Larry Nakamura

I had the transmission case replaced on my 2001S for another

reason then cracking, and it was approx $850 at the dealer.

OK, So I fixed the window. I went and got a new regulator

and motor from the dealer ($500). I wasn't sure if I would

need them but I wanted to have them when I opened the

door up. From the great instructions from Tygre, I removed

the motor and regulator. I seperated the motor and reconnected

it to the connector and tried it. It worked just fine. Also, The

regulator looked OK too. So I put it back together and mounted

it back in the door and tried it to make sure it still worked. Lo

and Behold, it worked. So I put everything back together and

reset the windows and all is well. So I guessing it had a glitch

when the window rolled down 1/3 of the way and defaulted

to the full down position when I tried to roll it up. So in effect

all I needed to do is give it a kick (so to speak). Anyway I

took the parts back and the problem solved with a few hours

of labor. At least I'll know what to do next time there is a

door window problem. Again thanks for your help Loren.

The window is stuck in the full down position so it

doesn't react to the door handle at all right now.

Does anyone have pics of replacing the window

regulator? Where to purchase one, at the dealer?

Mr Tool Pants or Loren, Can I get an assist in

doing the install? I've never taken apart oe of the

Bpxster doors yet. I now live close to San Thomas

and El Camino in Santa Clara.

I cannot get the passenger window to roll up from

the full down possition to even try to retrain/reset the

window. Also, When I tried to roll the window up after

it had rolled down 1/3 of the way, the up button on

the window switch ended up rolling the it down the rest

of the way instead of rolling it in the up direction. This

is whay I not suspecting the motor, but something

electrical. I did check all the fuses, even though the

front windows are on the same fuse and since the

driver's side works, would indicate that's not the

problem.

I have a 2001S and had an oil leak that turned out to be

the shift linkage shaft that goes into the transmission bell

housing. Not good as there is no rebuild kit for this and

the whole transmission bell housing needed to be replaced.

$850 in parts (Porsche covered) and 9 hrs of labor (dealer

covered some), and I payed $820. I was hot happy as

this is something that should never leak (IMO).

The leak was 1-2 drops of oil on the garage floor after

I had driven the car some distance. I'm not sure if it leaked

when just driven a short distance. The oil looked to drip

through the hole in the cover plate below the transmission.

You could see it by kneeling down and looking up from

the drip on the floor.

Hope your leak is not this one as it is way beyound the RMS.

RMS --- $1,200

Trans Bell Shatf Seal --- $2,300

Cam Cover --- $850

They said they had just fixed this on another boxster too. Hope

this does not turn out to be a common boxster problem. By the

way I do not autoX and have only tracked the car twice, so I

don't abuse the car.

Also, You can live with small oil leaks, unless you plan on selling

the car soon or something like that. Keep in mind that just because

you only see a couple of drips on the garage floor, it may be

leaking more when driven out on the road. Just my 2 cents.

OK, I had a chance to try interchanging the window

switches on the center consol and no go. The switch is not

the problem. I also don't know if my problem has anything

to do with the window stops. Remember my window was up

all the way and when I opened the door, it should have rolled down

alittle, but rolled down approx 1/3 of the way. When I

started up the car and tried to rolll it up, it rolled down the

rest of the way. So I don't think it is the window motor, but

maybe the regulator? Anyone have the info for doing that

fix? By the way I can't see any pics on the old threads, only

red Xs.

I have an 2001S and the other day I opened the passenger door. The

window rolled down 1/2 way (HUH???). So I got in and started the car and

tried to roll the window up, but instead it rolled all the way down and won't

roll up. I tried to disconnect the battery to see if I just needed to reset the

window, but no dice. Anyone have some suggestions or had this happen?

The driver's side window is functioning correctly. Also, I tried unlatching

the soft top to see if it would roll up when I latched it, but also no luck.

Again the driver's side window worked OK. Are there different fuses for

each window or are they on the same fuse?

OK, I fixed the problem. The Bowden cable had slipped out

of the conncetion at the motor/actuator. Here are the instructions

to get to the Bowden emergency cable.....

1: Jack the driver's rear tire up and remove. Take care not to

chip the brake caliper paint (use the tire removal bar).

2: Remove the rear part of the wheel well. Note; There are

3 hidden bolts you need to remove in order to get the part

of the wheel well out. They are hidden under the bumper

skin. Pull the bumper back and you can get to them. They

are 10mm nuts. Take care not to pull the bumper skin back

too much (it is pretty flexible).

3: There are 2 screws under the bumper skin you need to remove.

They are Torx head (T25).

4: Remove piece of wheel well and look back towards the inside of

the bumper skin and you will see the pull cable.

Give it a pull and the trunk should open.

Now that the trunk is open you can investigate further as to what

the problem is. Mine was the cable had slipped out of the connector.

I had to take apart the mounting hardware for the spolier hardware

as the motor/actuator for the latch is under this. There are a couple of

screws that are no easy to get to or put back in. The nuts are 8mm

and the screws are Torx heads (T25). I took out the actuator and reseated

the cable. I put the actuator and mounting hardware back together and

tested it to make sure it was working. All looks OK.

You will also need to pull the carpet out of the trunk to make it easier

to do the work without trying to hold it back.

Also, I left the cable hanging out between the heat shield and the bottom

of the insdie of the bumper skin. It is still hidden, but I can get to it if this

happens again (Rear Trunk Bowden Emergency Cable Mod!).

Oh, Jeff, I still have nightmares from jumping up and down on your front

hood even if it was wrecked. One is just not supposed to do that to a Porsche.

Anyway, 1st problem I had with the 2001S and it wasn't due to broken parts.

OK, So I see it on your photo. The question is how do I get to it?

What exactly do I have to take apart to get to it? I took a look under

the car and I see the heat shield that is above the muffler that blocks

you from getting to it. Can you get to it from the wheel well? The only

thing I have left is to try and get to the emergency cable and give it

a pull. Until I get the trunk open I won't be able to tell what the problem

is.

You want to stop by and assist in seeing if I can get to the cable? Maybe

this weekend? I live at San Tomas and El Camino now. 408-244-1589. Let

me know. By the way, The manual doesn't give any help here that I can

find.

Yes, It is the same with the key switch and the door sill switch.

I wasn't aware that there was a cable for the rear trunk like they

have for the front. I will check in my manuals to see if I can find

where it is located. Can you direct me to where it is located?

(Sorry for posting in the 987 board, I didn't see that you seperated them).

I am having a problem where the rear trunk lid won't open.

I had opened the trunk just a minute earlier and when I tried

to open it again, it just wouldn't pop open. I can hear the

locking mechanism pull back and forth, but it won't open. I

tried to push down and even tried prying alittle whith a screw

driver to get it open, but no luck. All fuses are OK, and I

wouldn't think it was the fuse as I can hear the locking

mechanism try to open. I have a 2001 S. All other car

functions are working fine, front trunk, convertible top,

windows, etc. What do you think, any suggestions?

If you need to get into the trunk to get to the locking

mechanism, how would you do that? Is it even possible

or would something like removing a fender be necessary?

Thanks Jeff, I hope I never see that picture again. It's back to like new

now, so no worries.

Correction, The 3M Window-Weld in the tube is not viscus enough to make a

good bead. It flattened out too much and did not work well. I tried to lift up on

the window and it lifted up. So I went and got the 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer

(3/8 inch diameter0 and it worked great. The tube stuff is for fixing a leak in a

window and is why it is a liquid. The ribbon cost $12 and comes in a 15 foot

length (more then enough).

This is how to replace a broken rear window for your hardtop. I broke mine when

it was hanging from the hoist in my garage. I accidently had a small piece of 2X4 fall

about a foot onto my hardtop window and shattered it to pieces. I was very surprised

how easy it was to break. Approx 1/2 of it immediately fell out of the window. I knocked

the rest out so it wouldn't fall on the top of my car. All that was left was the edge that

was glued to the top with about 1/4 inch of shattered glass. You an imagine I was pretty

sick when it happened as I knew I just spent a chunk of money to get it fixed.

I showed toolpants so he could take a picture of it hanging in my garage with the

broken window. I didn't take any pictures of the process as it's just as described in

the manual. The glass was $568 + tax from the dealer. I had a 10% off parts coupon

so total cost was $553. I asked the dealer (A&B in San Jose) how much it would be

for them to do the work and they said they usually send it out to a window place to

have the work done, but I'm guessing it would be at least $500+ in labor.

I decided to do the work myself as I have the manuals (15 binders which cost $400).

First you have to pop off the inside side trim as you need to get to the connectors for

the heating element and pull down the rear of the headliner. Pull the trim piece back

alittle so you can see where the tabs are located. I used a long screw driver to pop

them out. There are 6 on each side. Be careful not to break them, but they do just

pop out. You also need to take out the piece that covers the locking arm. The rear of

the headliner is just held in place by a few little lips. This helps to get it out of the way

so you don't tear it while doing the work or get glue on it.

Next, using a utility knife cut the glue that is holding the remainder of the trim/glass.

There are rivits under the glue that you need to be careful not to damage. I could

feel where they were as I was cutting and would cut the glue over the top of them.

This was the hard part of the job and was a ***** to do. It took a few hours and several

blades to do all the cutting along with a few cuts on my hands from the shattered

glass that was left. Do this with a tarp under the top as there will be alot of small

glass bits flying everywhere. I cut as much of the old glue off as I could to make sure

the new windshield would sit down in the opening. I was very glad when I had this all

done, as I said this was a *****.

I bought a tube of 3M Windo-Weld Resealant from Kreagan's for $10. I cleaned the

area that would be glued on the new windshield with rubbing alcohol and the area

on the hardtop. Using a caulking gun, put a good bead of glue on the perimeter

of the hardtop. Set the new windshield down in place. I did a few trials of this without

the glue to make sure I knew how the new windshield should fix. Note; The new

windshield comes "ready to install". In other words it has the trim and weather

stripping already on it. You don't reuse the old trim/weatherstripping which was nice.

Anything to make the job easier. Make sure the weatherstripping is seated correctly.

You don't want any possible water leakage. I placed some weights on top of the

windshield to hold it down while the glue was drying. Also it's a good idea to put a

couple strips of tape to make sure the windshield doesn't move while the glue is

drying (as shown in the manual). I let the glue dry for 2 days just to make sure.

Connect up the heater element connectors. There is one on each side of the windshield.

One goes to the connector that you plug in when putting the hardtop on the car. The

other goes to a screw in the hardtop (This is the ground side). You will see how it connects

once you pull off the 2 inside / side trim pieces. Put the rear of the headliner back in

place and pop on the inside / side trim pieces. Clean all the hand/finger prints from the

top of the hardtop you make when doing all the work and your done.

The moral of this is. do not stupidly break your back window, or it could cost you more

then the cost of the hardtop to get it fixed. The people at the dealer said they have seem

where an owner broke the windshield by dropping the top too.

I would say the $400 cost for the manuals paid for themselves with this job. This is for

a 2001S Boxster hardtop.

I was thinking more of feeling the mushiness of having a flat rather then the car tilting. The incident just made me start to think of a solution to having a flat and thus the initial question.

An answer could be to just use remote sensors with normal tires. Anyway, I have a new tire on the car now and will need to get road hazard next set of tires. Oh, by the way, I do check the tires all the time. Again, happy I had a real spare tire to hobble home on.

The next time you drive by and see me out, please stop. I have something I will need to fix that I want to show you. It will probably be a first and may need some help for a tech.

Has anyone put run flat tires on their Boxster?

If so, did you add remote air pressure gauges too?

Just curious as I had a flat on one of my rear tires

recently and couldn't feel it. I was driving on surface

streets at the time (30mph or less). A guy next to me

at a light told me I had a flat. Glad I wasn't on the

freeway. Anyway, I must have driven on it a few

blocks like that cause I had some side wall damage

and will need to replace the tire. (Glad I have a 01S

with a real spare tire). Anyway, If I had known in

time, I could have stopped before I damaged the

tire.

I have 18 iinch wheels and checked Tire Rack, but

none were listed for our size.

Did you have a flat tire on the passenger rear

after the accident? Your pictures don't show that

tire.

I check my tires regularly and went out the

other day for a drive. I got a flat on my passenger

rear tire and couldn't feel it. I was on surface

streets (30mph or less) and was told by a car

next to me at a stop light, that I had a flat. I

was glad I wasn't on the freeway. Oh, I also

have 18 inch tires.

Have you tried to drive by the spot where

it happened, to see if there is anything that

might explain the acident?

I put one on my 01S. I figured that sooner or later

I would hit something and do more damage then it

cost to buy the boomerange. Sure enough, 2 weeks

after I put it on I drove up a steep driveway and

grinded the bar pretty good before I could stop.

You can always take it off and clean up the scratches

if you need/want. You cannot see I have it unless

you look under the front of the car. I also use a

car bra that hides it some too.

One note of caution, I understand if you don't mount

it right, you could catch it on something and rip the

front nose cone. I think you just need to make sure

you keep this in mind when you are positioning it

for mounting. Make sure it's centered and back as

far as possible, without blocking any air flow.

It also add a few pounds to the front of the car.

That's the pluses and minuses to consider.

I wouldn't think a pin extractor tool is anything special.

I would try looking at Radio Shack/Fry's/Electronics Surplus

store. If you don't want to do the pin, you can splice a line

to it or cut the existing wire and solder the new lead to it.

I'm an electronic engineer and have to do technician work

all the time. Let us know what you find.

I need an oil change and brake bleed. What do you mean you told him

no for a barbecue??? Sounds great to me. More people will show if there is

food.