rplus12

I just wanted to share my experience with changing out the purge valve that connects to the throttle body. I had been hearing intermittent whistling at light throttle settings and eventually found that it was coming from the fuel filler area. I did some research on here and figured it must be the valve at the canister or the one that leads into the throttle body. I used the Durametric tool to activate both and the canister valve sounded like it was working ok but the rear purge valve was very faint...even using a mechanic stethoscope. I figured that must be the problem and that it wasn't so broken to throw a code but not working enough to do what it is supposed to. I looked on Pelican Parts for a replacement (996 110 129 53) but wasn't really happy with the $250 price tag. I took my valve out and saw that it had a Bosch 280 142 323 part number so I figured I could source the valve someplace. That didn't get me anywhere. So I started searching for Bosch valves with 280 142 3xx numbers and found that 280 142 308 looked like it had the same electrical connection and could be used on a large variety of Audi and VW vehicles and was only $42. The only difference I could see was a different type of input connection when compared to the Porsche part. So, I figured it could work by cutting the connecting tube on the Porsche part and reusing the Porsche unique connector on the one end. Once I received the new valve, I plugged it in and confirmed it was the correct connector. I then used Durametric to check for codes and then checked activation. No codes and the valve operation could be clearly heard. So, I took some clamps and hoses from a motorcycle project and put things together using the new valve and Porsche connector. I installed it, checked for codes, and took it for a spin. So far, I haven't heard any whistling and no codes. I will provide an update if the whistle comes back but I am pretty happy about saving a couple $100. I attached some pictures of the Porsche valve, the new valve, and then the final assembly.

Just wanted to share a resolution/experience I just had with my 2000 996. A few months ago, I started hearing a rhythmic ticking noise and it was pretty obvious that it was coming from the driver side. About the same time, I had the car in to have the LN IMS bearing mod done and the mechanic wasn't quite sure what it was and thought it might be a lifter. With that in mind, I gave some Swepco oil additive a try without success. Actually, the ticking noise became more consistent as time went by. In my research for lifter issue, I saw recommendations to first try changing the exhaust gaskets and set out to do that as it seemed pretty simple. However, I read a lot about stuck/broken bolts so I got the car lifted and soaked the bolts with PB Blaster for a few days prior to when I was going to start. A day or so before, I checked each bolt to see if I could move them and they all seemed to move. Unfortunately, the movement on the most aft driver side manifold bolt just seemed loose and sheared off. It really did feel like it was loose initially but sure enough, it snapped. The rest of the bolts came out ok and I set out to extract the stuck bolt. I tried more PB Blaster, a small butane torch, a nice stud extractor from JEGS. I even got a dremel up in there and cut a slot in the top of the bolt for a screwdriver, but no luck. What made it really difficult is that the thermostat housing is directly below the bolt so it was hard to try and get a straight shot at it. Anyway, I buttoned it back up (minus one bolt) and took it to my mechanic. He spent a few hours on it and ended up drilling it out and put in some thread repair coils. Since the thermostat housing was off, I had him change the thermostat as well. He mentioned that the ticking was still there so it wasn't an exhaust gasket issue. He still thought it might be a lifter. When I got the car in the garage, I could still hear the ticking but if I gave it a little gas at idle, I heard a little bit of a squeak as well. I was thinking maybe I did something to the exhaust hangers or maybe an engine mount. After some googling, I guess folks had found that squeaking can be caused by loose spark plugs. I went ahead and pulled the coils (first time doing that...not bad, but not trivial...) and sure enough, the middle spark plug on the driver side was loose. I took a closer look at coil tube and you could see where exhaust had blown by. I wiped it off and it didn't look there was any damage so I tightened the spark plugs and re-installed. Thankfully, the squeaking was gone and as a bonus, so was the ticking. Glad to have the car back on the road and hope this experience will help someone in the future.

Here is another update... Pelican sent me another fuel pump which I installed the other day. I activated the pump via the Durametric software and could hear the pump come on and saw ~7A for the current draw which all seemed to make sense to me. So, I went ahead and it started right up (just like last time). I really wanted to check the fuel pressure so I spent most of the day trying to acquire a guage that would work. I took the cap to my local ACE hardware and found that the only bolt that would fit was a 7/16-20. None of the metric would work. I bought a bolt so I would have something I can check connections with without trying to hook it up to the car. I went back to my HF fuel pressure tester that I hadn't taken back yet and sure enough, the GM schrader connection screwed right on. So, I took that out to the car and attempted to connect it. The problem was that the valve/seal on the connector were too shallow and I couldn't get it far enough on the test port to catch the threads. So, I gave up on that and took it back to HF. In the end, I had the solution in my garage already in the form of the HF AC service kit (item# 92649). The low pressure side has the correct pressure range and the fitting was a lot deeper and caught the threads and made a good seal. I also connected the yellow service line to the gauge assembly and put the other end in a gas container. It worked like a champ (pressures were to spec) and you just turn the service knob and the pressure is released through the yellow service line into the gas can. Obviously, I am not going to be using this for AC service but it will only cost me $40ish dollars to replace. I attached some pics... Another thing I found out in this is that the fuel pump doesn't necessary activate when you turn the key to the ON position. The relay clicks but it appears if there is sufficient full pressure, the pump doesn't actually come on. After sitting overnight, I put the current tester in and there was a very brief current applied when I moved to the ON position and then 0. When I started, the current flowed. Perhaps I should have known this already but I was under the assumption that when you turn the key to the ON position, the fuel pump activates. This would explain why I didn't hear a pump when I installed the other pump and had my wife turn the key to the ON position. It has been running well the last couple of days so I am hoping this one will stick.

Well, it looks like I was somewhat prophetic about the fuel pump. The car ran the day I changed the fuel pump as well as the next day but would not start (cranked fine) after sitting for 4 days. Is it possible that there is something with the car that is killing the fuel pumps? I had some time to do the following today: 1. Changed fuel filter. I was going to do this last week before replacing the fuel pump but gave up on it. The car lives in a 1 car garage and room was limited which made getting under the car difficult and I wanted to get the fuel pump in. This time I pushed it out on the driveway which made it a little bit easier to get it up on stands. I put up a portable canopy and a fan under the car so it actually wasn't too bad even though it is in the mid/hi 90s by 0900 here in Tucson. It is just a good thing my arms aren't any shorter or I don't think I would have been able to reach the filter through the space over the coolant lines. 2. I got a current tester that you can plug into the fuse location to check circuits. I activated the fuel pump using the durametric software and it showed around 24 amps. This definitely doesn't look right. 3. Pulled the fuel pump out to see if it was blocked but there wasn't anything on the screen and I could blow air through the lines. I checked the resistance across the terminals to the motor and showed 0.002 Ohms and the continuity buzzer went off. So, that would correlate with the large amp draw. 4. I also bought the larger fuel pressure test kit at Harbor Freight. However, none of the fittings seemed to match up. I had read that the connector on the rail is M14x1.5 which the kit has a 14mmx1.5 female fitting but the one on the rail seems to be more like 10mmx1.25 or 1.5. I will have to research that one some more. 5. I bought some HEET fuel anti-freeze and threw a few ounces in the tank. Not that it gets cold here in Tucson but I think I read a post from Loren that it works well for water contamination. I probably should have taken a good look at the gas out of the filter to confirm if that is an issue but I figured I would give it a go for good measure. I guess my next step is to find a fuel pressure tester and see if Pelican will replace the pump. Standby for more...

Just wanted to add my recent experience to the no start database. The car: 2000 996 C2 w/83k miles which I have owned since 06/65k miles. Not my daily driver. A couple of weeks ago, I went to start the car and it cranked fine but didn't start the first try. It started the second go and ran fine the rest of the day. Two weeks later, I went to start the car and again, it cranked but wouldn't start. Second try, same...third, same and so on. I ran the codes with a generic OBDII scanner and had a couple of O2 temp codes that show up occasionally but nothing to indicate a starting problem. Here are some of the things I did to troubleshoot: 1. I checked the fuel pump relay and it tested good and the car wouldn't start with the fuel pump connections jumped. 2. Reseated the fuel pump electrical connection, still no luck. 3. Tried to find a fuel pressure tester but the local stores didn't have the right connector. 4. Broke down and bought the Durametric tool (thought about getting it for a long time but now I had a good excuse). I had read so many posts about crank position sensor problems, etc and I wanted to make sure I could see what is going on. 5. Ran the Durametric and had some codes thrown from when I was troubleshooting, reset, and finally got an immobilizer code with a 58 alarm code. I can't remember the exact wording but it was something to the effect of 'tank pump failed to engage even though the relay was energized'. 6. Bought new fuel pump, seal, and ring and installed. 7. Started first try. Some take-aways from this for me are: 1. The securing ring over the top of the fuel pump interface on the top of the tank is a pain to get off. I am glad I ordered a new one since I destroyed the old one in the process of taking it off. 2. I don't know if my new pump is especially quiet or not but I could not hear it when the key was put to the ON position or after the car started. Made me nervous the first time we went to start the car. 3. The Durametric software is impressive to say the least. 100x more useful than just some OBDII software. I have read posts of people putting in new pumps and having them fail fairly soon so I will keep my fingers crossed. Hopefully, I won't have to update this!