oil looked to drip through the hole in the cover plate below the transmission. You could see it by kneeling down and looking up from the drip on the floor. Hope your leak is not this one as it is way beyound the RMS. RMS --- $1,200 Trans Bell Shatf Seal --- $2,300 Cam Cover --- $850 They said they had just fixed this on another boxster too. Hope this does not turn out to be a common boxster problem. By the way I do not autoX and have only tracked the car twice, so I don't abuse the car. Also, You can live with small oil leaks, unless you plan on selling the car soon or something like that. Keep in mind that just because you only see a couple of drips on the garage floor, it may be leaking more when driven out on the road. Just my 2 cents.
  6. OK, I had a chance to try interchanging the window switches on the center consol and no go. The switch is not the problem. I also don't know if my problem has anything to do with the window stops. Remember my window was up all the way and when I opened the door, it should have rolled down alittle, but rolled down approx 1/3 of the way. When I started up the car and tried to rolll it up, it rolled down the rest of the way. So I don't think it is the window motor, but maybe the regulator? Anyone have the info for doing that fix? By the way I can't see any pics on the old threads, only red Xs.
  7. I have an 2001S and the other day I opened the passenger door. The window rolled down 1/2 way (HUH???). So I got in and started the car and tried to roll the window up, but instead it rolled all the way down and won't roll up. I tried to disconnect the battery to see if I just needed to reset the window, but no dice. Anyone have some suggestions or had this happen? The driver's side window is functioning correctly. Also, I tried unlatching the soft top to see if it would roll up when I latched it, but also no luck. Again the driver's side window worked OK. Are there different fuses for each window or are they on the same fuse?
  8. OK, I fixed the problem. The Bowden cable had slipped out of the conncetion at the motor/actuator. Here are the instructions to get to the Bowden emergency cable..... 1: Jack the driver's rear tire up and remove. Take care not to chip the brake caliper paint (use the tire removal bar). 2: Remove the rear part of the wheel well. Note; There are 3 hidden bolts you need to remove in order to get the part of the wheel well out. They are hidden under the bumper skin. Pull the bumper back and you can get to them. They are 10mm nuts. Take care not to pull the bumper skin back too much (it is pretty flexible). 3: There are 2 screws under the bumper skin you need to remove. They are Torx head (T25). 4: Remove piece of wheel well and look back towards the inside of the bumper skin and you will see the pull cable. Give it a pull and the trunk should open. Now that the trunk is open you can investigate further as to what the problem is. Mine was the cable had slipped out of the connector. I had to take apart the mounting hardware for the spolier hardware as the motor/actuator for the latch is under this. There are a couple of screws that are no easy to get to or put back in. The nuts are 8mm and the screws are Torx heads (T25). I took out the actuator and reseated the cable. I put the actuator and mounting hardware back together and tested it to make sure it was working. All looks OK. You will also need to pull the carpet out of the trunk to make it easier to do the work without trying to hold it back. Also, I left the cable hanging out between the heat shield and the bottom of the insdie of the bumper skin. It is still hidden, but I can get to it if this happens again (Rear Trunk Bowden Emergency Cable Mod!). Oh, Jeff, I still have nightmares from jumping up and down on your front hood even if it was wrecked. One is just not supposed to do that to a Porsche. Anyway, 1st problem I had with the 2001S and it wasn't due to broken parts.
  9. OK, So I see it on your photo. The question is how do I get to it? What exactly do I have to take apart to get to it? I took a look under the car and I see the heat shield that is above the muffler that blocks you from getting to it. Can you get to it from the wheel well? The only thing I have left is to try and get to the emergency cable and give it a pull. Until I get the trunk open I won't be able to tell what the problem is. You want to stop by and assist in seeing if I can get to the cable? Maybe this weekend? I live at San Tomas and El Camino now. 408-244-1589. Let me know. By the way, The manual doesn't give any help here that I can find.
  10. Yes, It is the same with the key switch and the door sill switch. I wasn't aware that there was a cable for the rear trunk like they have for the front. I will check in my manuals to see if I can find where it is located. Can you direct me to where it is located? (Sorry for posting in the 987 board, I didn't see that you seperated them).
  11. I am having a problem where the rear trunk lid won't open. I had opened the trunk just a minute earlier and when I tried to open it again, it just wouldn't pop open. I can hear the locking mechanism pull back and forth, but it won't open. I tried to push down and even tried prying alittle whith a screw driver to get it open, but no luck. All fuses are OK, and I wouldn't think it was the fuse as I can hear the locking mechanism try to open. I have a 2001 S. All other car functions are working fine, front trunk, convertible top, windows, etc. What do you think, any suggestions? If you need to get into the trunk to get to the locking mechanism, how would you do that? Is it even possible or would something like removing a fender be necessary?
  12. Thanks Jeff, I hope I never see that picture again. It's back to like new now, so no worries.
  13. Correction, The 3M Window-Weld in the tube is not viscus enough to make a good bead. It flattened out too much and did not work well. I tried to lift up on the window and it lifted up. So I went and got the 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer (3/8 inch diameter0 and it worked great. The tube stuff is for fixing a leak in a window and is why it is a liquid. The ribbon cost $12 and comes in a 15 foot length (more then enough).
  14. This is how to replace a broken rear window for your hardtop. I broke mine when it was hanging from the hoist in my garage. I accidently had a small piece of 2X4 fall about a foot onto my hardtop window and shattered it to pieces. I was very surprised how easy it was to break. Approx 1/2 of it immediately fell out of the window. I knocked the rest out so it wouldn't fall on the top of my car. All that was left was the edge that was glued to the top with about 1/4 inch of shattered glass. You an imagine I was pretty sick when it happened as I knew I just spent a chunk of money to get it fixed. I showed toolpants so he could take a picture of it hanging in my garage with the broken window. I didn't take any pictures of the process as it's just as described in the manual. The glass was $568 + tax from the dealer. I had a 10% off parts coupon so total cost was $553. I asked the dealer (A&B in San Jose) how much it would be for them to do the work and they said they usually send it out to a window place to have the work done, but I'm guessing it would be at least $500+ in labor. I decided to do the work myself as I have the manuals (15 binders which cost $400). First you have to pop off the inside side trim as you need to get to the connectors for the heating element and pull down the rear of the headliner. Pull the trim piece back alittle so you can see where the tabs are located. I used a long screw driver to pop them out. There are 6 on each side. Be careful not to break them, but they do just pop out. You also need to take out the piece that covers the locking arm. The rear of the headliner is just held in place by a few little lips. This helps to get it out of the way so you don't tear it while doing the work or get glue on it. Next, using a utility knife cut the glue that is holding the remainder of the trim/glass. There are rivits under the glue that you need to be careful not to damage. I could feel where they were as I was cutting and would cut the glue over the top of them. This was the hard part of the job and was a ***** to do. It took a few hours and several blades to do all the cutting along with a few cuts on my hands from the shattered glass that was left. Do this with a tarp under the top as there will be alot of small glass bits flying everywhere. I cut as much of the old glue off as I could to make sure the new windshield would sit down in the opening. I was very glad when I had this all done, as I said this was a *****. I bought a tube of 3M Windo-Weld Resealant from Kreagan's for $10. I cleaned the area that would be glued on the new windshield with rubbing alcohol and the area on the hardtop. Using a caulking gun, put a good bead of glue on the perimeter of the hardtop. Set the new windshield down in place. I did a few trials of this without the glue to make sure I knew how the new windshield should fix. Note; The new windshield comes "ready to install". In other words it has the trim and weather stripping already on it. You don't reuse the old trim/weatherstripping which was nice. Anything to make the job easier. Make sure the weatherstripping is seated correctly. You don't want any possible water leakage. I placed some weights on top of the windshield to hold it down while the glue was drying. Also it's a good idea to put a couple strips of tape to make sure the windshield doesn't move while the glue is drying (as shown in the manual). I let the glue dry for 2 days just to make sure. Connect up the heater element connectors. There is one on each side of the windshield. One goes to the connector that you plug in when putting the hardtop on the car. The other goes to a screw in the hardtop (This is the ground side). You will see how it connects once you pull off the 2 inside / side trim pieces. Put the rear of the headliner back in place and pop on the inside / side trim pieces. Clean all the hand/finger prints from the top of the hardtop you make when doing all the work and your done. The moral of this is. do not stupidly break your back window, or it could cost you more then the cost of the hardtop to get it fixed. The people at the dealer said they have seem where an owner broke the windshield by dropping the top too. I would say the $400 cost for the manuals paid for themselves with this job. This is for a 2001S Boxster hardtop.
  15. I was thinking more of feeling the mushiness of having a flat rather then the car tilting. The incident just made me start to think of a solution to having a flat and thus the initial question. An answer could be to just use remote sensors with normal tires. Anyway, I have a new tire on the car now and will need to get road hazard next set of tires. Oh, by the way, I do check the tires all the time. Again, happy I had a real spare tire to hobble home on.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.