dr914jr

Sorry to be rude and not think to offer the same but I was sleepy. -_-

In my experience the front mount is almost always the culprit in the Boxster. The quickest way to tell is to remove the access plate behind the seats so the front of the engine can be observed while driving. Have a friend drive the car while you observe the movement of the engine during shifts. If the mount is bad you'll know immediately unless it has just begun to fail. It seems like people don't look into fixing the mount until it's completely destroyed beyond all belief so I suspect you'll see allot of movement. If it is completely cooked than the entire engine will jump up several inches as the car is shifted :drive: .

If you had a copy of the PET you could do a VIN specific equipment search.

I use the rear of the engine as a jack point on a fairly regular basis. I've also seen a guy use the sump cover and subsequently bust through the cover :o . To jack the car up without doing damage to the car or yourself you only need three things. You'll need a jack, a small section of 2x4, and some common sense.

Looks like a vacuum leak and those codes are often the precursor to a failed AOS or its boot. Since you've already replaced the AOS I'd clear the faults and wait to see if they return. If they do you may need to preform a smoke test. Do you know anyone with a smoke machine?

That's great! You just never know these days who the next poor guy to replace his engine will be. :(

Hello All

I lie in Gloucestershire, UK and I have joined the white smoke club with my 996 C2 2002 TIP. Same symptoms as the others in the various threads here. Occasional white smoke on start-up after hard use only.

My question is this. I have been quoted approx 5 hours labour for the replacement of the Air Oil separator, plus the cost of the part, from an independent expert usually v trustworthy.

Has anyone else had the AOS replaced, and what were your labour charges/hours if so?

Any help welcome.

Five hours is more than reasonable epically considering the fact that you drive a TIP. I have a feeling that once the job is complete he'll wish he'd charged 6. The manual has way more room and really can be done quite easily but a TIP is a nightmare.

I'd just like to say the term "coolant combustion" is the most awesome thing I've seen on the web all day. :lol:

You should really have the system pressure tested with the plugs removed. Than you'll be able to smell the coolant at the plug hole. If it's not in the combustion chamber than you'll probably find an external leak while the system is under pressure.

It's difficult to say without hearing the car in person but I'd say you need to check the oil for engine goodie. Drain the oil through a paint strainer so you can study any debris that may be present. Then remove the sump cover from the bottom of the engine to investigate further should you feel the need. Once you have removed the cover you'll be able to see the sludge that has built up on it and check for metal fragments. You'll also be able to see the bottom end. I don't want to freak you out but it definitely sounds like it could be deep and nasty. It could just be something stupid but going straight to the oil will tell you how serious the issue is immediately and may help put your mind at ease.

Sounds like a transmission mount. They don't fail in 996s very often but I've been hearing of the issue more and more frequently. Unfortunately the best way to check is with a visual inspection. :eek:

Get someone with durametric software to monitor the o2 values as you drive. That's about the best way to see if you're running lean. However I sure do think that would cause a CEL but it's entirely passable that you're just on the limit.

Do you get any smoke out of the tailpipes at startup or while driving (a common effect of a bad AOS)? If you don't you could probably go a little longer without changing it and without hurting anything. But my recommendation is to determine for sure that there is a leak and replace it ASAP; a leak will only get bigger. $665 actually doesn't sound bad... you could DIY it for cheaper too as an option. Also even though you are low miles, if it's the original it's 9 years old there have been some updates/improvments to the AOS since then.

good luck,

Larez2

I agree that $665 isn't crazy but I'm sure you could finad a reputable indy in Chicago. They will warranty the work and probably save you a couple of hundred bucks in the process (mmm, Tire money). As soon as the guy claimed that the AOS failure was " VERY uncommon" you should proceed carefully. If that statement was made by a Porsche technician or service writer you know immediately that he's blowing more smoke than your exhaust is going to in the next month or so. I say track down a good independent and have him offer his opinion on the OAS.

One of the best investments I have made. But I have them on CD, not hard copy. Got them a couple of years ago, and received some updates. Look for Porschelibrarian. He is your friend for these manuals.

Where did you come by the CD if you don't mind me asking?

Evolution claims 12hp on a 2002 986 S but after installing several I'd say that's not realistic. But the sound is AWESOME! The stock Boxster is already considerably louder than the 996 but the EVO intake makes them scream like a banshee. Even without any gains at all for me personally the sound is worth the money and a few hours of your time. I would suggest that you hear one before you buy it as I'm sure some folks probably think the noise is obnoxious.

I would imagine the light is a self test much like the ABS system. Evidently it's unsafe to operate the 996 at highway speeds without the spoiler as per the owners manual. Probably some funky aerodynamic shenanigans at high speeds. I need to get me some some book learnin about "funky aerodynamic shenanigans" to know for sure. :blink:

I just replaced mine about a month ago. None of the removed packs had any visible damage but the boots were looking a bit tattered. I thought they might arc to the engine case. After replacing the packs I could definitely see that the idle was considerably smoother. I'd say this project is cheap and easy peace of mind.

Zip ties are another common fix too. As long as the clips are always removed and installed correctly they should function perfectly. I think people just get frustrated when they remove the clips and end up braking them. :cursing:

If it sounds like a vacuum cleaner than it's probably the secondary air injection pump. Otherwise remove the access panel behind the seats so you can gain access to the poly-rib belt. Then use a stethoscope or length of hose to listen to all of the pulleys individually. If it's not the air pump or a pulley than you may have a failing water pump. At any rate isolating the sound is paramount.

Are you looking for#21 in this diagram? http://www.autoatlanta.com/model/996-99-05/811-13.htm I know exactly what part you're referring to if you had a Boxster but don't remember ever seeing them in a 996.

Of course you can! I think a friendly flogging is instrumental learning to maintain your car.

Nice! Just the old loose nut behind the steering wheel. :drive:

If it's a "click" than it's most certainly a relay. Go under the drivers dash and feel each of the relays as you listen to the click. Once you've identified the relay you can begin troubleshooting.

I'll bet it blows every time you step on the brakes hard! The inner cage of your four spoke (99 C2) steering wheel isolates the ground for the horn. This pad has a rubber bushing at each of its four corners and over time they separate from the cage. Once the cage comes in contact with a ground the circuit is completed and the horn will blow. The symptom is usually presented when the brakes are applied and the cage is pulled forward. Fortunately its an easy fix and its cheap. All you need to do is use a torx bit to remove the two bolts located on the back side of the steering wheel. They secure the airbag. As soon as the pad is removed you'll see the cage and 4 bolts that hold it in place (14s I think). Remove the bolts drop in the new unit and you're done. I think the parts cost like $80(993 347 088 01) and the entire process will take less than 20 minuets.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before you remove the airbag :wacko: and don't reconnect the battery until the job is complete or you'll need to reset the airbag light. You should also insure that that you know your radio code so you don't go without tunes for a couple of days.

Moisture under the seats has been a huge issue for cabs. and the 986.

Is the car a cabriolet?