dr914jr

:wacko: "Removing the engine"? I'm sorry but I think you might have misunderstood what I'm saying. You definitely don't need to remove the engine. That would be a bunch of effort with no return. If you really want to take the engine out for kicks or something than a Bentley manual is a great reference guide but you should definitely leave the engine in for this job.

A flashing CEL is usually an indication that the converters are going to be damaged if you continue to drive. I've only seen this once and it was on a 00 996 as the cylinder wall failed. The clown car plume of smoke coming from 1 tailpipe is also a fair indication that something may be amiss.

Usually when a modern pump fails you'll notice a distinctive drop off in top end power as the pump begins to loose pressure. If the pump fails completely than you definitely would not be able to simply restart the car and drive off as if nothing happened.

I don't get it? :unsure: Please expound.

Hi,

today when i was driving, my car just turned off. Without so much as a warning, the car simply turned off (the radio was still working after this happened). All i had to do was restart the car and it seemed fine after that, no engine light. Now has this happened to anyone else and do you think it would be a serious problem?

thanks :D

I think you are seeing the beginnings of a mass airflow sensor failure. Only time will tell.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/9...9-05/305-02.php

Here is a diagram that shows the seal's location. This should prove to be a pretty simple job if you have a lift but if you plan on working on the ground I think you're in for a real treat ;) . The job isn't very technically challenging but this area is very tight in a tip car.

Just try the Sprint Booster, then you can have a "qualified opinion" on the subject. They have a complete 30-day money back guarantee. Keep the original box and all the paperwork and return it. Nothing to lose. Installation is very easy, and only takes about 10 minutes. All the work is done under the dash near the steering column. I have driven my car for the past 3 years without it, and I could immediately tell the difference in the acceleration response. By the way, scientists are now finding that "snake oil" has very unique medicinal properties and can save lives as an anticoagulant and a nerve blocking agent in paralysis.

I think Wwest's entire position is that the SB may actually be harming the drive train. In my book that is something to loose. He never said that the driver wouldn't perceive increased acceleration. He simply questions that the possible risks might outweigh the perceived benefits.

Hi Bill!

:)

Without a doubt one of my favorite things about Renntech is that everyone is as civilized as a bunch of middle aged guys can be without the wives around to keep things in line. That being said, every once in a great while it's rejuvenating to know that people can still have such passion for these beautiful cars. Those of us that deal with them on a daily basis for a living often loose sight of just how much a Porsche means to its owner. Sorry for the interruption gentlemen. Game on! :cheers:

That was pretty sick! I wish you had bought a fighter jet. B)

I failed to mention that you may just be seeing a bit of extra fuel on startup. Do you have a CEL?

I'd really suggest that if the car is smoking on startup or ever you may have an issue. On earlier air cooled engines all kinds of things could cause smoking. Everything from worn valve guides to oil on the heat exchangers. With a modern Porsche engine if you're seeing any smoke you've got a powerful indicator that you need to address an issue. The most common culprit would be the AOS but it could also be coolant leaking into the combustion chamber.

That's great Kristian.Seven hours is a great time for that job on the ground. Dont it feel good to save a wad of cash once in a while. :wrench:

I wish a standard answer existed. Some of these cars are just waiting to ruin your day and some are trouble free forever. The only real expensive repairs that are common would be clutch, tires, and DME issues. Brake rotors are a bit pricey too but not 3k pricey. Really the only things that go wrong with the 996 aren't terribly expensive unless you have an engine failure. I've had a 996 engine fail as I was completing its 60k service so 50k doesn't mean the engine is solid. I think an aftermarket warranty is a bit of a must for anyone buying an early 996 or 986 since an out of pocket 12k engine replacement will definitely ruin your fun. Best of luck with the search! :)

I really like Loren's "chewed wire" idea. I think you should forget looking under the car and begin looking on top of the engine. I see that you first posted the issue in February. That's definitely prime rodent strike season. Even if that's not the issue you should always open up and inspect the engine compartment at least every six months. You might be surprised by what you find.

Sorry for the belated response. Ys that # is good for the 00 as well.

I'm not sure if it's the same in a 00. I'll post in the morning.

In some cases, the floater arm on the pump unit will get stuck behind a fuel line inside the tank, especially after a fuel pump replacement.

I have seen this same issue many times. I actually did it to myself once.

Are you saying the starter wont even turn the engine? If that's what you're saying than the engine probably agrees with Jake.

I'm very sorry that it turned out to be an expensive fix but hopefully this will help make people more vigilant about moisture damage. At the first hint of water in the passenger compartment we should all make it our life's mission to track it down and correct the issue. I cant even begin to comprehend the amount of money Porsche has made off the unwitting owners of leaking Boxsters. :cursing:

If you can get the engine compartment open you can attach a battery or jump battery to you positive jump start terminal (see owners manual for location) and it will give you enough power to pop your hood. :D

There are a plethora of threads here if you do a search on "emergency latch release cable". The engine compartment release cable is MUCH easier to access than the one under the wheel well for the hood (provided it is located where it is supposed to be :huh: >)

Good luck

That was much better advice. Great thinking. :notworthy:

Emergency hood release is inside the R front wheel well. You'll need to remove the plastic lining to access the cable. As for the noise all I can guess would be that something was pushing the seat adjustment button. Any foreign objects sitting in that area?

Can you feel more vibration than before the mount had started to go? Just curious as to how this method stands up to a replacment part.

I think a great place to start would be to have a friend sit in the seat while you hit the car with the hose. Eventually they should be able to pinpoint the location of the leak.

You should probably ask him to inspect the joint in question carefully before reinstalling it. Often when the boot fails the grease is lost and the joint soon follows.

Jake seems like he's pretty well vested in the whole M9X fix-up business. He runs a business. He needs to make $. That's fine. But very, very few people know him. Only the fanatics (us). And it'll be a long while if ever whether his fixes are any more reliable than the original engine or a reman engine touched only by Porsche factory.

2002 C4S

47K miles (replaced at 13K)

Zero

But I can't say whether I have a reman engine or a new original because the serial number on my engine doesn't have the reported typical sequence of numbers/letters. I think people have reported that reman engines have an "AT" or something, but IIRC mine does not. I'll have to look and even if it didn't, no one knows for sure what the reman program is all about... only Porsche. Again, typical factory stuff shrouded in uncertainy and mystery. :D

All I know is Ray S from Rennlist was very helpful in getting some of my records through his contacts and it's reported in Porsche's system that my engine was replaced under the original factory warranty. I don't know why it was replaced (IMS? RMS? Both?).

In all my readings on the forums to date, I have never heard of someone posting directly their experiences of a reman engine failing. Very unscientific research, but it's something.

Edit - I know for sure it's not the original because my engine does not have the cosmo-gunk on it (plus records)

I know and have met Jake. He has a phenomenal reputation in the air cooled world and is actually quite well known outside this watery circle. I suspect that before long he'll be well loved and trusted here as well.