dr914jr

"You do a compression test with the engine up on TDC for given cylinder"

I think you're confusing a leak down test with a compression test. How can you test compression with a stationary piston? :huh:

Can you consolidate some of the material and take a picture of it on white sheet of paper. I think if we could see the material we may be better able to offer advice.

i'm going to get a leak down test that should tell more, but i don't see how a collapsed lifter could give low compression. there is no noise except at idle which i believe is just the misfire sound thru the exhaust. thanks for your help i'm really surprised that a $90k car can't make 40k miles without a tear down.

If the intake valve is unable to open fully due to a collapsed lifter the compression will be low. I tried to compress a vacuum once, my mom was upset.

Thanks for the update :)

I noticed a lot of people commenting about the hours.. but I'm not sure all of them noticed it was a C4 and requires a "tad" more effort :)

B

Ya, I failed to catch that Brad. The only all wheel I've ever done was an 89 1/2. OMG that was one of the most cobbled together automobiles I've ever seen. I think Porsche threw that thing together to stir the market up for the 964. I got a kick out of the shift lever floating on the drive shaft with a couple of adjustment rods holding it together. It was a crusty driver from up north and everything was corroded over. It was no fun at all. :(

Have you noticed prominent lifter noise. A leak down test will tell you for sure.

I also own a 99 996 and can say it has been a pleasure. Car has only 40k but I've had very few issues other than normal maintenance in the 5 years I have owned it. For any used Porsche, I would highly recommend a PPI be done by a reputable mechanic - it is a worthwhile investment. Also, if you have service records from the PO that is certainly a good thing. Bast of luck.

I couldn't agree more. A PPI is the bes money a perspective buyer can spend.

The Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards only applies to manufactures.

After the sale, equipment requirements are determined by, typically, your state authority. For Delaware, you need to look at the Delaware Code Title 21, Chapter 43, § 4339 (a) "Front clearance lamps and those marker lamps and reflectors mounted on the front or on the side near the front of a vehicle shall display or reflect an amber color. "

So as long as the light emitted is yellow your fine. At least in Delaware.

I'd say that males good sense. If that wasn't the case all cops could afford to cruse around in helicopters with all the added revenue.

Thanks Brad..DR914.

Easy now. That title is taken by a well know fellow in Hotlanta :) I claim to know nothing. Easier coming off as dumb than smart :)

B

I'm just doing my best to follow in the masters footsteps. ;) I had no idea one person could store so much Porsche knowledge but I'm happy he's willing to share it.

Sorry I was just kidding. I'm on my second stock flywheel.

Hell, Now I'm confused as well. I probably have more miles on my car than anyone here and I've never had a rattle at all. Completly regardless of what I do with the clutch pedal.

Noise is friction! Friction is bad, especially if it's coming from the crank. The only way a lightened flywheel would cause noise is if it has thrown the crank's balance off. If it is the flywheel and not the throwout bearing remove the flywheel asap. However my moneys still on the T.O.B. as this is by far the most common cause of "transmission noise".

My 99 has 140k on the original engine with no major issues to date. Lots of maintenance and several clutches but nothing out of the ordinary. I half expect every morning to fire up the beast and see a plume of steam from one of my exhaust tips billow into the heavens. But the days and miles keep ticking by completely uneventful. :D

If it's coming from the bell housing it's probably a throwout bearing. Dose it vary with RPM or is it constant?

So the problem still exists or the system was never throughly cleaned. One way or the other the car needs to go back to the indy. I'd clean the emulsification out of the oil filler tube and tell the shop to flush the hell out of the system again. Let us know how it turns out.

Thanks for the info gents.

A leak test was done on the coolant system which apparently checked out ok.

Unlikely to have filled oil in coolant, this indy takes care of 911's frequently.

Question, can the oil in the coolant system just sit there, or should I be trying to flush the system?

The oil in the cooling system should circulate to some extent and eventually make it's way to the highest point in the system(the re savor).

I know this sounds crazy but I was first told this by a very knowledgeable factory tech. with 25 years of Porsche experience.

Drain the cooling system and fill it with distilled water and about a cup a cup of Shout detergent. Elevate the rear end of the car with a floor jack and let it reach operating temperature then drain the system. Repeat this two or three more times or until you're satisfied that the majority of the oil has been removed. Then use only distilled water to flush the system of soap. Finally fill and bleed the cooling system. If you find that after 3 runs of the Shout you still have loads of oink in the system than you clearly have a serious problem.

I know it's unorthodox but I've done it and it works like a charm. I still service several of the late cars I've done this with and after years they still show no ill effects from the soap. Feel free to flame away but remember I love you guys. :renntech:

The thing to do that would tell you definitively would be a leak down or or cooling system pressure test. I once had an incident where someone had mistakenly filled the cooling system with oil.(It was a Boxster so that was a slightly easier mistake to make). Could that have happened?

I've had mine for years without any issues. This software has saved me a fortune.

I think you're out of luck for an easy removal. I assume the car is a manual. If that's the case I'd say drive the hell out of it. Worse case scenario the plastic will eventually prevent a slider assembly from correctly engaging one of the gear sets. At that point you'll need to remove the transmission and brake it down to remove the now melted, crushed, moralized cap. That being said, I'd be willing to bet money if the cap was small enough to fit down the filler hole you'll be able to drive the car to the ends of the earth with no ill effects. Just my 2 cents.

My fuel pump failed in the exact same way less than two months ago. I'm glad you only have 3 gallons of fuel. I had the burning privilege of getting elbow deep in 11 gallons myself. I've replaced many 996/986 fuel pumps but mine was unbelievably stubborn. Don't be surprised if it's VERY stuck should it turn out to be the problem.

Wow,Thats a good deal! It's nice to see the threat of epoxy brings out the best in people.

The price is $34.14 (99610725403) and you can can have it in the car in less than two hours. For the love of all that's good and and true in the world please don't JB weld the tube back together! Every time you JB weld a 996 a German angel looses its wings. :(

Thanks, My first concern was honestly to ensure the build quality was on par with that of the car. It means allot to me that none of the boxes have been returned "knock on wood". My goal was to add one sub woofer so I still had a very discrete spot to install the amp. The space just isn't big enough to offer the correct cubic volume for two speakers while still providing a sealed compartment for the amp. I thought the system might require a second woofer but after I installed the prototype it was very apparent that one eight I is more than adequate for my personal tastes. I've also created some jigs that have allowed me to reduce the boxe's weight by 4 pounds.

I'm currently working on a Boxster box that will replace the storage area behind the headrests. I plan on using a pair of 6in subs and a single concealed amp all will be mounted in the box. It's a much more complicated design so it will probably take another couple of months to perfect but I'm very excited. I'll post pictures as soon as the first working prototype is complete.

I have the k&n and it sounds great. Of all the mods I've done it was the most sensation for the money. Power increase was barley noticeable but the sound is phenomenal.

Congratulations on the purchase! It's great to see that so many new people are growing to love these cars. :welcome:

I'd like to see what kind of alternator they installed on that car. :lol: